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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Nov 23, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Thought we'd be clever after all the moisture and recent cold and get on Hessie Chimney while it's fat. Unfortunately, reality didn't cooperate...

Hessie Chimney on 11/23/13.
Hessie Chimney on 11/23/13.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Nov 23, 2013
So that's whose tracks were below Hessie! Erik Rieger and I managed to get up the long first pitch, though the crux was sportier than usual. Delicate moves rather far above gear. We removed a very large and dangerous flake near the top of the lower chimney (just below the midway ledge/stance). Probably 70 or 80 pounds. Scary! Dougald MacDonald
Joined Apr 13, 2002
831 points
Nov 23, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
Dougald MacDonald wrote:
So that's whose tracks were below Hessie! Erik Rieger and I managed to get up the long first pitch, though the crux was sportier than usual. Delicate moves rather far above gear. We removed a very large and dangerous flake near the top of the lower chimney (just below the midway ledge/stance). Probably 70 or 80 pounds. Scary!


Thanks for doin' all the leg work guys! I was going to check this out but... looks like I found my answer.
Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,578 points
Nov 23, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Good on ya' Dougald; we weren't up for the scrappyness today. Looked like the flood rains mainly washed a bunch of mud into the chimney rather than form ice! :( You're most welcome for the broken track; seemed like the line we took was easier than the approaches described here and in Jack's book. Thanks for the clean-up efforts.

No worries Andy, just trying to practice what I preach and sharing the wealth/info. Seems like there's not as much condition-reporting as in years past and I've been lamenting the lack of community spirit.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Nov 23, 2013
Went to Jewell Lake in RMNp on 11/19/13. Ice there was good. All Mixed Up looked huge (see left side of photo) and there were at least 4 big climbs to the right (east) of AMU. Might need snowshoes for that approach now. Farther up valley, Reflections looked big too.
All Mixed Up and other ice climbs in RMNP 11-19-20...
All Mixed Up and other ice climbs in RMNP 11-19-2013
Jim Davidson
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Joined Nov 22, 2006
32 points
Nov 23, 2013
Did AMU on the 16th - full conditions day - more ice than I have EVER seen up there. Lots of routes to the right to do. Approach sucked as usual. Paul Gagner
Joined Oct 9, 2007
24 points
Nov 23, 2013
801.
Summit/Eagle Co conditions: Things have been great here in the high country. Lincoln has been in fat for over a month now. The road is gated so it requires a longer scenic walk in. 10 Mile has been building well and is now headed into an avi danger condition. Tony's, Fish, Round the Corner, and 3 Tiers are all in great shape. Upper Tiers is now out. No Shroud, but building slow. Firehouse has some early ice conditions so get your thin game on! Staircase is climbable as well as the pillars in the Belfry. Tourettes and Secret Prob in great shape. Ice is forming above 7th Testicle and the Fang and Desi are still a ways off. As always, there is a ton of drytooling in Vail to get your pump. Enjoy the early season conditions. Rob Griz
From Frisco
Joined Feb 3, 2008
1,444 points
Nov 24, 2013
Made a quick trip up the Big Thompson Canyon to look at the Big T icefall (just in case). Found that the river is still quite high, old crossing is washed away, the far bank is going to be a pain to scramble up and over, and well, it just ain't ready.

We bailed and will wait for more river ice. It probably wasn't in anyway ;-)
Rodney Ley 1
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Joined Nov 24, 2013
7 points
 
Nov 25, 2013
Laps in Ouray
Alexander's Chimney is still in good shape. Top half of pitch 4 is dry. Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Joined Aug 22, 2005
113 points
Nov 26, 2013
Round the Corner and Right of Round the Corner on 11-24-13, long slog up loose snow over rocks and small boulders. After the wind storm over the weekend of the 16th there wasn't much snow on the approach, 1-2ft.


Round the Corner, Ten Mile Canyon.
Round the Corner, Ten Mile Canyon.
J C Wilks
From Loveland, CO
Joined Aug 29, 2006
301 points
Nov 26, 2013
near the summit of Yanapaccha (17,913ft) in the Co...
Does anyone know anything about ice conditions on Mt. Evans? I have wanted to do the route "The Road" for awhile now, curious as to whether or not its in Eric Rich
From Durham, NC
Joined Nov 25, 2008
155 points
Nov 26, 2013
Laps in Ouray
I did a trail run up Chicago Lakes 2 weeks ago and there was some good ice (maybe a pitch and a half of WI4) in above the bouldering area. I couldn't tell very well if the "The Road" was in but I would be surprised if its not. There is definitely some interesting ice in the drainage this year. Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Joined Aug 22, 2005
113 points
Nov 26, 2013
is lincoln in yet? Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Nov 26, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Buff Johnson wrote:
is lincoln in yet?


Been in for a few weeks now man. Everything is pretty fat including the far right pillars. Get at it before its too hacked up!
LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Nov 26, 2013
Is it good for go-pro top-roping? Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Nov 26, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Buff Johnson wrote:
Is it good for go-pro top-roping?


Only if you're an XTreme-ly rad dude-bro-man who's totally stoked to be pulling down hard on the gnar.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
 
Nov 26, 2013
defnatly gnar gnar on the gpro Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Nov 26, 2013
Vail, The Eraser
Come ON GUYS what IN!? Dan Stoffel
From Englewood, Co
Joined Nov 30, 2010
33 points
Nov 28, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.
Dan, EVERYTHING is IN! phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Joined Feb 23, 2005
664 points
Nov 30, 2013
Hulk
We climbed Martha yesterday, 11/29. Only the final step contained some ice. The others were dry mixed climbing. The snow fields in between were a mix of sugary and crusty snow. Ryan Malarky
From Denver, CO
Joined Jan 26, 2006
89 points
Nov 30, 2013
Did a Thanksgiving climb of Alexander's Chimney. Easy boot pack until Chasm Lake, some postholing from there to the first pitch. Ice is solid on the first three pitches, still good on the chockstone pitch and the ramp after, but not nearly as fat as a few weeks ago - definitely no screws now on the thin parts. Smear of Fear still looks fat (relatively speaking) too. Dylan Evans
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Apr 18, 2012
21 points
Nov 30, 2013
Jack Hunt reports that the Chain Station below Wolf Creek Pass is NOT in yet. Ben Bruestle
From Pueblo, CO
Joined Dec 21, 2001
613 points
Dec 1, 2013
Deep Freeze in very good shape but thin, brittle top of crux pitch may disappear in predicted cold snap this week. First pitch (direct start) has ice in back of chimney then delicate traverse over fragile snow mushroom to first chockstone. Unique! Dougald MacDonald
Joined Apr 13, 2002
831 points
Dec 2, 2013
Can anyone give us an update on Vail? Stuff must be forming by now John Collis
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jul 10, 2010
33 points
 
Dec 2, 2013
has anyone gotten on dream weaver lately? A.P.Lee
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 11, 2012
21 points


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