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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Nov 6, 2013
Relaxing at the top of looking glass.
Hayes creek near restone is starting to come in. Needs lots more time tho.
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Brian marsh
From carbondale, CO
Joined Jun 20, 2012
160 points
Nov 7, 2013
Monastery
AMU is (or was) fat...WI3ish.

Chris Gibbs
From Denver, CO
Joined Feb 13, 2011
56 points
Nov 8, 2013
Personal Photo
We have current Ice conditions in again with pics for the Ouray Silverton, Telluride area. mtnguide.net/resources/ouray-i...

Also a quick trip report on the ribbon which is/was climbing well right now.
mtnguide.net/ice-climbing-ribb...

currently in a warming trend which could change some things so will try to keep folks posted....
sanjuanmtnguide
Joined Oct 24, 2013
5 points
Nov 9, 2013
Pitch 3 all mixed up
Pitch 3 all mixed up
martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Joined Jul 20, 2010
231 points
Nov 11, 2013
I was in officers gulch Saturday climbing three tiers. I found something that may be valuable to someone that lost this at the base of the climb. Please pm me with description and I shall return it. JK1
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Feb 12, 2006
6 points
Nov 11, 2013
On Pikes, Blind Assumption is still in great condition. Total Abandon looked decent from below. The ice is still on 66 Years of Fun. Ben Collett
Joined Mar 15, 2006
1,205 points
Nov 12, 2013
Expanding on what Ben said, Total Abandon is getting a little thin on the first pitch and the second pitch is hooked out and sublimating. Third pitch is dry rock. Don't expect many screws, favor rock gear instead. Still very climbable as of this Saturday. Jason Maki
Joined Mar 19, 2012
104 points
Nov 12, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
I got on TA on Sunday. First pitch is thin, shit ice but climbable and fun. Second pitch is still pretty good but definitely sublimating. Third pitch is a boulder mixed fest. I found the third pitch to be the most burly in these conditions. Still fun route, maybe got a week or two before its complete shit. Get on it! LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Nov 12, 2013
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
Southern Circus, WI5 M6/7.
Southern Circus, WI5 M6/7.

A new mixed line on Pikes Peak, a bit more serious than TA and BA.
erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Joined Apr 3, 2008
370 points
Nov 12, 2013
Lake City, CO mixin it up
Anything in Vail yet? John Fatseas
From Denver, CO
Joined May 24, 2011
151 points
Nov 12, 2013
Longs Peak Cirque
I was in Vail on Sunday and the ice was not yet ready. We drytooled for the day. Thanks whoever has done all the bolting up there. When we got back to the car in the afternoon the car thermometer read above 50 degrees. We need a couple weeks of colder temps. It seemed like the ice that was there started dripping more and more through out the day while we were there. Matt Shepard
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Jul 19, 2006
39 points
Nov 12, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Everything in South Mineral is in good shape and running a lot of water still so should keep getting better. As of 11/11, the road is drivable to the end by any little old lady in a 2WD with bald tires, and the creek is sufficiently frozen for crossing.

Eureka is a different story. HtH looks good as does 2nd Gully. StH has gotten too much sun and P1 doesn't look climbable. Goldrush looked wet and detached. Low pitches on Hoser's are water and slush on rock, but the upper pillar is super fat.

Edit to add: Sundance isn't in of course, so not EVERYTHING in S Mineral.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Nov 12, 2013
11/11/13

all mixed up. get after it. well established trail. fat ice.
AMU.
AMU.



hidden falls.

Hidden Falls.
Hidden Falls.
alpinejason
From Minneapolis
Joined Apr 25, 2010
102 points
Nov 12, 2013
Kevin Craig wrote:
Everything in South Mineral is in good shape and running a lot of water still so should keep getting better. As of 11/11, the road is drivable to the end by any little old lady in a 2WD with bald tires, and the creek is sufficiently frozen for crossing. Eureka is a different story. HtH looks good as does 2nd Gully. StH has gotten too much sun and P1 doesn't look climbable. Goldrush looked wet and detached. Low pitches on Hoser's are water and slush on rock, but the upper pillar is super fat. Edit to add: Sundance isn't in of course, so not EVERYTHING in S Mineral.


