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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Scotty Nelson
From Boulder
Feb 7, 2013
Post- Greenwood/Locke, Mt Temple, Canda
Does anyone know what conditions are like in Vail?

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By logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Feb 7, 2013
Flakey Pull Roof v5
^Given the time of year, not great.

Pretty much everything free standing except for the Des and the Pencil is out.
Firehouse Right has 2 or 3 leadable lines, the left only has one. Pitkin and Pumphouse are in but not near as fat as they should be.
Haven't been up to spiral but it looks kinda hacked out and acrappy from the highway.

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By Baumer
From Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2013
Easy Lieback
bgleason wrote:
Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??


I climbed there on Monday. It was my first time there so I don't have any point of comparison to past seasons, but there were three lines to be climbed with decent ice. I'm guessing this is typical given the south-facing aspect, but by 11am it was already getting excessively soft and wet, so we bailed. Cold weather would be good...

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By bgleason
From Denver, CO
Feb 8, 2013
Awesome. Thanks for the update. That's really helpful!

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By luke Lydiard
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 8, 2013
The Ice Park in Lake City is FAT. Not picked out at all. Hardly anybody around.

Lake City Ice Park, 2/7/2013.
Lake City Ice Park, 2/7/2013.


Also walked up to the Sherman climb in Sherman. Some serious avalanche chunder at the the bottom but the ice is in FAT. Horrible breakable crust on the approach but there is a boot pack for now. I would think twice about getting on this after any fresh snow.

The Sherman Climb, 2/8/2013.
The Sherman Climb, 2/8/2013.

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By Paul-B
Feb 8, 2013
Flakes of Wrath
Anyone seen Total Abandon recently?

Also, I am curious about the approach from Manitou. On the MP post it says see R&I #85 for the approach from Manitou....I don't have that issue. Anyone care to give the beta?

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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 8, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.
No with the lack of snow and moisture I saw up there last week with the cold temps that Pikes has had I would say it will be much more mixed. It didn't come in super thick to begin with this year.

The approach from Manitou is probably to take the Barr Trail to the Bottomless Pit which is like 12 miles. You could take the Cog about halfway but it's still quite a slog. Only been desperate enough to hike up there once in the winter

On another note does anyone think ice will form on the First Flatiron this weekend if the rainy/snowy forecast with cold nights is accurate? Or will it not be cold enough for long enough before the sun comes out again?

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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Feb 8, 2013
Paul, you got me curious, so reading R&I #85, it talks about the $6/person toll road and the $8-10\/person cog railroad. It doesn't seem to mention other options. It does discuss Wet & Wild, 400', 5.8 WI5.

It's been warm on rock for a while, so it'll have to be a perfect timing kind of thing on the 1st Flatiron if we get a big, wet dump, it seems to me.

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By Paul-B
Feb 8, 2013
Flakes of Wrath
Thanks. That was quick. Hope for a wet dump. I have not climbed the silk road, but I would love to get on it if it would form up soon.

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By MikeS
From Boulder, CO
Feb 8, 2013
J- with this forecast, I would think Tuesday early AM is your best bet for Silk Rd
forecast.weather.gov/MapClick....

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By phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Feb 8, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.
Total Abandon looked pretty thick as of last weekend. The hike up Barr is huge, about 25miles RT. I've climbed TA from the Crags and it's not bad. About 5 miles each way.

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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Feb 8, 2013
seth0687 wrote:
Went up to Hidden Falls in Wild Basin yesterday. The ice was great, but the main flow was the steepest that I've ever scene it. I'm gonna go on a limb and say WI4+ maybe even WI5. As you move up on the upper pillar the ice gets pretty thin, chandeliered, and hollow. The small flow just left of the main flow was in FAT and offers a good way up for a TR if you so choose. The mixed lines to the right appeared to be "IN" but are way above my abilities so take it for what it's worth.


Was up there 2 days ago. Met a couple of guys who were very nice. The climb was pretty wet, drippy in the middle. The holes seen in the picture are now small caves with some fun overhanging pulls. Overall its great, a fairly stout lead, but good feet. Walk up/off is mostly dirt. Almost to small this year for more than one party at a time. Approach is cake with the road open so far in. Hiked in in a T-shirt. Crazy for Feb.

