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North Chasm View Wall
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A Midsummer's Night Dream 
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Qualgeist 
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Stand Up Comic 
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Unsorted Routes:

The Apparition 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b R

   
Type: Trad, 9 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lazar, Wheeler, Lomme, Steiss
Page Views: 2,696
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Sep 18, 2001
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Description 

For the overall quality of stone, brilliant face climbing, and little if any munge, I would put Apparition near the top of the list of the best climbs I have done in the Black.

There was an excellent miniguide in Rock & Ice No. 81 with a story about the FA of this route and an adequate topo. According to this: three hundred feet below the second Cruise Gully rappel, at the start of the traverse to Journey Home, begin the route at the second tree. It may be a little confusing to sniff out the start of the route.

P1: Climb unprotected 5.8 to a R-facing corner with some 5.9, to a ledge. A long pitch.

P2: Traverse up and right in an open book, then up and left to a bolt. Traverse straight left (5.10+) past 2 more bolts to a semi-hanging belay at 2 bolts (strangely, this anchor is just above a nice little stance). This is a patently dangerous pitch to follow; the second may want to practice the 5.10 moves still clipped into the first bolt, then unclip to follow- if you blow it you could swing a long ways and get hurt. Variation: Andy Donson climbed straight up from the belay (5.11c R or X) instead of doing the 5.10+ traverse, skipped the 2nd belay and joined the 3rd pitch.

P3: Move a little left, then climb a continuous stretch of difficult face past 4 bolts through a bulge, and punch it to the belay. Brilliant climbing, 5.12b. There is a small flake which you crank on that may snap on somebody.

P4: The crux pitch. Climb a difficult (5.12a) R-facing corner with poor pro (RPs, TCUs) past a bolt, then follow the bolts through some of the best face climbing in the canyon, very spicy 5.12 b or c. The crux is a tenuous standup move on a tiny crystal, using a shallow, rounded crescent hold with your left hand and not much else. A long pitch ending at a nice ledge. Bolted on the lead. Several very good climbers have backed down from this lead due to the fall potential from the crux.

P5: Climb up, clip a bolt, then follow a corner to 2 more bolts protecting some 5.11- face moves. Perhaps a little runout. Belay over a small roof.

P6: Move out and right with little gear, then up (5.10+) to a belay below the obvious, overhanging corner capped by a massive roof.

P7: Climb up and into the corner, then pull a hard move (5.11b or c). At the top of the corner head straight left to an amazing belay on the arete (2 bolts). This is a wild pitch.

P8: A mediocre pitch leads to the terrace.

P9: (Optional) Climb a vague 5.11 hand crack to the only tree on the rim. Better to just walk left and solo off.

I would recommend a stiff edging shoe for this climb. Also, catch it in the shade or when temperatures are crisp- it would be a total grease-fest if you tried it otherwise. Plan on 6 to 8 hours.


Protection 

One set RPs, one set Wireds, doubles TCUs .5 to 2 Camalot, one 3 Camalot. Haul line. All anchors are fixed and bomber, and it is possible to rappel the entire route. Expect runout climbing on anything from 5.8 to 5.12 terrain.



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