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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Apr 30, 2014
Mountain Bandito
I've only seen this line in Ten Mile Canyon form up once before, about eight years ago in the fall. We checked it out and it made for a good adventure at WI3 M4+ 400ft with about a hip-deep river crossing. With the forecast for warm temps it might only last another day or two.

River crossing with the climb in the background.
River crossing with the climb in the background.


First pitch.
First pitch.

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2014
Bocan
Taylor-B. wrote:
I've only seen this line in Ten Mile Canyon form up once before, about eight years ago in the fall. We checked it out and it made for a good adventure at WI3 M4+ 400ft with about a hip-deep river crossing. With the forecast for warm temps it might only last another day or two.


Damn dude...hip deep river crossings? Shrinkage man...

FLAG
By GLD
May 1, 2014
Yeah, that's strong I was thigh deep the other day and not happy about it.

FLAG
By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
May 1, 2014
Mountain Bandito
Scott McMahon wrote:
Damn dude...Shrinkage man...

Man-gina Alert!!;) After today's heat, 10 Mile might be toast.

Rare routes on Lincoln are in prime shape and might withstand the heat a bit better, but not for long. We did a 2 pitch WI4+ M3 on the North Face, just across the valley from the Sleepy Hallow cabin, 30-40min approach and rap anchors are in place. The other routes that look good are the slabs to the climbers right of Lincoln Falls and the cliff directly above. The steep cliff above has two established routes on the left that are in prime shape. And there is some potential for other routes to the climbers right that "look good," and the death cornice has already collapsed in some spots. Bring a good selection of steel!
First pitch of Sleepy Hallow.
First pitch of Sleepy Hallow.


Climbs to the right of Lincoln Falls.
Climbs to the right of Lincoln Falls.

FLAG
By trese
From Boulder and Innsbruck, Austria
May 1, 2014
Tyrol
Loch Vale today

Loch Vale Gorge May 1st, 2014.
Loch Vale Gorge May 1st, 2014.


Loch Vale Gorge May 1st, 2014.
Loch Vale Gorge May 1st, 2014.

FLAG
By Mike Walley
From Louisville, CO
May 2, 2014
Mike on West Gully RMNP
Loch Vale is still in?!?!?!? What else in RMNP is still frozen now?

FLAG
By JonnyC
From Fort Collins, CO
May 10, 2014
Dreamweaver
Bump for RMNP conditions

FLAG
By Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
May 14, 2014
Climbing above Black Lake
Kinda wondering if the climbs up by Black Lake won't come back in with this big storm that came thru. Anybody been up there?

FLAG
 
By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
May 14, 2014
Mountain Bandito
Lots of snow in RMNP! Lots of D1 & D2 sluffs occurring. Mt. Powell seems like it has the right formula for Vanquished to form in the near future.

Mt. Powell.
Mt. Powell.

Halletts Chimney
Hallett Chimney.
Hallett Chimney.

A good size sluff rolling past a skier on the Tyndall Couloir. If this is your party I have more photos;)
Tyndall sluff.
Tyndall sluff.

FLAG
By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
May 20, 2014
Mountain Bandito
If we get another cold snap things could prime back up in the high peaks!
On Longs Peak the Window had an ice runnel that touches Broadway.
The Window.
The Window.


The Eight Route had a good size wet slab pull out and wash down Alexanders and the Cables/North Face also had the same type of wet slab instability potential. Alexanders had a lot of ice in it.
Alexanders Chimney.
Alexanders Chimney.


You can ski from the summit, with the Homestretch in fat condition.
The Homestretch.
The Homestretch.

FLAG
By mt.wilson
From Denver
May 20, 2014
officer friendly
Taylor B did you get a good look at cables?

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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
May 20, 2014
Mountain Bandito
Shralpine wrote:
Taylor B did you get a good look at cables?

I climbed the Cables Route and it was in good snice condition and a few of the eye bolts are visible. The boulder field had lot of snow! Sorry, I don't have any pics.

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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
May 26, 2014
From Armin on 5/23/14: condition report for Dreamweaver: I encountered steep, wet snow with occasional M2-ish snice. Steep but short step lasting no more than 15 feet. I took both of my BD vipers, which was a little overkill. Next time I would take 1 technical ice tool and 1 shorter mountaineering axe. Dual points with anti-botts were mandatory.

FLAG
By Mike Hasse
From Lebanon, NH
May 26, 2014
Descending the knife edge ridge on Aiguille du Mid...
I'm flying out to CO on Friday hoping for some quick alpine climbing, does anyone know what the conditions on Mt. Evans are like? Forecast looks marginal, but I was hoping to get on some of the moderate mixed routes up there.

FLAG
By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
May 26, 2014
Mountain Bandito
Mike Hasse wrote:
I'm flying out to CO on Friday hoping for some quick alpine climbing, does anyone know what the conditions on Mt. Evans are like? Forecast looks marginal, but I was hoping to get on some of the moderate mixed routes up there.


Mt. Evans is in good condition and should be for awhile. The biggest issue is the access gate at Echo Lake being closed due to weather, ice on the road, or rock fall and CDOT/NF might not open the gate until 9am on a good day. Check CDOT Twitter for current info.

The Sleepy Hallow Cabin, by Lincoln Falls has seen better days. This sure would make a cool back country hut if it was managed properly!
Looking towards Lincoln Falls.
Looking towards Lincoln Falls.


Sleepy Hallow
Sleepy Hallow

FLAG


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