Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Chris Miller and Pete Paredes, August 2001
Page Views: 969 total · 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description Suggest change

Boulder up a left-slanting rail to a high first bolt and then work up and right on crimpy edges (crux) to snag a jug at the 3rd bolt. From here you have two choices: 1) the original finish - which works up featured rock, clips the last bolt up and left of the arete and then mantles onto the south face where a short bit of face climbing leads to anchors. 2) a newer direct finish - from the third bolt continue straight up, clipping a bolt on the right side of the arete and finish up with the crux of The Longest Yard.

A fun, bouldery route which is even better with the newer direct finish, but unfortunately the fun is over all too soon.

Location Suggest change

Located on the far-left side of the east face, this is actually on the southeast corner of the formation and starts behind a small tree.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts, chain anchors

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Photos

Sloping Beauty (5.10b), The Angry Inch (5.10c) and The Longest Yard (5.10a) from left to right.
Sloping Beauty (5.10b), The Angry Inch (5.10c)…
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