The Anchovy Caper 

FA- me, a couple years ago I think. There is an easier version that Ward finished bolting for me that continues up the corner a little to the right, than goes to the same anchor.. useful when Anchovy is wet and you want to get to the upper pitch, that is nice in it's own right. Not sure of the name we gave to it.

The clean corner just to the right, with the overhanging start, I did as a boulder problem.. no name that i can remember. You can TR it easily from the variation mentioned above

I updated the description to give you credit...

i've climbed the corner you mention, its fun and there is one high bolt, why not put one more so folks will climb it?

I'll have to look at it again. Is the bolt stick clipable? I think we just were thinking we didn't want the rock there to look anymore like a pin cushion than it did already

"we didn't want the rock there to look anymore like a pin cushion than it did already"
Love it. hence why Rumney's got the best developers. Keep things under control.

cant stick clip it with your average stick clip its like 20? feet up... im glad you were trying not to over bolt but its one bolt from a nice line...

how hard is this overhanging corner you all speak of?

It's been a while, but I would guess maybe V2. It is kind of highball as a boulder problem though

I have posted the dihedral that is mentioned above as its own route now, it is entitled High Bolter, please check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks.

Unless you're really solid at 5.8 I'd recommend stick clipping this. Moves at the bottom are very thoughtful (and yes, "bouldery" whatever the heck that actually means). Once above those moves and at the second bolt, it still has a couple interesting moves left. It's definitely a worth while climb.

Fun route, glad I decided to get on it. I found the smoothest way to do that last mantle is to get the best left hand on the sloping rail, then palm on the flat edge with your right, then mantle it through. Felt not-awkward, which is impressive for me and mantling.

This is my favorite 5.8 by far. A good V0+ bouldery start leads to great slab climbing and an interesting "topout" sort of move to gain the 4th class slab. When I did this, I went around right and mantled onto the bulge; is it easier to go from the left or right? I would recommend a stick-clip, because the crux is close to the ground. For a 5.8, this definently deserves 4 stars

Two or 2.5 stars for sure though I think Maltese Falcon and Metamorphosis (both nearby) are better at 5.8/5.8+.