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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By GLD
Feb 21, 2014
Couldn't edit my last post. A few incidents are statistics but don't prove anything, the forecasts have for all recent memory had discussions about the persistent slab and deep persistent slab and the huge consequences that would be associated with them. PErhaps the new forecast layout is not emphasizing this enough for some people.

Finally, risk assessment is anything but a science. (assessment is different from acceptance) Taking isolated reports and observations and trying to extrapolate across entire zones is extremely difficult. As a user of the front range I often find the variability E-W and N-S huge!!! I think it is incumbent on the user of the forecast still.

FLAG
By Martin Barnett
Feb 24, 2014
If you have ever wanted to do Ames, now is the time. The whole climb (Including the first pitch) is in great shape.

Ames in great shape.
Ames in great shape.


First pitch of Ames.
First pitch of Ames.

FLAG
By Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Feb 24, 2014
Dreamweaver
Taylor-B. wrote:
There has been a lot of talk here in the Vail/Summit Zone among avalanche professionals and recreational users that the CAIC forecast has been inconsistent and unreliable this season. For example, early in the season the CAIC rated the avi danger at a level 2 when it was actually a very realistic level 3 and this gave the public a false sense of risk assessment and Ten Mile Canyon was crawling with climbers in every drainage that week. The other blatant example was the "first big" avalanche cycle in January that the CAIC deemed a level 3 danger, while the rest of the western US (UT,WA,OR,ID,MT) was at a level 4, and when the skies cleared in Summit after the storm there were multiple natural avalanches on EVERY peak that you could see from the valley. The statistics of recent accidents don't lie. The CAIC defends their forecasts as not wanting to "cry wolf" to the public; avalanche science is a science and should be mostly influenced objectively with very little subjective opinion involved. Sorry for the rant, this has been on my mind since December. I hope that we can bury these persistent avalanche issues and enjoy some steep terrain in the near future;)


Spatial variability is the name of the game in with the CO snowpack. It's impossible to make CAIC forecasts apply to every slope angle,aspect and elevation in each the enormous zones they forecast for. Orographics alone causes snowfall amounts to vary widely over small distances (e.g. Abasin vs. Keystone) so all they can do is outline general problems and release general advisories.

As an n=1 observation, I was out in RMNP on a level 4 day with an advisory issued, saw zero signs of instability and safely skied 38 degree slopes all day.

FLAG
By Jikimika Dinglehoffer Merritt
From Lander, Wy
Feb 24, 2014
Bouldering the Punk Rock, Sinks
Got recent photos of Bridal Veil, Ames, The Talisman and more on the site.
pulldownnotout.blogspot.com/


The Talisman, 2-23-14.  Still good.
The Talisman, 2-23-14. Still good.

FLAG
By RobC2
Feb 25, 2014
This..
Peteoria wrote:
Can I please hear some RMNP conditions? Ice, snow, share some gravy! I'm headed that way next week. Ouray conditions: BBB is in great shape! If you're looking to superman your way up then these are the conditions you want. Bring plenty of screws for the ice! The Ribbon is OK, first pitch is hacked, second pitch was quite wet Ice park has seen better days, but there's still good drytooling & ice to be had Telluride Conditions: Ames Ice Hose last pitch is stellar & fat! See person climbing the 3rd pitch in the photo and you'll get it! Ingram looks terrific, but I didn't climb it. The curtain seems to be fully and solidly connected to the cone. Bridal Veil is here, right side is in ultra easy mode and left side has a large horizontal crack just above the steep part on top of the cone. It's right where the person is in the photo. We rapped down and chose to finish up the right side instead.


There is an enormous amount of snow in Rocky at the moment...

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By Daniel Battin
From Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Feb 25, 2014
On Bridelveil
The warm temps in Vail are making the Fang pretty sketch.

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By G Carpenter
From SLC, UT
Feb 27, 2014
One more before topping out! 1/26/14
Can anyone post current conditions of:
- Bridal Veil Falls - Telluride
- Fang
- Rigid Designator - Vail Thanks!

FLAG
By RobC2
Feb 27, 2014
This..
G Carpenter wrote:
Can anyone post current conditions of: - Bridal Veil Falls - Telluride - Fang - Rigid Designator - Vail Thanks!


