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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Jan 14, 2013
me on my redpoint

How are the longer routes in RMNP doing like AMU and West Gully? Anyone been up there?


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By Eldo Love
From Dolores, CO
Jan 14, 2013
The front yard

anything in clear creek yet??? its close. silly. and great for night ice i guess.


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By MikeS
From Boulder, CO
Jan 14, 2013

AMU is in. Not sure about W Gully, but would imagine it's also in. Could still see the ice pitch in the NW Gully of Thatchtop, looking good.


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By Jeremy Espinoza
From Denver, CO
Jan 14, 2013
Dry tooling near the shroud.

Eldo Love wrote:
anything in clear creek yet??? its close. silly. and great for night ice i guess.



I drove up CC last week and it isn't even starting.


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By Carolyn Davidson
From Golden, CO
Jan 14, 2013

Dave Cummings wrote:
How are the longer routes in RMNP doing like AMU and West Gully? Anyone been up there?



West Gully is in-- but as of 1/6/13-- leaner than I've ever seen it. Most consolidated ice route (p1/p2) to access the lower angle slabs was to the far right. Left would have been hairy, very thin, wet and chandaliered. Slabs up top are plenty fat.


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By acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Jan 14, 2013

Hey Walter, I have your two Wild Country non-locking carabiners from Hidden Falls (RMNP) last week. You were climbing with Justin and Heidi. I can get them back to you if you're in/around Boulder.

I guided All Mixed Up on Wednesday and it's still in great shape. The easiest lines are pretty hacked up but there's plenty of good, blue ice to climb if you deviate from the path of least resistance. We lost a screw; the clients swore they didn't drop anything so I think they just forgot to clean one en route. Obviously I'd be psyched to get it back if anyone finds it (BD express screw, should have a yellow mark on it or say AC somewhere on the head). The edges of the route are beginning to delaminate and sound pretty hollow and the route is getting thinner all the time BUT still good climbing. There's a sizable windslab atop the regular 3rd pitch and, again, above the final pitch. Both were unreactive to our weight as well as a party of 3 on Saturday but with the recent snow/loading that could've changed.

There were 18 people at Jewel Lake/Overflow ice on Saturday before we showed up. It's notoriety as an easy-access TR crag has apparently grown. The far left ice is still a bit wet but overall the place looks much thinner than usual and is, of course, well-pocketed. Damn, it was cold this weekend.


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By Brian Stefanovic
From Fort Collins, CO
Jan 14, 2013

Climbed stairway to heaven and second gulley. Stairway was in great shape, a little thin on the first pitch and the top two WI3 pitches were a little wet. The descent is still good although a new storm would put it into some sketchy avalanche terrain.

Lastly, sorry to say, one of my tools came off the pack somewhere on the walk off. If any one finds it (in the spring?) please let me know...it is one of the new generation quarks with black tape around the shaft...thanks...


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By robrobrobrob
Jan 15, 2013

Went up to Glenwood Falls after work, fairly fat, good trail to base. First pitch is pretty low grade, probably 2+ to the shelf. Ice at base was very water logged, up higher it was brittle. "Unknown" off to climbers right looks good too. Kind of sad to see some higher temps on their way... gonna have to stay off this one in the sun.


Glenwood Falls, 12/14/2013.
Glenwood Falls, 12/14/2013.


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By Vic
Jan 15, 2013

It's a cool time to explore Blue Mesa ice. With the reservoir being frozen over there is no need for trespassing on private land to reach certain climbs.

Chipeta: IN
Blue Balls: OUT
Blue Mesa Smear: IN (can approach from base of Chipeta)
Monster: Very Thin
Real Blue Creek: ? (could probably hike up creek from the Needle)
Gandalfs: OUT for season
Shadowfax: ? - OUT for season, most likely


Chipeta Falls.
Chipeta Falls.




Curecanti Needle.
Curecanti Needle.




Curecanti Monster in very thin condition.
Curecanti Monster in very thin condition.


