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 ADVANCED
The Black Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Farm, The T 
Cannonball Corner T 
Cary Granite T 
Coffee Achievers T 
Emerald Highway, The T 
Escape Route T 
Espresso T 
Good Evans T 
Harry Cary T 
High Variance T 
Old Rappel Route T 
Parallel Universe T 
Phil-a-Guster T 
Rainbow Highway T 
Road Warrior T 
Rusty Dagger, The T 
Sinners On Sunday T 
Undertow T 
Undertow (free) T 
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Ant Farm 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: J. Finkelstein, B. Collett, June, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Jul 11, 2010

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The route.

Description 

The climbing on this route is really quite nice. If it were longer, it would be a really good route.

1) Climb the dihedral listed below, climb through the roof and belay on a nice ledge on the left after 130 feet. 10+.

2) Step right from the ledge climb up a thin flake placing some small gear and traverse right into features leading up into a left-leaning crack. Follow that up to a more broken area and take the first crack system on the right. Run the rope out an belay. 5.10R.

3) Climb up the most fun looking ground above the belay (there are some pleasant bits), ending on a grassy ledge system. 5.8.
To exit, scramble up and right to the top of the Black Wall.

Location 

This route is located on the far right side of the Black Wall. Look for the furthest right dihedral that runs into a small roof at 80 feet.

Protection 

Standard rack including RPs and very small cams.


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By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jul 12, 2010

Where is the route in relation of the others???