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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Sep 26, 2013
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP.

Kevin Gillest wrote:
For at least 10 years, mid-Sept/early Oct would roll around and I would get an email from Jack Roberts about what have I heard, have I climbed anything yet... Now another year has past, looks like we are all be on our own to do all of those approaches, instead of emailing Jack. Jack Roberts was CO ice climbing at its finest, always knew who got the seasonal FA, who had climbed what that season, and always let you know that your hopeful FA was already climbed. Another year of missing Jack


<3


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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Sep 26, 2013
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP.

...and also, more precip is coming in this weekend and Long's Peak and Bear Lake trailheads are open again! Here we go!


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Sep 27, 2013
another day in RMNP

"Long's Peak and Bear Lake trailheads are open again!"

Huge relief. Now just the wait for Boulder Canyon...

CDOT: Boulder Canyon to reopen by 'mid- to late October'
www.coloradodaily.com/latest-stories/ci_24182541/boulder-can>>>


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By Buff Johnson
Sep 27, 2013
smiley face

Is Lincoln in yet?


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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Sep 27, 2013
Manning face

Buff Johnson wrote:
Is Lincoln in yet?



Forecast shows nighttime lows there between 16 and 32 degrees for the next week st 12,000 ft. I doubt it's in yet, but give it a week? And tools will need sharpening


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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Sep 27, 2013
Mt. Churchill, University Range

Lincoln Falls might take awhile to form because of to much water flow, the streams are raging and not allowing for good formation, plus don't knock down what is there, yet:)

You will have better luck up at Blue Lake and McCullough Gulch by Quandry www.mountainproject.com/v/quandary-peakblue-lakes/106716113. Noxious Fumes and Claim Jumper are both in excellent condition and there's a new pitch that needs a FA in the descent gully of Claim Jumper.
The Blue Lakes region is holding a couple of jems. These two are right above the lake on North Star Peak and go at about WI3 M4 400ft and there's a rap anchor in place.

Yukon Jack.
Yukon Jack.


2nd pitch of Yukon Jack.
2nd pitch of Yukon Jack.


Goldschlager, M1-2, 120ft.
Goldschlager, M1-2, 120ft.


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By Alex Banas
From CO
Sep 28, 2013

Oh ya Yukon jack in real nice


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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Sep 29, 2013
Mt. Churchill, University Range

Get your "man pants on" for the Colorado version of Canadian Rockies mixed climbing. North Star hasn't looked this good in eight or so years. It's in fat and blue, including the right hand runnel variation. Get on this one before it sublimates out. This photo is about a week old, the ice is very nice!

North Star.
North Star.


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By Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Sep 30, 2013
Laps in Ouray

Next to Black Wall.
Next to Black Wall.


Next to the Black Wall near Mt Evans. There are other chimneys in the area that have ice in them.


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By Buff Johnson
Sep 30, 2013
smiley face

How about now...is lincoln in yet, I need to tr a killa pillah


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By Clayton James
From Boulder, Colorado
Oct 1, 2013

SOFA KING PSYCHED!!!! Thanks for the updates fellas!


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By topher donahue
Oct 1, 2013

SMEAR OF FEAR IS IN! Yesterday it was 2-4 inches thick for 400 feet but will be fatter with the next cold snap. Too bad the Feds just shut it down. Sofa king pissed.

See photos from September 30th, 2013, ascent in thin conditions here.

Smear of Fear and Crazy Train good to go.
Smear of Fear and Crazy Train good to go.


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By Mike Walley
From Louisville, CO
Oct 1, 2013
Mike on West Gully RMNP

Nice photos and good blog Topher. You are right about BIG government too! How did Alexander's Chimney look?


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By Jason Maki
Oct 1, 2013

Something tells me that despite it being "closed", smear of fear will have a line on it Saturday morning.


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By erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Oct 1, 2013
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good

Is Martha in yet?


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By TKD
Oct 4, 2013

Just spent Wed and Thur climbing around Quandry/N Star region. Climbed Claim Jumper and the pitch of ice in the descent gully to the left of Claim Jumper. Claim Jumper was nice and moderate. We were able to sink 10 and 13cm screws and lots of rock gear for protection. The other pitch in the descent gully went about WI 3/3+ depending how you started and was around 50 meters long. Protected with 10 and 13cm screws as well. Both climbs had plenty of running water. Got on N Star on Thursday the right hand ice start is not in at the moment and the left start was thin and not well bonded looking. The the upper ice pitches were in great shape though.


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By coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 4, 2013
Indian Creek Climbing

Anyone know what Pyramid looks like?

www.mountainproject.com/v/the-2012-13-colorado-ice-condition>>>


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By RobC2
Oct 5, 2013
This..

topher donahue wrote:
SMEAR OF FEAR IS IN! Yesterday it was 2-4 inches thick for 400 feet but will be fatter with the next cold snap. Too bad the Feds just shut it down. Sofa king pissed. See photos from September 30th, 2013, ascent in thin conditions here.


Did that one back in the 90s looks about the same...


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By GLD
Oct 5, 2013

Quandary Ice Crags are starting to form but are not solid enough to be in. We basically dry tooled around the routes.


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By Jason Maki
Oct 5, 2013

Taylor-B. wrote:
Lincoln Falls might take awhile to form because of to much water flow, the streams are raging and not allowing for good formation, plus don't knock down what is there, yet:) You will have better luck up at Blue Lake and McCullough Gulch by Quandry www.mountainproject.com/v/quandary-peakblue-lakes/106716113. Noxious Fumes and Claim Jumper are both in excellent condition and there's a new pitch that needs a FA in the descent gully of Claim Jumper. The Blue Lakes region is holding a couple of jems. These two are right above the lake on North Star Peak and go at about WI3 M4 400ft and there's a rap anchor in place.


Yukon Jack and Goldschlager are now out, or "out" for most people. North Star looked fatter than ever, definitely better than the recent beta photos.

Lincoln Falls- out, give it a couple more weeks
Officers Gulch - bone dry


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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Oct 5, 2013
Mt. Churchill, University Range

Good to see lots of traffic up at Blue Lakes. I think I couted 6 six parties up on North Star Peak today. Nice!
Climbed Goat Urea in good conditions.

Goat Urea.
Goat Urea.

Lincoln Falls is good to go, bring rock gear. Let the farmed stuff form up, but the Bowling Alley is good to go, along with a few other moderate pitches and TRs. There's so much water this season that there is no way this place is going to be hacked out in the next few weeks.


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By Kevin Craig
Oct 7, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

News from Eureka... STH, HTH, and Hoser's weren't in yet as of Friday (even for the adventurous), but definitely forming up well - heavily verglassed throughout and the P3 pillar on STH was about 1/3 of the way "down" (but will take a while after it touches to fill in). Gold Rush was looking really good - heavily verglassed on the left wall, nothing in the dihedral yet though. Looked like a tiny bit of ice at the top of P1 of WHH. Didn't have time to drive up S. Mineral, but I assume it's coming along well too. Most of the last storm stayed north of Red Mountain Pass but plenty of moisture everywhere.


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By Clayton James
From Boulder, Colorado
Oct 8, 2013

Made it up to North Star this afternoon. There's definitely some good fun to be had up there. The ice on pitch 2 is shaping up nicely...

North Star.
North Star.


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By Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Oct 9, 2013
Stairway to Heaven

Here's a link to some pictures of Lincoln that cropped up in the "other" 2013-2014 ice conditions thread.

www.mountainproject.com/v/the-2013-2014-colorado-ice-conditi>>>


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Oct 9, 2013

This thread should be renamed 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions...


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