Private Property with limited allowed access. Do NOT add routes here.MORE INFO >>>
The climbing is on private land the landowner (not the local climbers) is requesting that climbers do not publish information on the routes at Farley Ledge. The Western Mass Climbers Coalition folks are trying to help assure that the landowner's wishes are respected, and users are requested NOT to post route information on Mountain Project.
Since Farley is all on private land, the owners have the ability to take access away at any time if they feel that overcrowding is happening. And they are sensitive to this overcrowding and watching it.
In order to protect the access that we do have at Farley, we are taking down route information should be taken down in order to respect the landowner's wishes.
The WMCC is working on a longer-term solution for the area, and will make information more readily available so that folks understand the issues and don't feel that access is being restricted simply to keep the area sacred to the locals.
Portions of Farley Ledge are also now closed for peregrines. The Zen Garden and the Four Tiers are open, but in between is closed (Courtroom, Main Slab, Pinnacle, Yellow Wall, K2 area, and the Balcony.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is the secret to Farley climbing. It has superb rock quality with some amazing trad and mixed lines: from short perfect splitter 12 crack to dicey slab mixed routes to an overhanging 13 offwidth.
From the Amphitheatre, follow the trail steeply up left, continue past the opening to the Bat Cave and on up. Once you are up the switchbacks, the climbs go out to the right. Cracks like ?Yosemite Crack? and Barn Door are just a couple of the classic lines up on the 2nd tier.
The land owner's have specifically asked that guides not be published for the area (this includes online).Eds. the information has been deleted by request of the landowner....[more]Browse More Classics in MA