@Phil: The North Face can definitely hold enough snow to slide, it's a popular ski descent and I've been up there post-holing up to my thighs in places. Wind slabs can form really quickly with the wind that Longs gets up there.

Having said that, I don't know how OFTEN it slides, and looking at the RMNP webcam the cables descent looks pretty dry.

www.nps.gov/romo/photosmultimedia/webcams.htm

Hey Darren, I talked to Lake City Visitor Center a few days ago and they said that there is ice at thd park and the farming keeps going, so Im guessing yes...

Does anyone have any beta on Big Thompson Canyon conditions? I was thinking of getting a short day in next Thursday. Thanks!

I didn't see any ice as I was driving up the Big Thompson 12/29, and the upper and lower flows are absolutely bone dry.

Climbed again at Lincoln falls today, did bowling alley. At the top of the 2nd pitch a giant slab broke loose and rained suitcase size ice and a lot of water down onto the trees below. The very top to the right of the anchors is very hollow and water is rushing under it. Stay to the left on the 2nd pitch and the ice is good but don't go right.

Darren & Nina,
Hi.
I was in Lake City Ice Park last week and we were only able to lead one route. It was thin.....everywhere.
I would wait a couple of weeks before deciding to make it a "destination". They will probably have it in good shape for their Ice Fest the weekend of February 9th. There are sposors this year so it should be a grade above past years. Though I must say that the party at the Packer Bar after last years comp was unrivaled. I couldn't get my crampons on the next day.

Not that anybody cares but cottonballs, cuba gulch, and cataract is awesome climbing and I would imagine all in (climbed Sherman Oct 31). The stuff in the black canyon www.mountainproject.com/v/blue-mesa-near-gunnison/105744558 is looking really good. Blue Mesa smear is in, chipeta is in, blue balls is probably in, Curecanti Monster is shaping up fat but could use a few weeks.

Glenwood falls and Hidden falls in Glenwood Canyon are fat right now. Cold temps in the morning and sunny afternoons are good for the former to a point..... The sun hits the top of Glenwood Falls a bit before 10 AM.

Hidden Falls early January, 2013. Submitted By: tom bohanon on Jan 5, 2013

Glenwood Falls, early January, 2013. Submitted By: tom bohanon on Jan 5, 2013

Climbed Silk Road this morning. Still in. Snow & "ice" were less than amazing - a fair amount of failing under body weight. Lots of hot hot crampon (and palm) on slab action.

What we though to be the upper crux - pulling onto the East Face proper by a small tree - appeared to have very little ice. I lost sack and continued up the gulley, finishing the last pitch and a bit along the gulley's far right hand side.

Double rack to #2 worked pretty well. Used 2 small nuts. Didn't need the #4. Little pro on the 1st pitch, used most of the rack on the 2nd,not much needed (but its there if you want it) on the 3rd/3.25th

Climbed The Crypt in RMNP yesterday. Not too bad of a hike in on the (climber's) right side rocks. Avy conditions very manageable/minimal. Climb is in decent enough shape for a few laps. A bit chandeliered/hard icicle runnels etc. Like so many ice routes in the Park...a lotta humpin' for so little thumpin'...as always though, it was nice to swing tools on a sunny day.

Looking for an ice climbing partner for the next few days. Im hanging out in ridgeway and can climb anywhere around the area. Silverton wojld be best. If youre up for doing some long routes give me a call. 9288649325

Heard the Des and Spiral are in good shape but steeper than normal as of yesterday. I want to go up to Vail Sunday and drop a TR on Spiral but I have only led 2+ and dont feel ready for"steeper than normal" 4-. I heard about a chimney that leads up to the top. Any info on how I can get up there without leading?

That's climber's right of Spiral. Climber's right of the Dez is the Fang,hardly a scramble/bushwhack. :)
The chimney you've heard about is climber's left of the Dez near a prow of rock IIRC and often has a crappy line fixed in it.
Best option is to practice and put in miles until you can lead it rather than tying up the line with a TR. Let those who can, lead it. You'll appreciate it when you're in those shoes. Everywhere is not your ice park.

+1,000
Every third person should re-lead the climbs in Vail. There isn't enough ice to tie it up all day on TR. Practice elsewhere until you can lead the climbs. Thanks for the guidance Kevin...

bridalveil is in nice right now.

As Kevin said if you can lead it you will appreciate it......

I have logged hundreds of hours on the sharp end and really because of the crowds and the destruction of the ice in Colorado I just don't go out and climb ice here anymore.

Having been in Vail lots and lots of times it just amazed me actually baffled me to wonder first, why is there snow falling off The Fang then moments later a rope being lowered from above as a TR was set up.

Jewel Falls in RMNP watching a guy shoulder a rope and start to walk around........

I couldn't fathom where he was going till I realized he was walking around to set up a TR

Ice climbing in Colorado is just not what it used to be......

Maybe you'll all think hey great one less ice climber out there making a crowd, but what people are doing to ice and climbs in Colorado, I wouldn't call them ice climbers I'd call them gym climbers outdoors trying to be ice climbers......

Yeah, good riddance Jim! One less lead climber hogging all those great TRs in the F'Range. I mean those leaders take forever on a climb, when you can just scramble around to set the TR. So lame.

Kidding aside. I have noticed a huge change in the ice community in the short time I have climbed here in CO.

I guess in the 80s when you moved to CO, you bought skis. Now you buy ice tools. A special thanks to all the top ropers for all those ropes tossed with no call down on my head while leading. I'm with Jim, the bs is getting annoying, but I won't stop climbing.