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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Oct 5, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Tried to get up Pikes today. Road only open to mile 13. Drove over to Lincoln Falls. Not a scrap of ice anywhere - running water and wet rock. Come on cold! Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Oct 6, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Longs Peak Cirque
Kevin I hiked to Notchtop with my wife last week and there was hardly any snow on it much less Ice. Might get better with this weather event this weekend Matt Shepard
From Broomfield, CO
Joined Jul 19, 2006
94 points
Oct 6, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Thanks Matt. I might head up there to do the one of the Ptarmigan Fingers tomorrow. Will let you know if it's gotten any better. Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Oct 6, 2012
For what its worth Kevin, the last time I saw the ptarmigan fingers they were almost completely melted out. The photo attached was taken in mid august.

Rock Climbing Photo: Ptarmigan Fingers mid-August.
Ptarmigan Fingers mid-August.
Jon E.
Joined Aug 12, 2011
50 points
Oct 6, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Yikes! Thanks Jon! That's incredible. Good thing climate change is a hoax. :^/ Guess I've got to take that one off my Fall climbing list - at least until/if we get a couple of big snow years in a row. Darn shame, those used to be some of the best AI climbs around. Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Oct 6, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Julian Smith
Rock Climbing Photo: Conditions pic of North Star for 10/6/2012.
Conditions pic of North Star for 10/6/2012.
Julian Smith
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,197 points
Oct 8, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing above Black Lake
Glacier Gorge/Black Lake: All Mixed Up and Black Lake routes are getting started; but - a couple of warm days this week will thin it out to almost nothing. Very early and pretty dry overall - the weather last week got some things started, but without another dose to move it along all progress will be lost. Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Joined May 21, 2007
147 points
Oct 16, 2012
from chris davenport's instagram today...
Rock Climbing Photo: From Davenport's instagram.
From Davenport's instagram.
Freddy.Mondale
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 29, 2011
58 points
Oct 21, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Shredded by the Center Route.
Lincoln Falls is forming, though the middle of the bowling alley is still rock, and the pillars are a little rainy right now. phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Joined Feb 23, 2005
783 points
Oct 21, 2012
Went up to Long's Peak yesterday. Most everything is thin and discontinuous still, and the warm nights weren't helping. This next storm cycle may change that though. The right side of Columbine Falls (not pictured) had about a refrigerator sized hole in through which you could see a lot of flowing water.
Rock Climbing Photo: Columbine Falls and Peacock Pool area.  Forming, s...
Columbine Falls and Peacock Pool area. Forming, still flowing underneath.


Rock Climbing Photo: Diamond.  Lake is not at all frozen.
Diamond. Lake is not at all frozen.
Brian Scoggins
From Laramie, WY
Joined Mar 12, 2002
1,220 points
Oct 21, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Longs Peak from Mt. Alice, RMNP
Come on Smear of Fear and Crazy Train! Haven't seen those lines in a couple years!

Nice pics, thanks Brian.
Jeremy Monahan
From Fort Fun, CO
Joined May 18, 2002
477 points
Oct 22, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Smear is pretty hopeless this season I think unless some serious change happens. (Hope I'm wrong) Crazy Train was in over a week ago but not for the faint of heart. The only screws you could have gotten would have been the anchor, if that, but it was touching. Conditions changed big time in just a week from pretty descent to almost summer like. Smear melted in half it seemed. Fields melted out a bit. Hopefully the cooler temps later this week bring some restoration. On the other hand....things that don't see the sun on the East Face.... Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
1,096 points
Oct 24, 2012
Noah8000 wrote:
Anyone interested in Vail Sunday? (seriously)

drytooling but that s about it ill go though i live here so why not pm me
jeff frame
From Vail,Co
Joined Aug 4, 2012
7 points
Oct 25, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: me on my redpoint
Anyone been up to Lincoln Falls yet? Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Oct 25, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Bocan
phil wortmann wrote:
Lincoln Falls is forming, though the middle of the bowling alley is still rock, and the pillars are a little rainy right now.


This is from above, 4 days ago.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
1,387 points
Oct 25, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Mountain Bandito
Rock Climbing Photo: The goods.
The goods.

This photo is from about 2 weeks ago. Lincoln falls is the fattest its been in a long time. I was going up there every other day to chop out the ice dams to keep the water flow going until some one took the community ice axe that was stashed up there. So, if you took an old grivel straight tool can you please return it or PM me.
As of 10/25 in Summit it has snowed a few inches and is about 0F with wind chill.

Rock Climbing Photo: Long's Peak.
Long's Peak.

Longs Peak Conditions:
Alexanders- In
Flying Dutchmen- In
Lamb Slide- Alpine Ice
Kieners- In
Eighth Route- out
Cables- In
Dream Weaver- Maybe??
Taylor-B.
From Valdez, AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
3,091 points
Administrator
Oct 27, 2012
Loch Vale vicinity report:

Loch Vale Gorge (from a distance) looked meager.
Rock Climbing Photo: 10/26/12.
10/26/12.


