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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Mar 24, 2014
Bocan
eric kramak wrote:
Looks like the last days of ice in CCC. Coors light was pretty hero-rific. First four steps were fine and still well bonded. Didn't climb the final step but it looked pretty solid. Mickey's and Beer Garden appeared quite thin (and possibly delaminating) from the road.


Yeah it was hurting bady yesterday when I drove by.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Mar 24, 2014
Ben Coryell wrote:
Has anyone been up to Black Lake recently? How are things looking? In particular, West Gully. Thanks.


Headed to Black Lake yesterday with hope of climbing the West Gully. There was a quite a bit of snow on the route and the snow slopes above the upper pitches looked scary enough to convince us to climb something else. As a result, we climbed around the Black Lake Slabs for a little while. There was a lot of snow on the slabs as well, and we were post holing to our hips at times slogging around.
JonW
Joined Apr 30, 2010
8 points
Mar 24, 2014
Base of the Black Wall pitch on the Direct Exum
Ben Coryell wrote:
Has anyone been up to Black Lake recently? How are things looking? In particular, West Gully. Thanks.


Was up 5/15-16. West Gully and Slabs were Fat. Stoneman and Yellow Tears were in, but with a lot of snow above. We bailed due to high wind conditions but somewhat joked about climbing West Gully and triggering the snow above Stoneman and Yellow Tears to make it safe. AMU was also pretty loaded above on the hike in.
Ted Eliason
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jun 16, 2009
548 points
Mar 24, 2014
Chillin' at City of Rocks
BBB????
Anyone got a condition report from the last couple of days???
Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
422 points
Mar 24, 2014
me climbing
Martha on Mt Lady Washington was in more of a "winter condition" today. Snow was unconsolidated on the approach and on the route, and there were some touchy wind slabs in the lower part of the route that required tip toeing around. Needs some warmth and sun to ripen up again. Buster Jesik
Joined Jul 11, 2006
435 points
Mar 26, 2014
Has anyone laid eyes on Lincoln Falls in the last few days? I'm curious about both the ice and avy conditions.

Thanks
bcfinucane
From Washington DC
Joined Dec 6, 2013
5 points
Mar 26, 2014
Mountain Bandito
Here is a photo of Lincoln Falls from a few days ago. The pillars on the right have some big horizontal cracks in them, other than that there is still some good climbing to be had. The avalanche stability is good, but there is a storm that is suppose to hit us in the next 24-48hrs!
LF from N. Star.
LF from N. Star.


The North Face of Democrat is in rare fluffy form this spring. Does any one know what the ridge is that forms the right hand skyline in the photo?
.
Democrat from Quandary.
Democrat from Quandary.
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,624 points
Mar 26, 2014
I would guess it's the North Ridge of Democrat

summitpost.org/north-ridge/166...

Even if it's not what's in your picture, it's still worth doing if you're into that sort of thing.
Chad Volk
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 10, 2007
38 points
Mar 27, 2014
At bolt 6 (or 5?)
Has anyone visited the Loch Vale area recently? Ignacio
From Denver, CO
Joined Sep 27, 2010
27 points
Mar 28, 2014
Mountain Bandito
Chad Volk wrote:
I would guess it's the North Ridge of Democrat summitpost.org/north-ridge/166...

Thanks Chad. I got a good look of the N Ridge from Traver Pk and it looked sporty for "3rd class" with lots of snow-gargoyles, double and vertical cornices:) It would be a sweet skimo link up with a descent of the N Face!
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,624 points
Mar 30, 2014
RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
Sent Smokey yesterday at Bear's Den still wet n' burly at the Bear's Den
Rob red-points Smoky at Bear's Den...
Rob red-points Smoky at Bear's Den...
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
198 points
Mar 30, 2014
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Anyone know when Blind Assumption on Pikes comes in. I know it's kind of a phantom route but when would it typically form? I've heard late April/ early May LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Mar 31, 2014
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
^^^This question was asked and answered earlier on page 18.
Funny how threads work that way...
Janette wrote:
Anyone know if Total Abandon or Blind Assumption is back in?

