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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Dec 28, 2013
After a day of ice climbing
Have a pair of Mountain Hardwear Bazuka gloves in a size small for sale. Got them for very cheap at a sale, and they are a bit to small. Only used them 4 or 5 times. Asking 90 bucks for em. Let me know if your interested!!! Jeremy Joseph
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined May 31, 2011
431 points
Dec 28, 2013
At the village in Hunza Valley, Karakoram, Pakista...
Does anyone know if the Upper and Lower Falls in Big Thompson Canyon are in? Ali Jaffri
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jan 28, 2005
701 points
Dec 28, 2013
Laps in Ouray
RD is in, a bit chandeliered below 3/4.
Ridged Designator.
Ridged Designator.


Fang looks interesting
Fang.
Fang.
Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Joined Aug 22, 2005
113 points
Dec 29, 2013
Personal Photo
Freshly updated Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride Ice Conditions here:

Ouray, Silverton, Telluride Ice Conditions
sanjuanmtnguide
Joined Oct 24, 2013
5 points
Dec 29, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Anybody know what Longs/Meeker cirque looks like? Specifically Alexander's and Datk Star LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Dec 29, 2013
another day in RMNP
LawHous wrote:
Anybody know what Longs/Meeker cirque looks like? Specifically Alexander's and Datk Star


I was on Alexander's last Saturday. It was still pretty good but thinning out. The chockstone pitch was mostly dry but had good hooks. I did Dreamweaver yesterday, and while descending via the loft, I could see that darkstar was in a similar state as dreamweaver: dry.

I am hoping to check out Field's this coming weekend, if anyone has been up there recently...
Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points
Jan 2, 2014
Does anyone have a report for Hoosier Pass? Sean in Oxford
From Oxford, Ohio
Joined Jun 10, 2012
0 points
Jan 2, 2014
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Sean in Oxford wrote:
Does anyone have a report for Hoosier Pass?


If you mean Lincoln Falls, it's fatter than it's been in 20 years.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Jan 3, 2014
RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
Will Mayo on his new. m13 at Vail, Stratofortress. when he made the ice he hadn't brought any screws but topped out anyway...
Stratofortress.  Photo by Rob Cordery-Cotter, Will...
Stratofortress.

Photo by Rob Cordery-Cotter, Will Mayo climbing.
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
198 points
Jan 3, 2014
Is Hully Gully in? dcohn
Joined May 28, 2006
430 points
Jan 3, 2014
dcohn wrote:
Is Hully Gully in?

See pics on pg 9 from about a month ago.
Jeff Shafer
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Joined Apr 7, 2010
1 points
Jan 4, 2014
Climbed All Mixed Up on Thursday. Fat ice, took 12 and 16cm screws everywhere. No rock pro needed until the last anchor. The snow seemed solid, we weren't too concerned about the snowfields below the fourth pitch or at the top sliding, though we crossed on belay.

Philip Magistro
Joined Dec 20, 2013
0 points
Jan 4, 2014
Shredded by the Center Route.
Ramona Falls is in but thin.  Hully Gully is fat. ...
Ramona Falls is in but thin.
Hully Gully is fat.
Great year for Colorado Springs ice.
phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Joined Feb 23, 2005
664 points
Jan 4, 2014
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.
HardCor on the main column at Moffatt Tunnel.
HardCor on the main column at Moffatt Tunnel.


Got out to Moffatt Tunnel this afternoon. Main flow on the North facing wall is coming in nicely but it was getting a bit damp towards the end of the day. The big column on the left is still a chandelier but it took Cor's screws. Good day!
Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Joined Jan 28, 2010
154 points
Jan 5, 2014
Falling
Anyone been to wolfcreek recently? I'm planing on taking the wife down to the chain station or there abouts in a few days and any new beta would be appreciate. Thanks Buck
Joined Mar 19, 2005
34 points
Jan 5, 2014
Just spent the last 4 days ice climbing in SW Colorado. Overall routes are in excellent condition. Here is a brief break down of conditions on routes we climbed

Skylight Area: (1/2/14) Lots of ice on all routes with conditions being very favorable for sending. Climbed the Skylight and the 2nd pitch crux had good quality ice and plenty of hooks and steps. There is a V-thread in the lower 1/3 of the chimney pitch.

