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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 23, 2013
Indian Creek Climbing

No climbable ice in the Redstone area, temps have been too warm, need a few weeks of cold temperatures


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By Kevin Craig
Nov 23, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Thought we'd be clever after all the moisture and recent cold and get on Hessie Chimney while it's fat. Unfortunately, reality didn't cooperate...

Hessie Chimney on 11/23/13.
Hessie Chimney on 11/23/13.


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By Dougald MacDonald
Nov 23, 2013

So that's whose tracks were below Hessie! Erik Rieger and I managed to get up the long first pitch, though the crux was sportier than usual. Delicate moves rather far above gear. We removed a very large and dangerous flake near the top of the lower chimney (just below the midway ledge/stance). Probably 70 or 80 pounds. Scary!


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Nov 23, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Dougald MacDonald wrote:
So that's whose tracks were below Hessie! Erik Rieger and I managed to get up the long first pitch, though the crux was sportier than usual. Delicate moves rather far above gear. We removed a very large and dangerous flake near the top of the lower chimney (just below the midway ledge/stance). Probably 70 or 80 pounds. Scary!


Thanks for doin' all the leg work guys! I was going to check this out but... looks like I found my answer.


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By Kevin Craig
Nov 23, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Good on ya' Dougald; we weren't up for the scrappyness today. Looked like the flood rains mainly washed a bunch of mud into the chimney rather than form ice! :( You're most welcome for the broken track; seemed like the line we took was easier than the approaches described here and in Jack's book. Thanks for the clean-up efforts.

No worries Andy, just trying to practice what I preach and sharing the wealth/info. Seems like there's not as much condition-reporting as in years past and I've been lamenting the lack of community spirit.


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By Jim Davidson
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Nov 23, 2013

Went to Jewell Lake in RMNp on 11/19/13. Ice there was good. All Mixed Up looked huge (see left side of photo) and there were at least 4 big climbs to the right (east) of AMU. Might need snowshoes for that approach now. Farther up valley, Reflections looked big too.

All Mixed Up and other ice climbs in RMNP 11-19-2013
All Mixed Up and other ice climbs in RMNP 11-19-2013


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By Paul Gagner
Nov 23, 2013

Did AMU on the 16th - full conditions day - more ice than I have EVER seen up there. Lots of routes to the right to do. Approach sucked as usual.


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By Rob Griz
From Frisco
Nov 23, 2013
801.

Summit/Eagle Co conditions: Things have been great here in the high country. Lincoln has been in fat for over a month now. The road is gated so it requires a longer scenic walk in. 10 Mile has been building well and is now headed into an avi danger condition. Tony's, Fish, Round the Corner, and 3 Tiers are all in great shape. Upper Tiers is now out. No Shroud, but building slow. Firehouse has some early ice conditions so get your thin game on! Staircase is climbable as well as the pillars in the Belfry. Tourettes and Secret Prob in great shape. Ice is forming above 7th Testicle and the Fang and Desi are still a ways off. As always, there is a ton of drytooling in Vail to get your pump. Enjoy the early season conditions.


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By Rodney Ley 1
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Nov 24, 2013

Made a quick trip up the Big Thompson Canyon to look at the Big T icefall (just in case). Found that the river is still quite high, old crossing is washed away, the far bank is going to be a pain to scramble up and over, and well, it just ain't ready.

We bailed and will wait for more river ice. It probably wasn't in anyway ;-)


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By Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Nov 25, 2013
Laps in Ouray

Alexander's Chimney is still in good shape. Top half of pitch 4 is dry.


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By J C Wilks
From Loveland, CO
Nov 26, 2013

Round the Corner and Right of Round the Corner on 11-24-13, long slog up loose snow over rocks and small boulders. After the wind storm over the weekend of the 16th there wasn't much snow on the approach, 1-2ft.


Round the Corner, Ten Mile Canyon.
Round the Corner, Ten Mile Canyon.


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By Eric Rich
From Durham, NC
Nov 26, 2013
near the summit of Yanapaccha (17,913ft) in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru

Does anyone know anything about ice conditions on Mt. Evans? I have wanted to do the route "The Road" for awhile now, curious as to whether or not its in


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By Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Nov 26, 2013
Laps in Ouray

I did a trail run up Chicago Lakes 2 weeks ago and there was some good ice (maybe a pitch and a half of WI4) in above the bouldering area. I couldn't tell very well if the "The Road" was in but I would be surprised if its not. There is definitely some interesting ice in the drainage this year.


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By Buff Johnson
Nov 26, 2013
smiley face

is lincoln in yet?


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By LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 26, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in the background

Buff Johnson wrote:
is lincoln in yet?


Been in for a few weeks now man. Everything is pretty fat including the far right pillars. Get at it before its too hacked up!


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By Buff Johnson
Nov 26, 2013
smiley face

Is it good for go-pro top-roping?


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By Kevin Craig
Nov 26, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Buff Johnson wrote:
Is it good for go-pro top-roping?


Only if you're an XTreme-ly rad dude-bro-man who's totally stoked to be pulling down hard on the gnar.


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By Buff Johnson
Nov 26, 2013
smiley face

defnatly gnar gnar on the gpro


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By Dan Stoffel
From Englewood, Co
Nov 26, 2013
Vail, The Eraser

Come ON GUYS what IN!?


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By phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Nov 28, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.

Dan, EVERYTHING is IN!


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By Ryan Malarky
From Denver, CO
Nov 30, 2013
Hulk

We climbed Martha yesterday, 11/29. Only the final step contained some ice. The others were dry mixed climbing. The snow fields in between were a mix of sugary and crusty snow.


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By Dylan Evans
From Boulder, Colorado
Nov 30, 2013

Did a Thanksgiving climb of Alexander's Chimney. Easy boot pack until Chasm Lake, some postholing from there to the first pitch. Ice is solid on the first three pitches, still good on the chockstone pitch and the ramp after, but not nearly as fat as a few weeks ago - definitely no screws now on the thin parts. Smear of Fear still looks fat (relatively speaking) too.


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By Ben Bruestle
From Pueblo, CO
Nov 30, 2013

Jack Hunt reports that the Chain Station below Wolf Creek Pass is NOT in yet.


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By Dougald MacDonald
Dec 1, 2013

Deep Freeze in very good shape but thin, brittle top of crux pitch may disappear in predicted cold snap this week. First pitch (direct start) has ice in back of chimney then delicate traverse over fragile snow mushroom to first chockstone. Unique!


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By John Collis
Dec 2, 2013

Can anyone give us an update on Vail? Stuff must be forming by now


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