The Acrophile is one of the largest rocks in the SSV, and it is composed of some of the best rock in the canyon. It is a moderate trad climbers paradise with over 20 crack climbs ascending the southwest face. The routes range from 75 feet to 200 feet in length. The rock gets sun midday until late afternoon. Most routes are worthy of a star or two, with an amazing three star route thrown in. Two 100' rappels or a walkoff to the south are available
The rock's namesake is a wild 5.11 roof pulled via an offwidth. There are a couple other old routes; however, most were climbed recently by B. Gillett and friends.
The Acrophile sits high on the south side of the canyon just above a large paved pulloff with some picnic tables. It is approximately 7 miles from Lyons. If you reach the upper toilets, turn around and look for the massive rock a mile down canyon.
Access is typical SSV. The river can be crossed slightly upstream during low water with a boulder hop, or waded downstream (6" to 1.5' deep)during higher flows. Once across the river one can hike up the gully to the right until it is possible to cut up the hillside to the rock (brushy and Ivy), or go straight up the buttress through a break in the cliffs above the river (loose). Once on the buttress, some wandering down onto the south slope is needed to avoid cliff bands and boulders.
This climb is the leftmost climb, which is accessed from the upper approach ledge. Start in a short finger crack (crux?) and follow gear placements in horitzonals to two bolts. The climbing near the bolts is only around 5.8, unless you avoid the big holds to the left.Descend from chains on a 2-bolt anchor.......[more]Browse More Classics in CO