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Turtle Wall
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Actual Parchments, The S 
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Director of Humor Affairs S 
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Gopherus Agassizi S 
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The Actual Parchments 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Todd Perkins, 1995
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,954
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Nov 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Casey on Actual Parchments

Description 

As with almost every other route on this wall, The Actual Parchments offers an incredibly fun challange over steep sandstone terrain with varied moves, and of course, lots of chances to fall off... This route starts with a sharp and difficult pocket-pulling boulder problem (V4 or 5) past 3 bolts to huge jugs that make this route reasonable.
I stick clipped the second bolt, which mabe a good idea due to the boulder behind you if you fall.
Rest a bit then do the final huge deadpoint to a crimp (redpoint crux V4) and enjoy easy jugs up and left to the top of Director of Humor Affairs. Fun outing on good rock.

Location 

On the left side of the Turtle Wall, this line follows the left two of the steepest routes to link up with Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a)

Protection 

Nice bolts, 7-9 depending on how many you clip. to chain anchors


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By healyc
Jan 30, 2014

One cool part about this route is the opportunity to top it out like you would a boulder problem. when you get to the chains, clip and then climb past them continuing to the top out. its not really that hard and once you're up there just untie, toss the rope over the edge and walk off. i guess if you need to clean the route then its a different story.