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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Feb 24, 2014
If you have ever wanted to do Ames, now is the time. The whole climb (Including the first pitch) is in great shape.

Rock Climbing Photo: Ames in great shape.
Ames in great shape.


Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Ames.
First pitch of Ames.
Martin Barnett
Joined Jun 17, 2006
96 points
Feb 24, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Dreamweaver
Taylor-B. wrote:
There has been a lot of talk here in the Vail/Summit Zone among avalanche professionals and recreational users that the CAIC forecast has been inconsistent and unreliable this season. For example, early in the season the CAIC rated the avi danger at a level 2 when it was actually a very realistic level 3 and this gave the public a false sense of risk assessment and Ten Mile Canyon was crawling with climbers in every drainage that week. The other blatant example was the "first big" avalanche cycle in January that the CAIC deemed a level 3 danger, while the rest of the western US (UT,WA,OR,ID,MT) was at a level 4, and when the skies cleared in Summit after the storm there were multiple natural avalanches on EVERY peak that you could see from the valley. The statistics of recent accidents don't lie. The CAIC defends their forecasts as not wanting to "cry wolf" to the public; avalanche science is a science and should be mostly influenced objectively with very little subjective opinion involved. Sorry for the rant, this has been on my mind since December. I hope that we can bury these persistent avalanche issues and enjoy some steep terrain in the near future;)


Spatial variability is the name of the game in with the CO snowpack. It's impossible to make CAIC forecasts apply to every slope angle,aspect and elevation in each the enormous zones they forecast for. Orographics alone causes snowfall amounts to vary widely over small distances (e.g. Abasin vs. Keystone) so all they can do is outline general problems and release general advisories.

As an n=1 observation, I was out in RMNP on a level 4 day with an advisory issued, saw zero signs of instability and safely skied 38 degree slopes all day.
Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2011
21 points
Feb 24, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering the Punk Rock, Sinks
Got recent photos of Bridal Veil, Ames, The Talisman and more on the site.
pulldownnotout.blogspot.com/


Rock Climbing Photo: The Talisman, 2-23-14.  Still good.
The Talisman, 2-23-14. Still good.
Jikimika Dinglehoffer Merritt
From Lander, Wy
Joined Apr 3, 2011
557 points
Feb 25, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
Peteoria wrote:
Can I please hear some RMNP conditions? Ice, snow, share some gravy! I'm headed that way next week. Ouray conditions: BBB is in great shape! If you're looking to superman your way up then these are the conditions you want. Bring plenty of screws for the ice! The Ribbon is OK, first pitch is hacked, second pitch was quite wet Ice park has seen better days, but there's still good drytooling & ice to be had Telluride Conditions: Ames Ice Hose last pitch is stellar & fat! See person climbing the 3rd pitch in the photo and you'll get it! Ingram looks terrific, but I didn't climb it. The curtain seems to be fully and solidly connected to the cone. Bridal Veil is here, right side is in ultra easy mode and left side has a large horizontal crack just above the steep part on top of the cone. It's right where the person is in the photo. We rapped down and chose to finish up the right side instead.


There is an enormous amount of snow in Rocky at the moment...
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
189 points
Feb 25, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: On Bridelveil
The warm temps in Vail are making the Fang pretty sketch. Daniel Battin
From Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Joined Nov 26, 2006
445 points
Feb 27, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: One more before topping out! 1/26/14
Can anyone post current conditions of:
- Bridal Veil Falls - Telluride
- Fang
- Rigid Designator - Vail Thanks!
G Carpenter
From SLC, UT
Joined Dec 17, 2013
202 points
Feb 27, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
G Carpenter wrote:
Can anyone post current conditions of: - Bridal Veil Falls - Telluride - Fang - Rigid Designator - Vail Thanks!


All in epic shape...
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
189 points
Feb 27, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin' at City of Rocks
I just did the Des and the Fang yesterday. The Des is super wet in the middle, but the very left or right sides are fun leads, and not really too hacked out. The Fang is fine, typical style….. small crack 2/3s up and big crack 3/4 up. Lots of water in places….it seems to change a bit day to day. Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
459 points
Feb 28, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Laps in Ouray
Anyone know where the Guanella Pass road is closed to? Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Joined Aug 22, 2005
114 points
Mar 1, 2014
Does anyone know when the Ouray Ice Park typically closes for the season? Gretchen 81
From Durango, CO
Joined Oct 28, 2011
31 points
Mar 1, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Rrrrr
end of march, condition dependent. Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,506 points
Mar 4, 2014
does anyone know how redstone is doing? A.P.Lee
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 11, 2012
21 points
Mar 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Monastery
Black Lake climbs are all in. Prepare for deep snow after Mill's Lake.

