Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
North Chasm View Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 
A Midsummer's Night Dream T 
Air Guitar T 
Air Voyage T 
Apparition, The T 
Black Penny 
Black Sheep, The T 
Bloodsport T 
Colorado Welcome Party T 
Cruise, The T 
Diagonal, The T 
Dylan Wall T 
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 
Free Nose, The T 
Goss-Logan T 
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 
Highway 61 Revisited T 
Journey Home T 
Kachina Wings T 
Leisure Climb T 
Movable Stoned Voyage T 
Moveable Feast T 
Musical Partners T 
Qualgeist T 
Scenic Cruise, The T 
Stoned Oven T 
Straight Out Da Projects T 
Trilogy  T 
Twisted T 
Walk of Shame T 
White Devil TR 

The Apparition 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: Lazar, Wheeler, Lomme, Steiss
Page Views: 3,574
Submitted By: slevin on Sep 18, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

2016 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


For the overall quality of stone, brilliant face climbing, and little if any munge, I would put Apparition near the top of the list of the best climbs I have done in the Black.

There was an excellent miniguide in Rock & Ice No. 81 with a story about the FA of this route and an adequate topo. According to this: three hundred feet below the second Cruise Gully rappel, at the start of the traverse to Journey Home, begin the route at the second tree. It may be a little confusing to sniff out the start of the route.

P1: Climb unprotected 5.8 to a R-facing corner with some 5.9, to a ledge. A long pitch.

P2: Traverse up and right in an open book, then up and left to a bolt. Traverse straight left (5.10+) past 2 more bolts to a semi-hanging belay at 2 bolts (strangely, this anchor is just above a nice little stance). This is a patently dangerous pitch to follow; the second may want to practice the 5.10 moves still clipped into the first bolt, then unclip to follow- if you blow it you could swing a long ways and get hurt. Variation: Andy Donson climbed straight up from the belay (5.11c R or X) instead of doing the 5.10+ traverse, skipped the 2nd belay and joined the 3rd pitch.

P3: Move a little left, then climb a continuous stretch of difficult face past 4 bolts through a bulge, and punch it to the belay. Brilliant climbing, 5.12b. There is a small flake which you crank on that may snap on somebody.

P4: The crux pitch. Climb a difficult (5.12a) R-facing corner with poor pro (RPs, TCUs) past a bolt, then follow the bolts through some of the best face climbing in the canyon, very spicy 5.12 b or c. The crux is a tenuous standup move on a tiny crystal, using a shallow, rounded crescent hold with your left hand and not much else. A long pitch ending at a nice ledge. Bolted on the lead. Several very good climbers have backed down from this lead due to the fall potential from the crux.

P5: Climb up, clip a bolt, then follow a corner to 2 more bolts protecting some 5.11- face moves. Perhaps a little runout. Belay over a small roof.

P6: Move out and right with little gear, then up (5.10+) to a belay below the obvious, overhanging corner capped by a massive roof.

P7: Climb up and into the corner, then pull a hard move (5.11b or c). At the top of the corner head straight left to an amazing belay on the arete (2 bolts). This is a wild pitch.

P8: A mediocre pitch leads to the terrace.

P9: (Optional) Climb a vague 5.11 hand crack to the only tree on the rim. Better to just walk left and solo off.

I would recommend a stiff edging shoe for this climb. Also, catch it in the shade or when temperatures are crisp- it would be a total grease-fest if you tried it otherwise. Plan on 6 to 8 hours.


One set RPs, one set Wireds, doubles TCUs .5 to 2 Camalot, one 3 Camalot. Haul line. All anchors are fixed and bomber, and it is possible to rappel the entire route. Expect runout climbing on anything from 5.8 to 5.12 terrain.

Comments on The Apparition Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!