phil wortmann wrote:
TA is rarely in shape in the Spring, usually it dries out over the winter and doesnt return. BA is much more sheltered and is typically in its best shape in May and even June.
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
800 points
Mar 31, 2014
Yosemite
Big Thompson was a fun roadside cruise on Saturday. Erik Tasker
Joined Oct 31, 2010
31 points
Mar 31, 2014
Chillin' at City of Rocks
BBB was most excellent. Great (thin) condition. I give it WI4, M5, 5.8. Six short screws and one set of cams. The last pitch (5.8) has no ice but pro is available when needed. Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
422 points
Apr 1, 2014
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
anyone been to the willow lake ice on the approach to Kit Carson. Saw a recent picture of it on 14ers.com but was wondering if it's all baked out and sublimated already.

I'll be heading up that way this weekend to climb kit carson, just wondering if I should throw the tools on the pack and go for it too?

Thanks,

Seth
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Apr 2, 2014
Looking for conditions on Martha, the Dutchman, and Dreamweaver. Also, mostly curious about the approach to Chasm. Bootpack? Skis? Anyone have any information or pictures? TheBirdman
From Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 4, 2010
10 points
Apr 2, 2014
I was up that way today. Sorry, no photos -- it was a whiteout. There was a large debris pile at the bottom of Lambs' Slide. Then I watched a fairly large avalanche shoot out of the notch couloir and fall down onto mills glacier. I peed my pants and went home. There was 1-2 feet of new storm slab on almost everything, and it was still snowing hard.

I did martha two weeks ago and it was ok, though a bit of a slog. I'd expect the same, but now with more loose snow. I'd guess it will consolidate and improve quickly over the next week or so, depending on conditions. Martha might be the best bet, although I'd wait a bit.

Since the Dutchman and Dreamweaver are similar aspects to Lambs slide (which obviously went big at some point), and all the new storm slab loading the snowpack, I'd be careful with those.

Hope this helps.
Jonathan Awerbuch
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Nov 11, 2013
29 points
Apr 2, 2014
Oh -- the approach: I just bootpacked in, and it was ok more or less. The trail and the shortcuts below treeline are packed well and easy in boots.

Mills moraine, however, has a fair amount of snow and is not tracked out. A light crappy pair of skis might be quicker than boots here, but are not necessary.
Jonathan Awerbuch
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Nov 11, 2013
29 points
Apr 5, 2014
Longs Diamond, Lamb's Slide, etc from Lady Washington noon 5 April 14
Diamond.
Diamond.


Lamb's Slide.
Lamb's Slide.


Diamond/Broadway.
Diamond/Broadway.
Alan Arnette
From Ft. Collins, CO
Joined Dec 20, 2005
20 points
Apr 7, 2014
Vail 4/4

The Fang.
The Fang.


Spiral Staircase.
Spiral Staircase.


Pencil.
Pencil.
mthomas
Joined Sep 25, 2009
51 points
Apr 8, 2014
JonW wrote:
Headed to Black Lake yesterday with hope of climbing the West Gully. There was a quite a bit of snow on the route and the snow slopes above the upper pitches looked scary enough to convince us to climb something else. As a result, we climbed around the Black Lake Slabs for a little while. There was a lot of snow on the slabs as well, and we were post holing to our hips at times slogging around.


Anyone ventured out that way recently? Particularly WG & Stoneman?
Janette
Joined Dec 15, 2011
187 points
Apr 8, 2014
Janette wrote:
Anyone ventured out that way recently? Particularly WG & Stoneman?


I climbed WG just over a week ago, it was in and fat.
MyFeetHurt
From Thornton, CO
Joined Oct 31, 2011
25 points
Apr 9, 2014
More of a ski question, but has anyone taken a look at Dragontail or Dead Elk lately? Is there ice at the top or is it snow all the way? Looking to possibly head up this weekend. Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Apr 9, 2014
Janette wrote:
Anyone ventured out that way recently? Particularly WG & Stoneman?


I was up there this weekend. West Gully was in but covered in snow. Too sketchy for us to attempt.
Joshua Payne
From Los Alamos, NM
Joined May 20, 2013
58 points


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