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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Jan 7, 2014
RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
Eric and Lucie wrote:
Curious about the Fang... anyone been close to it? Does it looks climbable? Did it make it through the cold snap without... snapping? Is the cable in place inside of it? Looks good on the picture but I don't see signs of traffic. Wondering why.


Will Mayo saw a youngish guy heading up it and called him down, I wasn't going to say anything but the guy had his GF and her pal holding the rope pretty much right under the thing so a triple fatality looked inevitable if (when) the thing collapsed. The guy got up to the start of the pillar poked around a bit complained that it was "all chandeliered", he finally climbed down after the GF expressed doubt, threw his tools in the snow then departed.

We climbed behind the Fang all day as it emitted various popping and booming noises (think Kate Winslet on the deck of the Titanic). It gave off one ominous boom as Will surmounted the upper bit after departing Stratofortress, I fled as far towards Amphibian as I dared given Will's need for a conscientious belay.

I suppose if your life is worth one pitch of cruel-looking ice then by all means go for it otherwise I would give this article a wide berth for the time being.

As I recall it did collapse on some bloke a few years back. One year I led it and it came down the following day sometime during the night...
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
198 points
Jan 7, 2014
Mountain Bandito
I think the best way to save the Fang from collapsing is to chop out the water source and get it running on top of the ice, not sure if that black piece of PBC piping is still around. This method worked good to get the Lincoln pillars fat this year. Unless we get a wicked cold snap the water will just erode the Fang from the inside-out. Big props to the Herculean effort for getting the cable up there. Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,494 points
Jan 8, 2014
I'm looking for a partner to do some ice climbing tomorrow. I will be up in the Dillon area. Was thinking of climbing something in ten mile canyon but am down for anything. I just have my crampons, tools and boots. So you'd need to bring some gear! But it would be a blast! Please text or call me if your interested

303-325-6567
tomrobinson
From San Diego/ Denver
Joined Jan 10, 2013
23 points
Jan 8, 2014
el guapo
Redstone is looking great, latest report here. BJ Sbarra
From Carbondale, CO
Joined Aug 3, 2006
810 points
Jan 9, 2014
Climbing pose in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
Anything shaping up in Clear Creek Canyon? Nathan Jones
From Littleton, CO
Joined Dec 22, 2009
7 points
Jan 9, 2014
Does anyone have any conditions or current beta on Al Mixed Up? rockclimber50
Joined Oct 23, 2009
106 points
Jan 9, 2014
Dreamweaver
rockclimber50 wrote:
Does anyone have any conditions or current beta on Al Mixed Up?


I bet it's wind-slab-o-riffic!
Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2011
15 points
Jan 9, 2014
Yea there's a lot of ice in clear creek, but it's been climbed a lot. Lots of jug hooking tomrobinson
From San Diego/ Denver
Joined Jan 10, 2013
23 points
Jan 9, 2014
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
rockclimber50 wrote:
Does anyone have any conditions or current beta on Al Mixed Up?


I got a pretty good look at it from Mills Lake yesterday en route to Black Lake and it did not look windloaded above the route but there was certainly considerable snow at the base of the route that could be cause for some concern. Ice still looks great though. Check it out for yourself though!
Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,578 points
Jan 10, 2014
How about Boulder Canyon? Anything fully formed there? Nathan Hoobler
Joined Sep 25, 2006
78 points
Jan 10, 2014
I had a look at the upper flow in Boulder Canyon last weekend. Not sure what you consider "fully formed" these days, but there is a smear that thickened in the previous week to the point of looking climbable. It looked thin near the top and it tops out in a big bush below the aqueduct. mcoopwood
Joined Jun 21, 2009
51 points
Jan 11, 2014
Hit Big Thompson today. The lower flow is in pretty good shape, seems to be rebuilding pretty well. Upper flow is not as good, with ponds at the big step. Also, lots of exposed rock. Right side is pretty beat up. Also, there are no slings on top of things as in years past, so be prepared to walk off every thing. Brian Scoggins
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 12, 2002
1,074 points
Administrator
Jan 12, 2014
Secret Waterfall in CCC is in but a bit on the soft side. It's not as fat as the photo on the route page. The hike down from the Beaver Brook trail down the drainage is takes a while. Consider at least a 60m rope. It's probably 160' from the tree to the bottom of the ice, though you can get an anchor in ~100' down. Someone else had already visited it recently.