NW Face of Thatchtop, P1 looks in.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of NW Face of Thatchtop, 10/26/12.
P1 of NW Face of Thatchtop, 10/26/12.


Necrophelia - not much.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lean, mean. 10/26/12.
Lean, mean. 10/26/12.


Deep Freeze - has ice in the back, but the dagger on the last pitch isn't in.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deep Freeze, 10/26/12.
Deep Freeze, 10/26/12.


The Crypt - not.

Womb With A View - not.
Rock Climbing Photo: Womb, 10/26/12.
Womb, 10/26/12.


Timberline Falls - in, but not fat. Main section is hollow, open spots, climbable to the sides.
Rock Climbing Photo: Timberline Falls, 10/26/12.
Timberline Falls, 10/26/12.
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,680 points
Oct 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Equinox- Castlewood Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Long's Peak - Chasm Lake.
Long's Peak - Chasm Lake.


10/26/12
Garrick Muehlnickel
From Parker,CO
Joined Jul 26, 2006
669 points
Oct 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Equinox- Castlewood Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Long's Peak Trail - towards Twin Sisters.
Long's Peak Trail - towards Twin Sisters.


Aw who am I kidding, yesterday was awesome up there, I have to add one more.
Garrick Muehlnickel
From Parker,CO
Joined Jul 26, 2006
669 points
Oct 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of the Black Wall pitch on the Direct Exum
Rock Climbing Photo: Loch Vale crag, 10/27/12.  Better shape than expec...
Loch Vale crag, 10/27/12. Better shape than expected.


Rock Climbing Photo: Mixed Emotions 10/27/12 with a few inches of slab ...
Mixed Emotions 10/27/12 with a few inches of slab ice past the crux move.


Rock Climbing Photo: Crystal Meth 10/27/12 touching down but in fragile...
Crystal Meth 10/27/12 touching down but in fragile WI6 condition.


Rock Climbing Photo: Loch Vale Crag 10/27/12.  'Mixed Feelings' could g...
Loch Vale Crag 10/27/12. 'Mixed Feelings' could grow more. 'More Flo than Go'is just in, Lochluster routes still haven't touched down. 'Crystal Meth' is fragile.
Ted Eliason
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jun 16, 2009
523 points
Oct 27, 2012
Thanks for all of the updates everyone, very much appreciated! MattRedford
From Ward, CO
Joined Mar 29, 2010
6 points
Oct 28, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: profile
if anyone wants to teach a noob (complete noob from califorina) some ice climbing this december, i'd love to tag along. beers on me. i have all the gear. Rich zz
From california
Joined Oct 2, 2012
152 points
Oct 28, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: testing out some cravasses
Glacier Gorge Report:

4"-6" Inches of snow along the trail, 1'-2' near black lake. Black lake was not fully frozen.

Parking Lot Ice: Not

AMU: Looks to be in from the trail, ice bottom to top. Did not appear to be much snow above or below the route.

Rock Climbing Photo: AMU, 10/27/12.
AMU, 10/27/12.


Jewel: Thin

Rock Climbing Photo: Jewell: 10/27/12.
Jewell: 10/27/12.


Reflections: From the trail, looks to have a fair amount of ice:

Rock Climbing Photo: Reflections: 10/27/12.
Reflections: 10/27/12.


West Gully: Looked thin in spots
Stoneman: Just touching down


Rock Climbing Photo: West Gully/ Stoneman: 10-27-12.
West Gully/ Stoneman: 10-27-12.


Black Lake Slabs: Bottom has ice but thin:


Rock Climbing Photo: Black Lake Slabs: 10-27-12.
Black Lake Slabs: 10-27-12.
Chris91
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 29, 2010
70 points
Oct 28, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Thrill is Gone
Slverton: south mineral creek. Lower direct north face is not in, but there must have been a pronounced freeze line at about 10,500 ft. Because the top pitches are much fatter than the lower few pitches. Same with cataract creek. ozman
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
562 points
Oct 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Garrett Gillest at Zappa Wall Escalante Canyon, ag...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side upper at Lincoln, as of Oct. 28th.
Right side upper at Lincoln, as of Oct. 28th.


Lincoln Upper Right-Side


Rock Climbing Photo: Entire area as of Oct. 28th.
Entire area as of Oct. 28th.


Entire Lincoln Falls Ice, as of 12 noon Oct 28th. Great conditions, the maintenance work/farming has really paid off, hats off to all involved! Ice growing in places I have never seen in the past
Kevin Gillest
From Arvada, CO
Joined Dec 26, 2003
2,253 points


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