Rock Climbing Photo: West Gully.
West Gully.
Chris Gibbs
From Denver, CO
Joined Feb 13, 2011
56 points
Mar 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading out on P2 of Estrelitta, El Potrero Chico,...
Jonathan White wrote:
Anyone know where the Guanella Pass road is closed to?


From: coloradodot.info/travel/scenic...

"Clear Creek County will close Guanella Pass Road at the Naylor Lake intersection and approximately 0.8 mile north of the Park/Clear Creek County line on December 2, 2013."
Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Joined Jan 28, 2010
165 points
Mar 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: After a day of ice climbing
A.P.Lee wrote:
does anyone know how redstone is doing?



things are getting pretty damaged with the sun, and warm temps. Avacado gully is better then its been all year though, ironically.
Jeremy Joseph
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined May 31, 2011
446 points
Mar 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Bridalveil.
Bridalveil.
Martin Barnett
Joined Jun 17, 2006
96 points
Mar 5, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Ingram Falls.
Ingram Falls.
Martin Barnett
Joined Jun 17, 2006
96 points
Mar 9, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Loft route on Mt. Meeker
Few pics of the Long's Peak Cirque today. Columbine is pretty big, the Smear of Fear looks to be mostly in (at least from a distance).

Rock Climbing Photo: Columbine Falls
Columbine Falls


Rock Climbing Photo: The Diamond
The Diamond


Rock Climbing Photo: Dreamweaver
Dreamweaver
Michael Rickers
From Westminster, CO
Joined Feb 11, 2011
30 points
Mar 10, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Monastery
Avacado Gully is in fact NOT in, unless of course you like steep sublimated sketchy WI4+.

Marble falls is looking good but we punched through at the top while descending. It may heal but it's difficult to tell with the warm temps. Still a scrary lead at the top over thin ice, tread lightly.

Ames Ice Hose looks good but be prepared for WI5 conditions (WI4++ if you're into sandbagging). Ames Fall was running with another huge hole in it (not climbable) but the Ames Practice Slabs are still climbable.


Rock Climbing Photo: Avacado Gully P2 sublimated.
Avacado Gully P2 sublimated.


Rock Climbing Photo: Marble Falls.
Marble Falls.


Rock Climbing Photo: Hole in Marble Falls.
Hole in Marble Falls.


Rock Climbing Photo: Ames Ice Hose.
Ames Ice Hose.
Chris Gibbs
From Denver, CO
Joined Feb 13, 2011
56 points
Mar 10, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading out on P2 of Estrelitta, El Potrero Chico,...
Heard Clear Creek is still in. Thinking about hitting up Coors lite pre-work on Wednesday after a good cold night. Any knowledge of the latest conditions from this past weekend? Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Joined Jan 28, 2010
165 points
Mar 11, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: RJN
They are all bomber(clear creek) as of yesterday. Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
173 points
Mar 11, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping Fitz
How are conditions in southwestern CO? Any suggestions for ice and mixed that is still in? earl mcalister
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Aug 11, 2010
106 points
Mar 12, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Which way to the summit?
Ames Ice Hose is in great condition, dry on all pitches. First pitch was hooked out and felt more like 4+. 2nd pitch was fat, no rock gear necessary.

Bridalveil Falls is also in, no dripping water but there were certainly a few window panes to moving water. A few transitions have rotten snice that make for easy but spooky moves.
Micah Lewkowitz
From Ridgway, CO
Joined Mar 4, 2009
91 points
Mar 13, 2014
Are the rumors true? Can it be that The Smear of Fear is actually back in condition? Also, how's Vail looking…Designator etc. Shameless Shaemus
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Joined Jun 3, 2009
82 points
Mar 13, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Bugaboos, 1978 Photo by Ken Trout
Desi. was fun early last Monday, felt a bit steeper than last time I was on it, had some wetness going though, drips and some soft ice, we were glad to get out before it got too warm. Fang was still up. Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2003
1,594 points


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