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By Eldo Love
From Dolores, CO
Jan 15, 2013
The front yard

Jeremy Espinoza wrote:
I drove up CC last week and it isn't even starting.


wow, probably wont even happen this year then... Thank you for making the trip. saved me one.


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By J Antin
From Denver, CO
Jan 16, 2013
First morning at Indian Creek!!!

@Vic - great stuff! I love your more 'exploratory' posts.

Now to contradict myself - how are the classics on Camp Bird Road looking?


And to contribute a little: [Vail 1-13-2013]

Here is Spiral Staircase. It was my first time up there and it seemed pretty beefy.

Spiral Staircase - Fat & Hacked.
Spiral Staircase - Fat & Hacked.


The Pencil also seemed to be in fat conditions, with a pretty chandelierd and hollow start.
The Pencil - looking good!
The Pencil - looking good!



The Rigid Designator had a very tall spray cone, so be prepared to climb more onion skin than usual. The climb itself was pretty hacked out, and the left side up high was thin compared to past years.
The Rigid Designator, 1/12/2013.
The Rigid Designator, 1/12/2013.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Jan 16, 2013

For metro ice, as of 1/15/12, Castlewood Canyon has a decent amount of ice in the Cherry Creek Falls area. A decent amount of WI2 ice, bits of WI3 & 4- ice. Descent in requires a short rap or downclimb. Licorice Stick is dry.

Courtesy of Eric Chrisman.
Courtesy of Eric Chrisman.


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By Ben Collett
Jan 20, 2013

Martha is fun right now, but there is a little less ice and snow than normal.


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Jan 20, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Ben did you bring up any screws with you on Martha?


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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Jan 21, 2013
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12

Anyone have pictures or a conditions report on the Ice around Eureka/Silverton?


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By Scott Matz
From Loveland, CO
Jan 21, 2013
in the middle of the book end. looking down into heaven

Yea Silverton was good most routs have been picked out , hot temps wet climbs most routes r in and really good climbed high way to hell Saturday excellent avys still present but low danger until it snows again south facing routes r slowly deteriorating


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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Jan 21, 2013
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Mooner,

I have some friends who did Whorehouse Hoses on Friday. I'll see if I can work up a few pix. Apparently with all the lowish avy danger, it was in just fine. They did 3 long pitches. Start early - the sun has been making some stuff a bit scary up there.

Cale


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By tom bohanon
Jan 21, 2013

Does anyone have any info or pics of ice at Rifle? Marble Falls is fat right now, with very low risk of falling through....as fat as I've ever seen it. Redstone Pillar is non-existent.


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Jan 21, 2013

haven't been out to Rifle yet but word on the street is everything is in fatty fat


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By Ted Eliason
From Westminster, CO
Jan 21, 2013
Ice Fest 2014

November-like conditions up in RMNP

All Mixed Up from Mill's Lake 1/20/13.
All Mixed Up from Mill's Lake 1/20/13.

West Gully Area 1/20/13
West Gully Area 1/20/13

Black Lake Slabs and the "talus Trough" behind 1/20/13.
Black Lake Slabs and the "talus Trough" behind 1/20/13.

Deborah Couloir needs more snow.
Deborah Couloir needs more snow.


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By Michael E.
From Fort Collins, CO
Jan 21, 2013

Just climbed West Gully on friday (1/18) and it was quite lean through the crux pitch making the climb feel harder than WI4 for just a moment, but very enjoyable and safe all the while! Hard snow below, and no snow above makes the climb a safe and fast endeavour at the moment!


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Jan 21, 2013
Sure, I can belay

Castlewood Canyon near the falls very nice today.

Boulder Canyon at Castle Rock looked bare from a drive-by yesterday.


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By Jamie Jones
From Colorado
Jan 22, 2013

Fifty two degrees in The San Juans, estimated 6oo people in the
ice park each day this weekend, even worst than the Festival. Poor
ruined Colorado.


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By Buff Johnson
Jan 22, 2013
smiley face

I heard the same thing. Glad I missed out on the entirety of that shit show.


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By robert clarke
Jan 22, 2013

what are ice conditions like in Rifle State Park?


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