The 5.8 Crack by the Road 5.7
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vanessa minery on the 5.8 crack by the road...
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Description Yes, that's right. It's called the 5.8 Crack by the Road, but it is in fact 5.7. I can't explain it.
However this is a really fun climb. I think it's the most fun moderate route at this crag. Very few people bring trad gear to Rumney, so on a busy day I like to bring a small selection of gear, and I can get on all kinds of fun routes while the strict sporty folk stand in line for the classics.
What can I say? It's a crack. Follow it and have fun. Mostly hand sized crack with some face holds.
Location Just left of Romancing the Stone, there is a set of stairs. Go up the stairs and turn right, you are there.
Protection Bring a standard rack. Ring bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 Crack by the Road (right), Bolt and Run (left)...
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Erin on the "happy place" ledge before starting up...
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Erin in the middle of the route...
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Issac on 5.8 Crack by the Road...
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Dave on 5.8 crack
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wide angle of the whole route...
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matt...
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matt practicing gear craft
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| Comments on The 5.8 Crack by the Road |
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By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Oct 18, 2009
| Super fun route. I used three cams (#1-3 Camalots) but wish I had doubles of a couple of these. I ran out the end a little bit but that's the easy section. |
By maineah
From: Maine
Jan 26, 2010
rating: 5.6
| Felt more like 5.6, but it's a really fun route. The crack offers perfect cam placements. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 16, 2010
| Here lies the remains of the wasted link cam that has been hopelessly stuck on 5.8 crack by the road for too long... |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 16, 2010
| Lee,
Do you know exactly why the lobes on this thing are broken? Did you purposely break it to get it out, or did it break simply from you working on it to get it out? My initial reaction, especially given other Link-cam breakages, is 'Yikes'. I mean, I have spent some time pounding and pulling on booty TCUs and Camalots a lot smaller than this, and I never broke anything except a few trigger wires. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 16, 2010
| haha, not to worry after working at it another day with a nut tool i came back with a sawzall and a beefy blade which was the cause of the broken lobes :) |
By Harrison Harb
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 5, 2011
| This climb is great fun. If you're like me and don't have a trad rack, worry not. There are some old anchors like 20 feet above the ones for this climb which one can use to get down to it and then TR. |
By devkrev
From: West Woodstock, VT
Jul 23, 2012
| I swear this whole route could be protected with nothing but #2 camalots. I brought 2 with me and leap frogged both at least once each. |
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 21, 2013
| This was my third trad lead ever. Much thanks to the nice Quebecois dude who let me borrow a couple C4s so I could have doubles and be a wimp. I sewed it up. Awesome times. |
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