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The Acrophile

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acrophobia T 
Badger Crack T 
Black Powder T 
Dead Deer Cracks T 
Iced Tea T 
Lithophyte T 
Pine Straw T 
South Slabs T,S 
Yawning Flake T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Acrophile  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Apr 17, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The Acrophile from the West.

Description 

The Acrophile is one of the largest rocks in the SSV, and it is composed of some of the best rock in the canyon. It is a moderate trad climbers paradise with over 20 crack climbs ascending the southwest face. The routes range from 75 feet to 200 feet in length. The rock gets sun midday until late afternoon. Most routes are worthy of a star or two, with an amazing three star route thrown in. Two 100' rappels or a walkoff to the south are available

The rock's namesake is a wild 5.11 roof pulled via an offwidth. There are a couple other old routes; however, most were climbed recently by B. Gillett and friends.

Getting There 

The Acrophile sits high on the south side of the canyon just above a large paved pulloff with some picnic tables. It is approximately 7 miles from Lyons. If you reach the upper toilets, turn around and look for the massive rock a mile down canyon.

Access is typical SSV. The river can be crossed slightly upstream during low water with a boulder hop, or waded downstream (6" to 1.5' deep)during higher flows. Once across the river one can hike up the gully to the right until it is possible to cut up the hillside to the rock (brushy and Ivy), or go straight up the buttress through a break in the cliffs above the river (loose). Once on the buttress, some wandering down onto the south slope is needed to avoid cliff bands and boulders.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Acrophile:
Lithophyte   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Badger Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Classics in The Acrophile

Featured Route For The Acrophile
Bert leading South Slabs, which starts in the shor...

South Slabs 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  CO : Lyons : ... : The Acrophile
This climb is the leftmost climb, which is accessed from the upper approach ledge. Start in a short finger crack (crux?) and follow gear placements in horitzonals to two bolts. The climbing near the bolts is only around 5.8, unless you avoid the big holds to the left.Descend from chains on a 2-bolt anchor.......[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for The Acrophile
Photos of The Acrophile Slideshow Add Photo
The west face and overhangs of The Acrophile. Lith...
BETA PHOTO: The west face and overhangs of The Acrophile. Lith...

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2014
How is the approach since the flood?
Any changes?