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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Dec 11, 2013
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.
Scott McMahon wrote:
Go back one page for a report from 4 days ago.


Awesome, missed that completely. Thanks Scott.
Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Joined Jan 28, 2010
154 points
Dec 13, 2013
phil wortmann wrote:
Springs ice is shaping up well.



Any access to Silver Cascade/Cheyenne Canyon? Thinking of bouldering some tomorrow if I can get in, either off Gold Camp or the canyon.
ted cookson
Joined Dec 13, 2013
0 points
Dec 13, 2013
0
No yet t iceman777
From Colorado Springs
Joined Oct 19, 2007
65 points
Dec 13, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
ted cookson wrote:
Any access to Silver Cascade/Cheyenne Canyon? Thinking of bouldering some tomorrow if I can get in, either off Gold Camp or the canyon.

The park opens up on the 21st I believe
LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Dec 13, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Jaws is in!!


Jaws Falls 12/13/13
Jaws Falls 12/13/13
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Dec 15, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Went up to the Loch Yesterday. I'm pretty sure it's safe to say that EVERYTHING is in as well as smears and curtains that never form up. Here are some pictures from the hike in.


All Mixed Up vicinity.
All Mixed Up vicinity.



All Mixed Up.
All Mixed Up.



NW Gully-Thatchtop ice.
NW Gully-Thatchtop ice.
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Dec 15, 2013
At bolt 6 (or 5?)
Anybody been to the Black Lake slabs recently? I'm assuming those would be all in by now, right? Ignacio
From Denver, CO
Joined Sep 27, 2010
27 points
Dec 16, 2013
Thrill is Gone
Micah Lewkowitz wrote:
I was surprised to read that the Ames Ice Hose was reported as in good condition. I backed off 20 feet up the second pitch on Saturday 12/7 due to sublimated, non supportable snice. The first pitch is in fatter than the other 2 times I've been on the route but the second classic pitch wasn't even worth climbing in my opinion. The 3rd pitch looked wide and fat from below, but hard to say definitively. Sapphire Bullets of Pure Ice was in good condition, though thin in spots and some seriously deep snow wallowing on the approach. Pitch 1 is steep and chandeliered extensively, mixed climbing out right is a bit easier.

Thanks for the tip on sapphire bullets! It was in excellent shape this weekend. thanks for the trail as well! The route is so fat now, the ice grade is 5+ but the mixed grade is lower at like m4!

One of the best climbs in the L48, every pitch is like the second pitch of the ice hose but much steeper. Get on it everybody!
ozman
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
552 points
 
Dec 16, 2013
No Thoroughfare Canyon. Colorado National Monument...
No Thoroughfare Canyon. Colorado National Monument, December 16th.
Dave Deming
From Grand Junction CO
Joined Jul 15, 2009
27 points
Dec 17, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Goldrush is super fat including an extra 1/4 pitch at the top and is recently bolted for belays/rappels top-to-bottom by San Juan Mountain Guides (thanks Nate and Mark!).

BBB continues to have a ton of ice on it. The 1.5 pitch of chockstones at the top are just as challenging as ever though. There seems to be a rumor circulating that it's M4 in current conditions. I'd say it's still a solid 5+/6-
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Dec 17, 2013
After a day of ice climbing
Dave Deming wrote:


Regarding the picture of thoroughfare canyon.....did you guys climb it? How is the chimney part in upper part of the pic, looks a little thin?
Jeremy Joseph
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined May 31, 2011
431 points
Dec 17, 2013
Notyet, this was a recon run for a Friday morning climb. The right side of the ice had some running water, the left side was solid, if chandeliered for the first fifteen feet. Hopefully it stays cool and shady and I'll get a shot at it. Upper piller seems about 3 feet around, or so, couldn't really get a good angle. Dave Deming
From Grand Junction CO
Joined Jul 15, 2009
27 points
Dec 17, 2013
Any word on the conditions in the Firehouse and Racquet Club areas at Vail? bcfinucane
From Washington DC
Joined Dec 6, 2013
5 points
Dec 17, 2013
Summit shot
Kevin Craig wrote:
Goldrush is super fat including an extra 1/4 pitch at the top and is recently bolted for belays/rappels top-to-bottom by San Juan Mountain Guides (thanks Nate and Mike!). BBB continues to have a ton of ice on it. The 1.5 pitch of chockstones at the top are just as challenging as ever though. There seems to be a rumor circulating that it's M4 in current conditions. I'd say it's still a solid 5+/6-


P1 of Goldrush.  Definitely not thin this year.
P1 of Goldrush. Definitely not thin this year.


The Ribbon and BBB as 12-7-13.
The Ribbon and BBB as 12-7-13.
Drew McLean
From Colorado
Joined Oct 16, 2006
378 points
Dec 18, 2013
Can anyone tell me about the shape of Officer's Gulch? Particularly The Shroud? I am assuming with the low avy danger, that this area is safe for now? Thanks! Sally G.
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2010
30 points
Dec 18, 2013
black nasty
You should be good to go Sally. It's fat. Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,169 points
 
Dec 18, 2013
Mountain Bandito
The Shroud is good to go, there are some solar issues in the afternoon and that is obvious by the huge rock fall on the bike path.

The Vail ass-luge from the Firehouse and The Spiral Staircase are in sporty shape;)
The Shroud.
The Shroud.
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,469 points
Dec 18, 2013
Kirk Couloir Challenger Peak
Tony's Nightmare has a ton of loose snow (thigh deep) covered in wind slabs just above the ice on the second pitch. Watch out there ... LIV
Joined Dec 28, 2007
497 points
Dec 18, 2013
Looks great! Thanks all. Sally G.
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2010
30 points
Dec 19, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Though generally regarded as having no avy danger, there have been at least a couple of avalanche accidents on the Shroud over the years that I am aware of including one fatality. There is apparently a hidden slope that feeds into it. Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Dec 19, 2013
Anyone been on north star lately? Steven N
From CO
Joined Dec 26, 2004
53 points
Dec 19, 2013
How's Stairway to Heaven in Eureka looking? Dave Wise
Joined Jun 18, 2006
49 points
Dec 19, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Stairway's good to go though not as fat as one would expect based on everything else.

Anyone know if The Squid survived the warm weather?
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Dec 20, 2013
me on my redpoint
Everything in Silverton is FAT! ah yea! Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
 
Dec 20, 2013
Boulder Canyon ice, lower falls is virtually nonexistent. Philip Magistro
Joined Dec 20, 2013
0 points


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