Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchovy Caper, The 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 
Arugula, Arugula 
Barbershop Duet 
Big Easy, The 
Boats from Cuba 
Bonnie and Clyde 
Bourbon Street 
Brendan's Bitches 
Cereal Killer 
Climb and Punishment 
Clusterphobia 
Far From Feral 
Fish Corner  
Flying Squirrel 
Green Mile 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b 
Juicy Fingers 
Maltese Falcon, The 
Maria's Variation 
Men In White Suits 
Metamorphosis 
Mister Meaner 
open project 
Rainbow 
Scene of the Crime 
Sesame Street 
Slack 
Toxic Gumbo 
White Buttress, The 

The Anchovy Caper 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 1,676
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 24, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
nicole starting up anchovy

Description 

Another nice recent addition to the area. The climbing on the slabby section is technical and thought provoking. The bottom is the crux for most (unless the trees are used for feet).

Start up the face between the trees on sidepulls and crimps till you can gain the lower angle face above. Continue following the bolts while you smear and layback your way past good flakes on the left to the top. This upper part is very fun if you like that kind of stuff.


Location 

Around the corner left of Green Mile (5.9) starting between a couple of trees.


Protection 

7 bolts to bolt anchor.



Photos of The Anchovy Caper Slideshow Add Photo
eric down low
eric down low
the line of anchovie caper
BETA PHOTO: the line of anchovie caper
Tim having fun.
Tim having fun.
nicole at the top
nicole at the top
eric tops out
eric tops out
Comments on The Anchovy Caper Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2012
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 21, 2009

FA- me, a couple years ago I think. There is an easier version that Ward finished bolting for me that continues up the corner a little to the right, than goes to the same anchor.. useful when Anchovy is wet and you want to get to the upper pitch, that is nice in it's own right. Not sure of the name we gave to it.

The clean corner just to the right, with the overhanging start, I did as a boulder problem.. no name that i can remember. You can TR it easily from the variation mentioned above

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 21, 2009

I updated the description to give you credit...

i've climbed the corner you mention, its fun and there is one high bolt, why not put one more so folks will climb it?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 22, 2009

I'll have to look at it again. Is the bolt stick clipable? I think we just were thinking we didn't want the rock there to look anymore like a pin cushion than it did already

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 22, 2009

"we didn't want the rock there to look anymore like a pin cushion than it did already"
Love it. hence why Rumney's got the best developers. Keep things under control.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 22, 2009

cant stick clip it with your average stick clip its like 20? feet up... im glad you were trying not to over bolt but its one bolt from a nice line...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

how hard is this overhanging corner you all speak of?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 23, 2009

It's been a while, but I would guess maybe V2. It is kind of highball as a boulder problem though

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I have posted the dihedral that is mentioned above as its own route now, it is entitled High Bolter, please check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Unless you're really solid at 5.8 I'd recommend stick clipping this. Moves at the bottom are very thoughtful (and yes, "bouldery" whatever the heck that actually means). Once above those moves and at the second bolt, it still has a couple interesting moves left. It's definitely a worth while climb.

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Jul 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun route, glad I decided to get on it. I found the smoothest way to do that last mantle is to get the best left hand on the sloping rail, then palm on the flat edge with your right, then mantle it through. Felt not-awkward, which is impressive for me and mantling.

By J Meagher
Nov 24, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is my favorite 5.8 by far. A good V0+ bouldery start leads to great slab climbing and an interesting "topout" sort of move to gain the 4th class slab. When I did this, I went around right and mantled onto the bulge; is it easier to go from the left or right? I would recommend a stick-clip, because the crux is close to the ground. For a 5.8, this definently deserves 4 stars

By S. Neoh
Nov 24, 2012

Two or 2.5 stars for sure though I think Maltese Falcon and Metamorphosis (both nearby) are better at 5.8/5.8+.