The Apparition  5.12b R

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Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, Grade IV Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Lazar, Wheeler, Lomme, Steiss Submitted By:  Steve Levin on Sep 18, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

For the overall quality of stone, brilliant face climbing, and little if any munge, I would put Apparition near the top of the list of the best climbs I have done in the Black.

There was an excellent miniguide in Rock & Ice No. 81 with a story about the FA of this route and an adequate topo. According to this: three hundred feet below the second Cruise Gully rappel, at the start of the traverse to Journey Home, begin the route at the second tree. It may be a little confusing to sniff out the start of the route.

P1: Climb unprotected 5.8 to a R-facing corner with some 5.9, to a ledge. A long pitch.

P2: Traverse up and right in an open book, then up and left to a bolt. Traverse straight left (5.10+) past 2 more bolts to a semi-hanging belay at 2 bolts (strangely, this anchor is just above a nice little stance). This is a patently dangerous pitch to follow; the second may want to practice the 5.10 moves still clipped into the first bolt, then unclip to follow- if you blow it you could swing a long ways and get hurt. Variation: Andy Donson climbed straight up from the belay (5.11c R or X) instead of doing the 5.10+ traverse, skipped the 2nd belay and joined the 3rd pitch.

P3: Move a little left, then climb a continuous stretch of difficult face past 4 bolts through a bulge, and punch it to the belay. Brilliant climbing, 5.12b. There is a small flake which you crank on that may snap on somebody.

P4: The crux pitch. Climb a difficult (5.12a) R-facing corner with poor pro (RPs, TCUs) past a bolt, then follow the bolts through some of the best face climbing in the canyon, very spicy 5.12 b or c. The crux is a tenuous standup move on a tiny crystal, using a shallow, rounded crescent hold with your left hand and not much else. A long pitch ending at a nice ledge. Bolted on the lead. Several very good climbers have backed down from this lead due to the fall potential from the crux.

P5: Climb up, clip a bolt, then follow a corner to 2 more bolts protecting some 5.11- face moves. Perhaps a little runout. Belay over a small roof.

P6: Move out and right with little gear, then up (5.10+) to a belay below the obvious, overhanging corner capped by a massive roof.

P7: Climb up and into the corner, then pull a hard move (5.11b or c). At the top of the corner head straight left to an amazing belay on the arete (2 bolts). This is a wild pitch.

P8: A mediocre pitch leads to the terrace.

P9: (Optional) Climb a vague 5.11 hand crack to the only tree on the rim. Better to just walk left and solo off.

I would recommend a stiff edging shoe for this climb. Also, catch it in the shade or when temperatures are crisp- it would be a total grease-fest if you tried it otherwise. Plan on 6 to 8 hours.

Protection 

One set RPs, one set Wireds, doubles TCUs .5 to 2 Camalot, one 3 Camalot. Haul line. All anchors are fixed and bomber, and it is possible to rappel the entire route. Expect runout climbing on anything from 5.8 to 5.12 terrain.