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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By A.P.Lee
From Boulder, CO
Dec 2, 2013

has anyone gotten on dream weaver lately?


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By ScottC
Dec 2, 2013

Ben Bruestle wrote:
Jack Hunt reports that the Chain Station below Wolf Creek Pass is NOT in yet.

Appreciate that Ben - saves me a drive. Any news on Alpha Male, etc? They looked close two weeks ago.


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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Dec 2, 2013
Mt. Churchill, University Range

Vail has been climbing nice. The Fire House area is in. The Spiral Staircase, Secrete Probation, Belfry, and a few others are in. No Desi, Thang or Seventh Tentacle.


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By Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Dec 2, 2013
Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully of Arrowhead.  If anyone cleans that stopper and pin, I'd be glad to have it back.

A.P.Lee wrote:
has anyone gotten on dream weaver lately?


Dreamweaver is typically a miserable snow slog (at best) until May or June.


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By Kurt Johnson
From Estes Park, CO
Dec 2, 2013
A ladybug on a rock in front of Conundrum Peak, Elk Mountains, Colorado.

I did All Mixed Up on Saturday and it was even fatter than pics I saw from mid November. Beautiful rare windless day. The approach trail was in decent shape, though it'll probably get covered with new snow by Wed. The descent scramble was a bit tricky with ice on the rock, but can be avoided with a rappel (we missed the anchors).


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By Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Dec 3, 2013
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, weird roof since the curtain broke off. Photo by Cody Olsen.

Taylor-B. wrote:
Vail has been climbing nice. The Fire House area is in. The Spiral Staircase, Secrete Probation, Belfry, and a few others are in. No Desi, Thang or Seventh Tentacle.


Seventh tentacle is actually in. Tho maybe a little thin.


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By Ray Hellinger
From Flagstaff, az
Dec 3, 2013

ScottC wrote:
Appreciate that Ben - saves me a drive. Any news on Alpha Male, etc? They looked close two weeks ago.


Alpha male and sheeps clothing are in.


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By ryan fifer
From colorado springs
Dec 3, 2013

Went to Hidden Falls Sunday Dec 1. Ice is climbable but still thin in parts. It needs some cold weather and to be treated delicately. Parties were kicking off bowling ball size chunks and if not careful some of the pillars could be trashed for the season. The top pillar is fractured and the far right is thin with water running under the ice. That being said the trail is packed and its a 20 min approach. Climb with kid gloves and don't ruin it for the rest of the year.


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By perropirana
Dec 3, 2013

any info on Ouray camp bird area?
I know we are getting lots of snow this week.
Thanks.


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By Highlander
From Ouray, CO
Dec 3, 2013

perropirana wrote:
any info on Ouray camp bird area? I know we are getting lots of snow this week. Thanks.


the sound of crickets


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By Kevin Craig
Dec 3, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

perropirana wrote:
any info on Ouray camp bird area? I know we are getting lots of snow this week. Thanks.


There are many 1-3 pitch ice climbs there and a bunch of dry-tooling.

But seriously... Ribbon, Talisman and BBB are in good shape and the Racing Stripes looked pretty decent (for their grade) in photos I've seen, but all will probably have avy danger from above and/or on the approach if they get as much snow out of this storm as the rest of the state (if not, probably still good to go). Haven't heard anything specific about the north side of the valley (Skylight area), but assume most of the climbs are in by now - or will be after this cold snap. Some of those routes provide quality alpine simulation with major snow sluffs running over the routes during times of heavy snow.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Dec 4, 2013
Bocan

ryan fifer wrote:
Went to Hidden Falls Sunday Dec 1. Ice is climbable but still thin in parts. It needs some cold weather and to be treated delicately. Parties were kicking off bowling ball size chunks and if not careful some of the pillars could be trashed for the season. The top pillar is fractured and the far right is thin with water running under the ice. That being said the trail is packed and its a 20 min approach. Climb with kid gloves and don't ruin it for the rest of the year.


+1000

If you are going to take people out to learn, take the time to teach them correctly. I don't even like going to HF's anymore as it's straight up dangerous. And then there is a lot to be said for waiting till the ice is better formed. Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

Just my .02 and hopefully my only useless rant this season. :o)


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By michael voth
Dec 4, 2013
2nd pitch of Womb.

^ +1

There are other spots to go that are higher with nice low angle ice to teach folks on that are fat right now. Jewel Lake for example, little over 1 hr. approach….