All in epic shape...

FLAG
 
By Princess Mia
From Vail
Feb 27, 2014
Chillin' at City of Rocks
I just did the Des and the Fang yesterday. The Des is super wet in the middle, but the very left or right sides are fun leads, and not really too hacked out. The Fang is fine, typical style….. small crack 2/3s up and big crack 3/4 up. Lots of water in places….it seems to change a bit day to day.

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By Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Feb 28, 2014
Laps in Ouray
Anyone know where the Guanella Pass road is closed to?

FLAG
By Gretchen 81
From Durango, CO
Mar 1, 2014
Does anyone know when the Ouray Ice Park typically closes for the season?

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By Buff Johnson
Mar 1, 2014
smiley face
end of march, condition dependent.

FLAG
By A.P.Lee
From Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2014
does anyone know how redstone is doing?

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By Chris Gibbs
From Denver, CO
Mar 4, 2014
Monastery
Black Lake climbs are all in. Prepare for deep snow after Mill's Lake.

West Gully.
West Gully.

FLAG
By Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Mar 4, 2014
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.
Jonathan White wrote:
Anyone know where the Guanella Pass road is closed to?


From: coloradodot.info/travel/scenic...

"Clear Creek County will close Guanella Pass Road at the Naylor Lake intersection and approximately 0.8 mile north of the Park/Clear Creek County line on December 2, 2013."

FLAG
By Jeremy Joseph
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 4, 2014
After a day of ice climbing
A.P.Lee wrote:
does anyone know how redstone is doing?



things are getting pretty damaged with the sun, and warm temps. Avacado gully is better then its been all year though, ironically.

FLAG
 
By Martin Barnett
Mar 5, 2014
Bridalveil.
Bridalveil.

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By Martin Barnett
Mar 5, 2014
Ingram Falls.
Ingram Falls.

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By Michael Rickers
From Westminster, CO
Mar 9, 2014
Loft route on Mt. Meeker
Few pics of the Long's Peak Cirque today. Columbine is pretty big, the Smear of Fear looks to be mostly in (at least from a distance).

Columbine Falls
Columbine Falls


The Diamond
The Diamond


Dreamweaver
Dreamweaver

FLAG
By Chris Gibbs
From Denver, CO
Mar 10, 2014
Monastery
Avacado Gully is in fact NOT in, unless of course you like steep sublimated sketchy WI4+.

Marble falls is looking good but we punched through at the top while descending. It may heal but it's difficult to tell with the warm temps. Still a scrary lead at the top over thin ice, tread lightly.

Ames Ice Hose looks good but be prepared for WI5 conditions (WI4++ if you're into sandbagging). Ames Fall was running with another huge hole in it (not climbable) but the Ames Practice Slabs are still climbable.


Avacado Gully P2 sublimated.
Avacado Gully P2 sublimated.


Marble Falls.
Marble Falls.


Hole in Marble Falls.
Hole in Marble Falls.


Ames Ice Hose.
Ames Ice Hose.

FLAG
By Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Mar 10, 2014
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.
Heard Clear Creek is still in. Thinking about hitting up Coors lite pre-work on Wednesday after a good cold night. Any knowledge of the latest conditions from this past weekend?

FLAG
By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Mar 11, 2014
RJN
They are all bomber(clear creek) as of yesterday.

FLAG
By earl mcalister
From idaho
Mar 11, 2014
me
How are conditions in southwestern CO? Any suggestions for ice and mixed that is still in?

FLAG
By Micah Lewkowitz
From Longmont, CO
Mar 12, 2014
A beautiful afternoon in Sedona.
Ames Ice Hose is in great condition, dry on all pitches. First pitch was hooked out and felt more like 4+. 2nd pitch was fat, no rock gear necessary.

Bridalveil Falls is also in, no dripping water but there were certainly a few window panes to moving water. A few transitions have rotten snice that make for easy but spooky moves.

FLAG
 
By Shameless Shaemus
Mar 13, 2014
Are the rumors true? Can it be that The Smear of Fear is actually back in condition? Also, how's Vail looking…Designator etc.

FLAG


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