The Amphitheater Rock Climbing
Mary plugging the crux pro
The Amphitheater is a large buttress near the north end of of Moore's Wall. The wall forms a sort of cirque, hence the name. Raise Hell to Step and Fetch get a lot of sun in cool months, while the routes to the right are cooler in summer.
The rock here has always seemed a bit different to me than other areas at Moore's. The holds are more friction dependent, and you will encounter more slopers (jugs and crimps) than at the North End or the Circus Wall. This intimidating buttress offers classics in every grade and should not be missed.
Once you have taken the left onto the powerline road, walk for a few minutes until you see a park sign on the right for the Sentinel Buttress. Continue PAST this sign on the powerline road for 5 more minutes until you get to another sign and a trail on your right. Take this right and walk up the winding trail for 10 minutes until you hit the Amphitheater. You'll hit the wall right around the start of Wailing Wall.
There are several different walls in The Amphitheater, all with different descent options. Many of the route descriptions mention descents, but some do not.
For Excellent Adventure and Wailing Wall, find a tree w/ fixed gear and do a double rope rappel.
For the routes on the main "sun wall" including Step and Fetch, scramble down to the fixed anchor directly above Quaker State. A 60m rope BARELY gets you down with stretch.
For all routes right of Step and Fetch, there are two rap stations near the top of the wall (webbing/tat). One (left one) is 100 feet above a bolted rap station that also serves as an anchor for Stab in the Dark. Farther right is a newer looking station (tree) that is directly above Shit Hook. If using the right most station, it would be difficult to get down with a single rope, since it is a ways right of the bolted station (Stab anchors).
Weather station 4.2 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Amphitheater
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Amphitheater
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Amphitheater:
High Wire 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Raise Hell 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Shit Hook 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Finger Love 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Do or Dive 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Zombie Woof 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Featured Route For The Amphitheater
Zombie Woof 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b NC
: Moore's Wall
: The Amphitheater
P1: Climb either Breaking Rocks Is Hard To Do or Stab In The Dark to their shared belay on a ledge. If you wore a helmet, it would be best to leave it here.P2: Climb the splitter 5.8ish crack up to some old, ratty looking slings. Going right is Doan's Pills, left is Zombie Woof. Go left! the first ten feet or so is probably the technical crux, but nothing about the wildly exposed roof traverse is as hard as it looks from the ground. At the end of the roof haul yourself up into the alcove a...[more] Browse More Classics in NC