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By Chad Wagner
Dec 6, 2013
me

How about Lake City ice? Anything formed up with the COLD snap?


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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Dec 6, 2013

Still nothing in red stone checked today.


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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Dec 6, 2013
And then you throw for a Gaston, like seriously guys. I onsighted the shit out of Levi's Stadium

Anyone been to Moffat Tunnel ice yet? Is it in?


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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Dec 6, 2013
And then you throw for a Gaston, like seriously guys. I onsighted the shit out of Levi's Stadium

Scott McMahon wrote:
+1000 If you are going to take people out to learn, take the time to teach them correctly. I don't even like going to HF's anymore as it's straight up dangerous. And then there is a lot to be said for waiting till the ice is better formed. Just because you can doesn't mean you should. Just my .02 and hopefully my only useless rant this season. :o)


At almost every ice crag I've been to, there's been overflow ice running down from the falls into the approach trail. When I take beginners out, I have them practice swinging their tools on that ground ice. It's a great way to teach them to aim for concave patches of ice so that when they get up on the actual flow they aren't destroying the ice for everyone else. Added benefit, if done strategically, this can help clean up the approach trail of ice.


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By Ignacio
From Denver, CO
Dec 6, 2013
At bolt 6 (or 5?)

I was wondering if after these cold days the flows on CCC may have formed... anybody checked out Coors Light yet? Or do those normally form later in the season?


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Dec 6, 2013
Bocan

Ignacio wrote:
I was wondering if after these cold days the flows on CCC may have formed... anybody checked out Coors Light yet? Or do those normally form later in the season?


It's all about the snow. It hasn't formed in 2 years I think and Jeffco keeps the farming equipment out.


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By Mike Morin
From On the Road
Dec 6, 2013
Lincoln Lake

Drove by them moments ago. They need more time to form up. They are starting to come in though.


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By RobC2
Dec 6, 2013
This..

Climbed Free Strike zone a couple of times last Sunday, primo although the chossy block behind which I usually stuff a couple of cams shifted ominously when I yarded on it with my tool. Best I've seen this route since F1 days.

However...

Looks like the bolt fairy paid a visit and stuck a superfluous bolt out yonder above the Mixed Emotions crack, ostensibly to protect some frozen spittle over there.

Newsflash. That's been led without any fekkin bolt by an earlier generation of hard men who required no such contrivances, men of mettle like the late JR seen here sans bolt doing what all lads should do ( i.e., having a set).

(See image below)

So...

Dear Bolt Fairy
Fly your arse back up yonder Loch Vale and yank that shite out come back when its warm and patch that 'ole.

And mebbe grow a set...


JR needing zero bolts....
JR needing zero bolts....


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By Anthony Arena
From Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2013
crevasse climbing on the Matnuska, AK

Moffat, 11/30.
Moffat, 11/30.


for those asking about moffat, went up for some solo laps last sat. main flow was a bit thin/picked out on the left side, right side lots of running water (probably changed with the recent cold though). Main pillar on the left by the mine shaft is really coming in nice! I also managed to make a run up one of the south facing routes but it was thin and melting so not sure if it melted off before the cold came in
cheers
anthony


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By Ray Hellinger
From Flagstaff, az
Dec 7, 2013

Surprised no one has reported it, but, Ames ice hose is in great condition


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By Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Dec 7, 2013
Long day on the ice.

RobC2 wrote:
Climbed Free Strike zone a couple of times last Sunday, primo although the chossy block behind which I usually stuff a couple of cams shifted ominously when I yarded on it with my tool. Best I've seen this route since F1 days. However... Looks like the bolt fairy paid a visit and stuck a superfluous bolt out yonder above the Mixed Emotions crack, ostensibly to protect some frozen spittle over there. Newsflash. That's been led without any fekkin bolt by an earlier generation of hard men who required no such contrivances, men of mettle like the late JR seen here sans bolt doing what all lads should do ( i.e., having a set). (See image below) So... Dear Bolt Fairy Fly your arse back up yonder Loch Vale and yank that shite out come back when its warm and patch that 'ole. And mebbe grow a set...



Exceptional! William Shakespeare couldn't have said it better.





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By Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Dec 7, 2013
Long day on the ice.

Moffat at night.
Moffat at night.


12/06/2013

Sublime. -4 degrees. All ours under the stars.


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