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R Crags (Two Finger Canyon)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Touch of Sushi . T 
Afternoon Tea. 5.7-R T,S 
Anglo/Japanese Route, The T 
Bon Voyage T 
Color of Spring T 
Day of the Litheon., The T 
Eccentric Spiderman T 
Escape, The T 
Firth of Forth T 
Focus Pocus T 
Gang of Four T 
Great White Fright. T 
Great White Ridge, The T 
Moonbeam T 
No Faith T 
Peenut Gallery. T,S 
PG Tips. . T,S 
Reef Sport Climb. 5.8+R S 
Solstice T 
Spidermans Day Off .5.5R T 
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The Anglo/Japanese Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Andy Ross Paul Ross (Alt leads) Shingo Ohkawa. June 25th 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: Little Chamonix on Jun 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Shingo and the rising moon


Starts a few feet left of a Taste of Sushi up another line of huecos.
P1) Up huecos trending left then back right past an overlap (bolt) then follow ramp left to double anchors. 160'5.6.
P2) Carry on up the groove/ramp then finish right past two bolts to anchor. 80'5.8.
Descent:- One can rap the route, or scramble the ledge to the right and rap A Touch of Sushi.


Two Fingers Canyon. Located at the south end of the Great White Wall.


Cams 1/2" to 2" Wires.

Photos of The Anglo/Japanese Route Slideshow Add Photo
Andy at the start
Andy at the start
Shingo on P2
Shingo on P2
Andy approching the belay
Andy approching the belay
Paul passing bolts on P2
Paul passing bolts on P2
A) The Anglo/Japanese Route 5.8 B)A Touch of Sushi...
A) The Anglo/Japanese Route 5.8 B)A Touch of Sushi...
Shingo near top of P2
Shingo near top of P2
Paul on P2
Paul on P2

Comments on The Anglo/Japanese Route Add Comment
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By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
Dec 10, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This was a really fun and wild climb. both pitches had some poor rock and some good rock but over all good rock by the swells standards. The second pitch was a lot harder than 5.8. I am not sure if holds broke off or what but the crux if you go strait up like I did it was 5.10. You could go out right and it would be a bit easier but on lead if you fall from out right you will pendulum into a bad ledge. I would not recommend it unless you are a 5.10 lead climber and then you should have some fun.
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