WI5 mini pillar to the right is fun, but the lower half is chandeliery. Pumpy, but fun. Get it on a weekday, a weekend up there would be no fun sitting around.

mountainproject.com/v/10798283... (seth0687's picture)

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By Scott Matz
From Loveland, CO
Feb 8, 2013
in the middle of the book end. looking down into heaven
Climbed total abandonment this sunday the crux pitch was a lot fatter than other tr's the 3 rd a t little scrachy all in all its in wi4-m4

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By ozman
From CO / NM
Feb 8, 2013
Hyalite shots
Cornett Falls in Telluride climbs nice. Bridalveil had great hero sticks from bottom to top, with nice belay caves and tunnels.
Cornett Falls.
Cornett Falls.


Cornett 2.
Cornett 2.


Bridalveil starting second pitch from first pitch belay cave.
Bridalveil starting second pitch from first pitch belay cave.

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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 9, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.
Well shit Paul, I stand corrected, sorry. Would not have guessed that with the super dry weather and what I saw last week in Glen Cove. Any of you TA climbers get a picture by any chance?

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By 419
From Denver
Feb 9, 2013
JR Token
Vail Conditions update:
-Spiral Staircase is very picked/stepped out and sporting one third the volume of ice it sees in normal years. I would not walk up for this climb alone.
-Secret probation is thin too. Definitely more challenging than previous years.
-The pencil is fat and picked/kicked.
-The Eraser has very thin ground contact and would be better approaching from Quasimoto.
-The Dezi is in good shape. The donkey trail on the left has seen a few periods of drip and fresh ice. The right side is very continuous and only mildly picked/kicked.
-The 7th tenticle is in the best condition of any amphitheater ice. Full conditions.

In general, the ice in Vail is way below baseline. There's no ice on Amphibian, Fatman and Robin is at about half length and cupcake corner is mixier than ever. On the brightside, it is snowing today and the Fang is making a move.

Always optimistic,
Jonathan

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By England
From ?
Feb 9, 2013
Alpine toothpick.
phil wortmann wrote:
Total Abandon looked pretty thick as of last weekend. The hike up Barr is huge, about 25miles RT. I've climbed TA from the Crags and it's not bad. About 5 miles each way.

Why would you do that? Heard of the Hero's traverse?

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By phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Feb 9, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.
Yes England, ive been up there a time or two. I was responding to Paul's question. You still have to do the hero when approaching from the Crags. The road isn't always open, and it allows for a bigger training day.

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By Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Feb 10, 2013
Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road lately? Is there a little more ice forming on Skylight?
THX

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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Feb 11, 2013
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP.
Is anyone else thinking that with all of the snow and cold temps they've been getting in the high country over the last week things will fatten up a bit again?

Hopefully heading out tomorrow, just not sure to what. I'll be sure to report anything good!

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By matt babiash
Feb 11, 2013
Climbed skylight on 2/01/13. First pitch was good. No need to lay back on the chock stone as the ice formed over the crack.
Second pitch ended right below the rock bulge so a v thread
Was needed for rap. Pretty tight climbing at the top. Swings were restricted by the chimney. Great fun though!
All other climbs in that area were very wet and it was cold.

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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Feb 11, 2013
Tony T. wrote:
Is anyone else thinking that with all of the snow and cold temps they've been getting in the high country over the last week things will fatten up a bit again? Hopefully heading out tomorrow, just not sure to what. I'll be sure to report anything good!


Not much snow in the Summit area. Copper reported only 3" in the last 72 hours...

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By Arik
From Silverthorne, Colorado
Feb 11, 2013
The Red.
I know this is more of a "conditions" thread, but figured I'd try posting this here.

Looking for a regular ice climbing partner in Summit County. I have my own rope and some gear to set up top ropes. Can also lead belay and then follow. I live in Keystone and have my own vehicle so short trips are also an option. PM if interested.

Thanks,

Arik

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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 13, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop
Conditions on Martha???? Anyone been up recently, dry..mixed..snow..ice?

Thanks,

Seth

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By AaronPugmire
Feb 14, 2013
Does any one know conditions on the flying dutchman or conditions on northwest face of thatchtop?

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