1/11/14.  The thread and screw are ~100' from the ...
1/11/14. The thread and screw are ~100' from the rap tree.


FWIW, the ice at N. Table Mt. is there but the trail just above and below (Mesa Top Trail) are closed due to the rain washout. There are 3 lines there, one is sunrotted, one is very delicate WI5?
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,170 points
Jan 13, 2014
On the Summit of the Petit Grepon
Anyone know what conditions are like for routes on Mount Evans? Nick Fatseas
From Denver, CO
Joined May 25, 2011
66 points
Jan 13, 2014
Thrill is Gone
Upper Haflin Canyon is not quite touching down, although there is fat ice to the left. There is also a two pitch climb that came in a canyon to the South. I haven't seen if form in the years I've lived here.
Upper Haflin, 1/10.
Upper Haflin, 1/10.


Climb I haven't seen in before.  It's taller than ...
Climb I haven't seen in before. It's taller than it looks. 1/10.


2nd pitch of climb that is rarely in.
2nd pitch of climb that is rarely in.
ozman
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
552 points
Jan 14, 2014
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
The Phantom of North Cheyenne Canyon
The Phantom.
The Phantom.

Anybody climb this recently?
I haven't seen ice up here in years.
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
796 points
Jan 14, 2014
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
If your looking for a challenge, get on soul on ice (or stone free for that matter) There both probably a bit fatter now. About 5 pure ice routes in.


SOI.
SOI.



SOI.
SOI.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
979 points
Jan 16, 2014
Personal Photo
Not really conditions but thought folks might like this short video put together by the technical director of the AMGA - : How to Place an Ice Screw on Lead sanjuanmtnguide
Joined Oct 24, 2013
5 points
Jan 16, 2014
A buddy keeps asking me to take him up to Lincoln Falls, anyone been up their lately? I have to admit I've been too busy to climb much this season or pay close attention to conditions. We are thinking of heading up this weekend. Is there avy danger for Lincoln Falls with the snow fall from earlier in the week? I think the climbs are past the normal run out for the bowls above. Is the ice sublimated and rotten? Any info would be great. Any other nice WI3 climbs to suggest? I've been eyeing Hully Gully but am thinking a week day trip might be best. Walt L
From Denver, CO
Joined Apr 7, 2010
5 points
Jan 16, 2014
Laps in Ouray
Lincoln is in great shape. Plenty of variety. Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Joined Aug 22, 2005
113 points
Jan 17, 2014
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Anybody got any beta on paradise falls aka the spout near Buena Vista? LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Jan 17, 2014
Viking helmet cover, yep.
Girlfriend wants to get out tomorrow, anyone know conditions on Moffatt Tunnel and/or Hidden Falls? Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Joined May 23, 2009
43 points
Jan 17, 2014
Abram Herman wrote:
Girlfriend wants to get out tomorrow, anyone know conditions on Moffatt Tunnel and/or Hidden Falls?


Hidden Falls (in Glenwood Canyon) is fat, and the tyrolean is in. Be very discrete while on the railroad tracks....reports of citations from the sheriff for trespassing.
tom bohanon
Joined Jan 24, 2006
26 points
Jan 17, 2014
0
The phantom is better as a mixed ie more rock route right now .

It was better winter of 07 .
iceman777
From Colorado Springs
Joined Oct 19, 2007
65 points
Jan 18, 2014
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
tom bohanon wrote:
Hidden Falls (in Glenwood Canyon) is fat, and the tyrolean is in. Be very discrete while on the railroad tracks....reports of citations from the sheriff for trespassing.


Tyrolean? Must have missed it. River was frozen enough to walk on...kind of

For those that like to take advantage of trenches, get on hidden falls now. We broke trail a couple days ago.....let me correct that.....we swam up the gully to the base.


Glenwood ice.
Glenwood ice.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
979 points


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