All mixed up questions: 1) is it skin-able? Trying to break out the new AT setup if possible. 2) what condition is it in solid 4 or are there any WI3 lines up to the top. 3) any big Avy concerns right now with all the new snow. Thanks guys, looking to head up with a friend on fri/sat Seth
A few answers about AMU.
1) it will be skinable up to the real start of the approach. Once you get the mills lake its gnarly boot packing from there. 2) Almost of the all of the climb is WI 3 right now. the last pitch has some WI4 in it tho. 3) with all this new snow and there will prob be wind soon good avi caution is wise.
However... Looks like the bolt fairy paid a visit and stuck a superfluous bolt out yonder above the Mixed Emotions crack, ostensibly to protect some frozen spittle over there. Newsflash. That's been led without any fekkin bolt by an earlier generation of hard men who required no such contrivances, men of mettle like the late JR seen here sans bolt doing what all lads should do ( i.e., having a set). (See image below) So... Dear Bolt Fairy Fly your arse back up yonder Loch Vale and yank that shite out come back when its warm and patch that 'ole. And mebbe grow a set...
Visited Loch Vale today. The only new bolt that we observed was well above the Mixed Feeling's traverse and wouldn't be even close to clip for that climb. It is also far left of the vertical portion of Mixed Feeling's line.
It appears to protect a thin seam of rock that joins some very thin ice above (again, far left of the climb in discussion). Not saying it was legal/good to bolt there, but it is a seperate climb in my opinion. Unless we missed seeing another newly placed bolt (didn't climb it today, just looked from the ground), I don't see this affects the boldness of Mixed Feelings in any way.
Passed Vail today and the Fang was one amazing thin long column touching down…wish it would only stay all season and get fatter. Pitkin/Timberline? Pumphouse, Stairway, Raquet Club etc. are all in and getting better, Designator in but thin…big base cone. Anyone know the name/lines of the low/lower angle gulleys just east of Georgetown on the North side of I-70? fat for now. Hidden Falls in Glenwood coming in as is Glenwood Falls for a pre-dawn ascent...
I was surprised to read that the Ames Ice Hose was reported as in good condition. I backed off 20 feet up the second pitch on Saturday 12/7 due to sublimated, non supportable snice. The first pitch is in fatter than the other 2 times I've been on the route but the second classic pitch wasn't even worth climbing in my opinion. The 3rd pitch looked wide and fat from below, but hard to say definitively.
Sapphire Bullets of Pure Ice was in good condition, though thin in spots and some seriously deep snow wallowing on the approach. Pitch 1 is steep and chandeliered extensively, mixed climbing out right is a bit easier.
Right side of chalk creek is in for sure, the left side curtain was still forming last I saw it. Give the left a little more time and it should be in nice. Otherwise, it's worth checking out now if you're in the area.
As of Monday 12-9, everything on Wolf Creek pass was mega fat. Tons of snow and cold temps produced ice all over the place. Treasure Falls looked like it needed a bit more time, but Chain Station etc. looked great. Avy conditions should be considered though...