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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Oct 30, 2012
Routes on the North Face of Mt Sneffels are in great shape right now. The "North Central Couloir" (to the left of the North Buttress and the Snake Couloir) is currently 1200' of ice, pretty much top to bottom.


Base of the "North Central Couloir" WI/A...
Base of the "North Central Couloir" WI/AI3, M3ish.



Starting up the "North Central Couloir".
Starting up the "North Central Couloir".



"North Central Couloir".
"North Central Couloir".
Vic
Joined Aug 12, 2010
543 points
Oct 30, 2012
Kevin Gillest wrote:
Lincoln Upper Right-Side Entire Lincoln Falls Ice, as of 12 noon Oct 28th. Great conditions, the maintenance work/farming has really paid off, hats off to all involved! Ice growing in places I have never seen in the past



Wow definately a LOT of work going on up there.
Steven N
From CO
Joined Dec 26, 2004
53 points
Oct 31, 2012
Went up yesterday into the Mt. Meeker cirque and climbed the Flying Dutchman. I posted a full conditions report at elevatedattitude.com.

elevatedattitude.com/dailylife...
Phil Magistro
Joined Nov 22, 2009
2 points
Nov 1, 2012
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP...
Lincoln looks great this year! I had no idea there was farming and work being done up there until a friend at work mentioned it. Anyone from MP involved? If so, I definitely will buy you a beer once I get up there and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Cheers! Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2009
46 points
Nov 1, 2012
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.
Anyone been in Fields chimney? Saw that Phil ran into some peeps who did it recently... Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 15, 2011
152 points
Nov 1, 2012
First morning at Indian Creek!!!
Ice Conditions: The Flying Dutchman [10/31/2012]

Phil Magistro wrote:
Went up yesterday into the Mt. Meeker cirque and climbed the Flying Dutchman. I posted a full conditions report at elevatedattitude.com. elevatedattitude.com/dailylife...


Phil,

Thanks for kicking that perfect staircase in there for me. It made for a fun an quick ascent!

Here are some pics from yesterday to supplement Phil's Report:

Flying Dutchman, Chasm Lake is nice and frozen!
Flying Dutchman, Chasm Lake is nice and frozen!




Meaty Goodness on The Flying Dutchman.
Meaty Goodness on The Flying Dutchman.




Ice on The Loft.
Ice on The Loft.




Ice flows feeding Peacock Pool - not bad!
Ice flows feeding Peacock Pool - not bad!
J Antin
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2009
1,031 points
Nov 1, 2012
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
For those curious about Fields Chimney conditions...These photos from a couple weeks ago.

Fields Chimney a couple weeks ago.
Fields Chimney a couple weeks ago.

FC fun.
FC fun.

More fun.
More fun.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
997 points
Nov 1, 2012
Imaginate
So what is the best way down from Flying Dutchman? I'm thinking about soloing, do you need a rope to get down a section of the loft? David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
350 points
Nov 1, 2012
Go without a rope and downclimb the loft! Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Joined Apr 7, 2011
886 points
Nov 2, 2012
Thrill is Gone
Is that guy wearing clown pants in the chimney? Pretty awesome. ozman
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
552 points
Nov 2, 2012
Dragon's Tongue - Vail, Co.
The guys farming at Lincoln are doing a great job.
Conditions photos from Thursday, 11-1

A number of the pillars are still running with water and would not be in lead-able condition. The WI5ish pillar (that formed pre-farming) is not fully in yet.

There are several new lines in the 4, 4- range up on the right that are forming up nicely. The ones in the shade are in good shape to lead.

Lincoln Falls overview.
Lincoln Falls overview.


Main gully.
Main gully.
Christian Mason
From Arvada, CO
Joined Jul 19, 2007
110 points
Nov 2, 2012
Dragon's Tongue - Vail, Co.
Noah8000 wrote:
For those curious about Fields Chimney conditions...These photos from a couple weeks ago.


FYI: A climbing partner of mine was up there this Tuesday. He said it's melted out a lot from the conditions your photos show.
Christian Mason
From Arvada, CO
Joined Jul 19, 2007
110 points
Nov 2, 2012
First morning at Indian Creek!!!
David Appelhans wrote:
So what is the best way down from Flying Dutchman? I'm thinking about soloing, do you need a rope to get down a section of the loft?