Did the line that is the first on to the right of Stairway. Everyone seems to change up the names. This is the one between Stairway and the climb in the recessed gully. Anyway, the ice was perfect. 5 pitches up to WI4 and it looks like a couple more easy ones after that if you were so inclined. It's a fun route. We rapped it off of v-threads and some slings.....
Ray Hellinger
From Zion...for the most part
Joined Feb 2, 2006
378 points
Nov 13, 2013
Garrett Gillest at Zappa Wall Escalante Canyon, ag...
Climbed Fields Chimney on Longs Sunday Nov 10th:
-P2 had slightly more ice than last year same time
-P3 has minimal ice on the roof crux (extra fun)

Looking down P2 Field's Chimney.
Looking down P2 Field's Chimney.


Unknown climber on The Window headed to the Window...
Unknown climber on The Window headed to the Window Pane.


Current Long's Peak ice conditions.
Current Long's Peak ice conditions.
Kevin Gillest
From Arvada, CO
Joined Dec 26, 2003
2,139 points
Nov 17, 2013
ice park
I left a pair of Smith sunglasses in the cave below Mixed Feelings yesterday in RMNP (super fat btw). If you pick them up if you could shoot me a PM, along with your favorite beer, I would be truly appreciative of their return. Will Butler
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 6, 2005
53 points
Nov 18, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Ray Hellinger wrote:
Did the line that is the first on to the right of Stairway. Everyone seems to change up the names. This is the one between Stairway and the climb in the recessed gully. Anyway, the ice was perfect. 5 pitches up to WI4 and it looks like a couple more easy ones after that if you were so inclined. It's a fun route. We rapped it off of v-threads and some slings.....


Hey Ray, glad you got on that. Pretty sure it's un-named as the deep recessed gully, I've always been told, is Highway to Hell (or Highway 666) and Road to Nowhere. The route that you climbed looked good when we were there too, but we were being lazy slugs. The person who originally told me about it hasn't posted on it so I didn't want to let the cat out of the bag. I kind of doubt it's a FA, but you never know - you might get to name it!

Edit: Doh! I see this has been on the site for a couple of years as "Unknown Scrappy Gully." Regardless, looked pretty cool as of weekend before last.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Nov 20, 2013
Has anyone been up to Lincoln recently? Will Gordon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 28, 2009
15 points
Nov 20, 2013
.
At Lincoln yesterday. Ice is very good, though getting stepped out. Be very careful with the free-hangers, as they need time to gain a little more mass.

Anybody know what the mixed line is called/rated just left of a free-hanger, to the right of Scottish Gully on the lower ice tier? It has two bolts on a slight overhang before getting on the ice, but the moves up to them are stout and the pro at first look is scarce.
Captain America
From Longmont, CO
Joined Oct 12, 2006
230 points
Nov 20, 2013
Leading Blue Collar Crack.
Climbed The Ribbon, Campground Couloir and the first real pitch of Direct North Face. All in good shape. Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,281 points
Nov 20, 2013
Will Butler wrote:
I left a pair of Smith sunglasses in the cave below Mixed Feelings yesterday in RMNP (super fat btw). If you pick them up if you could shoot me a PM, along with your favorite beer, I would be truly appreciative of their return.


Hey! I found your sunnies under Mixed Feelings and I just drank my last Alaskan Winter Seasonal. I live in Estes so let me know next time you come up! - V
VAlexander
Joined Sep 20, 2011
1 points
Nov 21, 2013
Bugaboos, 1978 Photo by Ken Trout
Climbed Crystal Meth in Loch Vale, fatty fat fun.
Launching onto Crystal Meth.
Launching onto Crystal Meth.
Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2003
1,553 points
Nov 22, 2013
Personal Photo
Climbing the Talisman video (Ouray) 3 days ago. Short and sweet.



sanjuanmtnguide
Joined Oct 24, 2013
5 points
Nov 22, 2013
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Some more pictures to throw in from the Talisman a week or so ago. Oh so classic.


Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.

Alpine conditions.
Alpine conditions.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
999 points
Nov 23, 2013
Indian Creek Climbing
No climbable ice in the Redstone area, temps have been too warm, need a few weeks of cold temperatures coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Jan 25, 2005
550 points


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