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Actual Parchments, The S 
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The Actual Parchments 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Todd Perkins, 1995
Season: year round
Page Views: 2,243
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Nov 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Casey on Actual Parchments

Description 

As with almost every other route on this wall, The Actual Parchments offers an incredibly fun challange over steep sandstone terrain with varied moves, and of course, lots of chances to fall off... This route starts with a sharp and difficult pocket-pulling boulder problem (V4 or 5) past 3 bolts to huge jugs that make this route reasonable.
I stick clipped the second bolt, which mabe a good idea due to the boulder behind you if you fall.
Rest a bit then do the final huge deadpoint to a crimp (redpoint crux V4) and enjoy easy jugs up and left to the top of Director of Humor Affairs. Fun outing on good rock.

Location 

On the left side of the Turtle Wall, this line follows the left two of the steepest routes to link up with Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a)

Protection 

Nice bolts, 7-9 depending on how many you clip. to chain anchors


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By healyc
Jan 30, 2014

One cool part about this route is the opportunity to top it out like you would a boulder problem. when you get to the chains, clip and then climb past them continuing to the top out. its not really that hard and once you're up there just untie, toss the rope over the edge and walk off. i guess if you need to clean the route then its a different story.
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Jan 4, 2015

Did the intermediate crimp before the pocket on the upper crux break? Looks like it was used to get the right hand to the 3 finger pocket before but it wasn't there today...
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jan 8, 2015

I tried the route for the first time a couple months ago, and the only hold I saw that was available on the upper crux for the left hand between the gaston crimp and the pocket was a sandy, twinkie looking, fragile pinch hold. It wasn't chalked or looked like it had been used like most of the rest of the route. After looking at a couple of the videos online, it does appear like a hold in that area broke, leaving the sandy pinch as the remaining option. Can't comment on whether its more/less difficult now, but its still doable.