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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Dec 8, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
All mixed up questions:

1) is it skin-able? Trying to break out the new AT setup if possible.

2) what condition is it in solid 4 or are there any WI3 lines up to the top.

3) any big Avy concerns right now with all the new snow.

Thanks guys, looking to head up with a friend on fri/sat

Seth
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Dec 8, 2013
seth0687 wrote:
All mixed up questions: 1) is it skin-able? Trying to break out the new AT setup if possible. 2) what condition is it in solid 4 or are there any WI3 lines up to the top. 3) any big Avy concerns right now with all the new snow. Thanks guys, looking to head up with a friend on fri/sat Seth



A few answers about AMU.

1) it will be skinable up to the real start of the approach. Once you get the mills lake its gnarly boot packing from there.
2) Almost of the all of the climb is WI 3 right now. the last pitch has some WI4 in it tho.
3) with all this new snow and there will prob be wind soon good avi caution is wise.

Enjoy its one of the great climbs around.
AaronPugmire
Joined Mar 8, 2012
71 points
Dec 9, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Thanks man. I think in light of this recent storm I may try nw face of thatchtop. I'll post up with conditions after this Saturday.

Cheers
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Dec 9, 2013
After a day of ice climbing
Ray Hellinger wrote:
Surprised no one has reported it, but, Ames ice hose is in great condition



How is the first pitch?
Jeremy Joseph
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined May 31, 2011
431 points
Dec 9, 2013
Jeremy Joseph wrote:
How is the first pitch?


Super thick and takes good screws the whole way
Ray Hellinger
From Zion...for the most part
Joined Feb 2, 2006
378 points
Dec 9, 2013
Summit shot
The hose is looking so fat.

Ames Ice Hose  12-8-13.
Ames Ice Hose 12-8-13.
Drew McLean
From Colorado
Joined Oct 16, 2006
378 points
Dec 9, 2013
Any word on Chalk Creek? Adam DNR
Joined Dec 9, 2013
0 points
Dec 9, 2013
ice park
RobC2 wrote:
However... Looks like the bolt fairy paid a visit and stuck a superfluous bolt out yonder above the Mixed Emotions crack, ostensibly to protect some frozen spittle over there. Newsflash. That's been led without any fekkin bolt by an earlier generation of hard men who required no such contrivances, men of mettle like the late JR seen here sans bolt doing what all lads should do ( i.e., having a set). (See image below) So... Dear Bolt Fairy Fly your arse back up yonder Loch Vale and yank that shite out come back when its warm and patch that 'ole. And mebbe grow a set...


Are you sure Jack Roberts did it this way?
Will Butler
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 6, 2005
53 points
Dec 9, 2013
Bugaboos, 1978 Photo by Ken Trout
C'mon Vail!!!
What's in after the cold snap?
Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2003
1,550 points
Dec 9, 2013
.
Visited Loch Vale today. The only new bolt that we observed was well above the Mixed Feeling's traverse and wouldn't be even close to clip for that climb. It is also far left of the vertical portion of Mixed Feeling's line.

It appears to protect a thin seam of rock that joins some very thin ice above (again, far left of the climb in discussion). Not saying it was legal/good to bolt there, but it is a seperate climb in my opinion. Unless we missed seeing another newly placed bolt (didn't climb it today, just looked from the ground), I don't see this affects the boldness of Mixed Feelings in any way.
Captain America
From Longmont, CO
Joined Oct 12, 2006
230 points
Dec 9, 2013
Kirk Miller wrote:
C'mon Vail!!! What's in after the cold snap?


Passed Vail today and the Fang was one amazing thin long column touching down…wish it would only stay all season and get fatter. Pitkin/Timberline? Pumphouse, Stairway, Raquet Club etc. are all in and getting better, Designator in but thin…big base cone. Anyone know the name/lines of the low/lower angle gulleys just east of Georgetown on the North side of I-70? fat for now. Hidden Falls in Glenwood coming in as is Glenwood Falls for a pre-dawn ascent...
Shameless Shaemus
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Joined Jun 3, 2009
78 points
Dec 10, 2013
Which way to the summit?
I was surprised to read that the Ames Ice Hose was reported as in good condition. I backed off 20 feet up the second pitch on Saturday 12/7 due to sublimated, non supportable snice. The first pitch is in fatter than the other 2 times I've been on the route but the second classic pitch wasn't even worth climbing in my opinion. The 3rd pitch looked wide and fat from below, but hard to say definitively.

Sapphire Bullets of Pure Ice was in good condition, though thin in spots and some seriously deep snow wallowing on the approach. Pitch 1 is steep and chandeliered extensively, mixed climbing out right is a bit easier.
Micah Lewkowitz
From Longmont, CO
Joined Mar 4, 2009
61 points
Dec 10, 2013
el guapo
Redstone update for those who are interested. Not quite worth a trip yet, but looking really good for this time of year. BJ Sbarra
From Carbondale, CO
Joined Aug 3, 2006
810 points
Dec 10, 2013
Adam Roy 1 wrote:
Any word on Chalk Creek?

Right side of chalk creek is in for sure, the left side curtain was still forming last I saw it. Give the left a little more time and it should be in nice. Otherwise, it's worth checking out now if you're in the area.
John Collis
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jul 10, 2010
33 points
Dec 10, 2013
Personal Photo
Gravity and Kennedy's are currently climbable but the forecast is for warmer wx so probably won't last. Other conditions here: Ouray, Silverton, Telluride Ice Conditions sanjuanmtnguide
Joined Oct 24, 2013
5 points
Dec 10, 2013
On the Summit of the Petit Grepon
Anyone know of the conditions for "The Road" route up Mount Evans? Nick Fatseas
From Denver, CO
Joined May 25, 2011
66 points
Dec 10, 2013
Anyone been up to the overflow in RMNP recently? Joseph Wright
Joined Jan 16, 2010
0 points
Dec 10, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.
Springs ice is shaping up well.

P1 of Hully Gully.
P1 of Hully Gully.



Slade Bradbury. P2 Hully Gully.
Slade Bradbury.
P2 Hully Gully.
phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Joined Feb 23, 2005
664 points
Dec 10, 2013
Hidden Falls is in good WI4 shape but there is still a lot of water running down the top column. It is very climbable if you are delicate.
Hidden Falls (RMNP).
Hidden Falls (RMNP).
Martin Barnett
Joined Jun 17, 2006
96 points
Dec 11, 2013
San Juans.
As of Monday 12-9, everything on Wolf Creek pass was mega fat. Tons of snow and cold temps produced ice all over the place. Treasure Falls looked like it needed a bit more time, but Chain Station etc. looked great. Avy conditions should be considered though... Jaaron Mankins
From Bayfield, CO
Joined Nov 17, 2006
978 points
Dec 11, 2013
Clear Creek? nicelegs
From Denver
Joined Oct 29, 2012
16 points
Dec 11, 2013
jugging up spaceshot
nicelegs wrote:
Clear Creek?


clear creek has some stuff that is in as of sunday.

Coors Lite first few tiers were in, didnt hike up to see the upper section though
Eddie F
From Boulder, co
Joined Dec 20, 2012
18 points
Dec 11, 2013
el guapo
Rifle conditions update:
blog.glenwoodclimbingguides.co...
BJ Sbarra
From Carbondale, CO
Joined Aug 3, 2006
810 points
Dec 11, 2013
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.
Anyone been up to Moffatt Tunnel recently? Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Joined Jan 28, 2010
154 points
Dec 11, 2013
Bocan
Alton R. wrote:
Anyone been up to Moffatt Tunnel recently?


Go back one page for a report from 4 days ago.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points


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