No rope needed on the descent. The top-out is very straight forward and brings you right into the Meeker-Longs Saddle, just above the Loft. The fastest way out is to descend the Loft, via a well cairned path. Do some research on the walk-off, as a botched descent down the Loft can be a little heinous. (yet, super casual if you know where to go) There is a marked path of switch-backs to climbers left. Follow these to the promised land.
J Antin
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2009
1,031 points
Nov 2, 2012
black nasty
Alexanders Chimney is in shitty conditions.. (Literally) Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,175 points
Nov 3, 2012
AntinJ wrote:
Do some research on the walk-off, as a botched descent down the Loft can be a little heinous (but super casual if you know where to go) There is a path marked switch-backs to climbers left. Follow these to the promised land.


+1...came too low a few years ago and ended up scrambling out on moss covered rock with pons trying to reach a manky piton, then rapped off a sketchy anchor just to barely make the snow below. Never again... Make sure you know where the ramp is.
mthomas
Joined Sep 25, 2009
51 points
Nov 3, 2012
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Wow, looks like it's going to be a banner year at Lincoln! Thanks to RowdyWrangellian and whoever else has been farming up there! Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Nov 3, 2012
Lamb's Slide
Really nice ice pitch on Thatchtop (NW face)
Thatchtop NW face, 03 Nov. 2012.
Thatchtop NW face, 03 Nov. 2012.


Loch Vale ice has a way to go, though the tracks through the snow indicate the area has already seen a fair amount of traffic.
Loch Vale ice, 03 Nov. 2012.
Loch Vale ice, 03 Nov. 2012.
Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
195 points
Nov 4, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
willeslinger wrote:
Is anything TR accessible at Lincoln lake up for any traffic? Or is that going to break everything and fuck it up for a while? Haven't had a chance to check it out first hand. Definitely don't want to be up there prematurely.
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points
Nov 4, 2012
Tyrol
Overflow/Jewel Lake today


Overflow, 11/04/2012.
Overflow, 11/04/2012.


Overflow, 11/04/2012.
Overflow, 11/04/2012.


All Mixed Up.
All Mixed Up.
trese
From Boulder/Innsbruck/Munich
Joined Apr 22, 2011
164 points
Nov 4, 2012
First morning at Indian Creek!!!
willeslinger wrote:
"Is anything TR accessible at Lincoln lake up for any traffic? Or is that going to break everything and fuck it up for a while? Haven't had a chance to check it out first hand. Definitely don't want to be up there prematurely."

Climbed Lincoln Falls today and there are plenty of climbable options, but with many early-season ice areas, Lincoln does have several features that should be given some more time to form.

The farming efforts have payed off - in a sense that even with nearly 20 cars in the lot today, we still managed to get plenty of pitches in!

This was however the first time I've seen that many perma-TR's set up on the pillar(s).

Side note: Make sure if you go to the Lincoln, you know the walk-off. There were multiple parties rapping down the Bowling Alley with multiple party's climbing up - the walk of takes less than 5 minutes.
J Antin
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2009
1,031 points
Nov 5, 2012
me on my redpoint
Nice day up at Lincoln Falls on Sat, super fat and growing fast. Felt like I was climbing on the front range though, so many people!!!

Anyone been down to South Mineral Creek yet?
Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Nov 5, 2012
Thrill is Gone
South Mineral is in above 10,500 ft. everything below is melted out. a.k.a. nothing in unless you are ready for a steep hike to the top pitches of DNF. I actually don't think the problem now is temps but rather lack of water. It is super dry and no water is flowing. This upcoming Saturday's storm should help in this effort. ozman
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
552 points
Nov 5, 2012
Garrett Gillest at Zappa Wall Escalante Canyon, ag...
Pitch 3, Fields Chimney, Long's Peak.
Pitch 3, Fields Chimney, Long's Peak.

Longs Peak, Pitch 3 Field Chimney condition as of Nov. 4th 2012, sublimating fast, nothing even a little wet on the entire route
Kevin Gillest
From Arvada, CO
Joined Dec 26, 2003
2,139 points
Nov 5, 2012
Shredded by the Center Route.
Kevin, we dropped a couple cams on that route last Friday. You didn't happen to find them did you? phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Joined Feb 23, 2005
693 points
Nov 6, 2012
Ouray Ice Park
There is some pretty good ice still up in the Longs Peak Cirque if you are up to the hike. There is a short conditions report on my site.

bv
whiteknuckled.com

Dutchman, Smear, and Crazy Train.
Dutchman, Smear, and Crazy Train.

Ice below Chasm Lake.
Ice below Chasm Lake.

Smear on the southwest shore of Peacock Pool.
Smear on the southwest shore of Peacock Pool.

Peacock Pool with Columbine Falls and other flows.
Peacock Pool with Columbine Falls and other flows.
BryanV
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Nov 14, 2008
30 points


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