Stairway to Heaven: (1/3/14) Very fat conditions with many variations. The 3rd pitch was pretty wet in the middle. Many V-threads along the route. Very crowded on Friday when we climbed it.

No Thoroughfare Falls: (1/4/14). Very fat ice on this waterfall. Super cool location and very scenic. Fixed bolted anchors ~70ft up and another set above the pillar apron 70ft up from the previous anchors. Ideal to lead in 1 pitch that would be about 140ft. Chains at the top to rap off. No rock gear needed.


J. Spitzer leading the 3rd pitch of Stairway to He...
J. Spitzer leading the 3rd pitch of Stairway to Heaven.


Overview of Stairway to Heaven.
Overview of Stairway to Heaven.




No Thoroughfare Falls.
No Thoroughfare Falls.
jspitzer
Joined Oct 4, 2011
219 points
Jan 6, 2014
Me belaying: Talisman
Buck wrote:
Anyone been to wolfcreek recently? I'm planing on taking the wife down to the chain station or there abouts in a few days and any new beta would be appreciate. Thanks


Ice on Wolf Creek pass is looking OK. Treasure is in and is very steep, and thin at the top. A couple of other climbs are touching down further up the pass but overall not the best ice conditions for Wolf Creek Pass in recent years
Timmy Foulkes
Joined Jan 17, 2011
14 points
Jan 6, 2014
Buck wrote:
Anyone been to wolfcreek recently? I'm planing on taking the wife down to the chain station or there abouts in a few days and any new beta would be appreciate. Thanks


Chainstation is in but not great. We ended up going to Big Meadows about 2 weeks ago. Things there were in good shape, short approach but snowshoes required.
Joshua Payne
From Los Alamos, NM
Joined May 20, 2013
58 points
Jan 6, 2014
Curious about the Fang... anyone been close to it?
Does it looks climbable?
Did it make it through the cold snap without... snapping?
Is the cable in place inside of it?
Looks good on the picture but I don't see signs of traffic. Wondering why.
Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 14, 2004
153 points
Jan 6, 2014
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Eric and Lucie wrote:
Curious about the Fang... anyone been close to it? Does it looks climbable? Did it make it through the cold snap without... snapping? Is the cable in place inside of it? Looks good on the picture but I don't see signs of traffic. Wondering why.


Think it's only been lead twice. Some fracture lines. It moved on Will while climbing near the top. (gunshot sound). The way it formed with the cable, it seems to be leaning not in a stable way. Should fill in hopefully.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
979 points
Jan 7, 2014
Was up there yesterday and it was creaking and cracking - has a bit of a lean. Big curtain to the left of RD broke off mid-afternoon and almost killed two guys hanging in the cave left of RD. Big blocks..... Paul Gagner
Joined Oct 9, 2007
24 points
Jan 7, 2014
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Any chance of Alexander's being in better shape than a few weeks ago? I figure with all the warm temps followed by cold temps it may have filled in some of the thinner spots. Any info or beta on the current route conditions would be great. Thanks LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Jan 7, 2014
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
Had the ice all to my lonesome yesterday.
Silver Cascade Selfie 1-6-14
Silver Cascade Selfie 1-6-14

It was 15 degrees at the parking lot by noon.
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
796 points
Jan 7, 2014
Bugaboos, 1978 Photo by Ken Trout
Paul Gagner wrote:
Was up there yesterday and it was creaking and cracking - has a bit of a lean. Big curtain to the left of RD broke off mid-afternoon and almost killed two guys hanging in the cave left of RD. Big blocks.....


Yow!!! That's one helluva escape!!! Those blocks are fuckin' huge! One landed square on the "safe zone" cave belay area on the left side of the Desi.

Must've been a close scrape for sure.
Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2003
1,550 points
Jan 7, 2014
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Tom-o Sapien wrote:
Had the ice all to my lonesome yesterday. It was 15 degrees at the parking lot by noon.


Looks like everyone was out skiing!
doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
436 points


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