Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 11 of 25.  <<First   <Prev   9  10  11  12  13   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Dec 31, 2012
Tammy Payne wrote:
Buddy and I are looking at possibly doing Glenwood Falls this weekend... I've seen her from the Hwy... as have others... but anyone actually been on her yet? Would love some beta.


start early on a cold cloudy day. that one loves to fall down midday. rumor has it the spring that feeds it is always ~52*

friends got on it this morning... we'll see how it goes
S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Dec 31, 2012
I will do almost anything to stay out of one... ev...
Awesome! Thanks :o) If you hear from your friends, let me know how their climb went. Anything else in the area in and worthy of attacking? Tammy Payne
Joined Jun 14, 2011
238 points
Dec 31, 2012
not quite yet... hidden is very close, redstone is shaping up but not there S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Dec 31, 2012
glenwood falls update... P2 was thin thin thin, and wet wet wet. Sun came out and those guys wisely bailed. Gotta catch that one on the perfect day to keep the safety margin manageable S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Jan 1, 2013
Redstone: Drool pillar -nothing at all, not even a damp smear. Avocado Gully 1st pitch: nada. 2nd pitch is too thin and any ascent may blast it out for weeks.
Vail: thin but close. Dont bother with the racket club, very very incomplete.
funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Jan 1, 2013
RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
Tammy Payne wrote:
Awesome! Thanks :o) If you hear from your friends, let me know how their climb went. Anything else in the area in and worthy of attacking?

I did Glenwood Falls solo maybe in 1995(?) leashes one piece suit etc. It was a cloudy day very cold one chunk of ice came down while I suited up but the clouds rolled in so I headed up. Right at the top of the steep ice there was a hole in the ice and when I looked down the hole I could see my own shadow against the ice there was nothing but flowing water under me and the thin pane of vertical ice I was on...

Before I had begun the approach from the road a CDOT worker had tried to talk me out of going he apparently didn't want to have to look for my mangled body. I stepped over the guard rail en route and nearly fell over the memorial to the two guys killed when the thing had collapsed.

This is one to avoid I would say. Absolutely not worth anyone's life...
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
198 points
Jan 2, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
Anyone in Boulder see or climb ice/neve on Silk Road this week?

Cold in RMNP and no ice forming, mostly sublimating w/ 0 to 3' of snow depending on where you go.

And no Squid or Jaws yet?
Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,028 points
Jan 2, 2013
black nasty
Hey Eli,

Did the silkroad a few days ago...
It was pretty damn thin, and all of the snow was
mostly loose. No good neve snow that I could find.

It may get better, but my guess is not. I suspect it
will all sublimate away with the current forecast.

There was many no falling zones. One useful piece of
gear was a whisk broom to dust off holds.
All the pitches required gloved crampon climbing.

I will say I found one (can you believe it?!) spot to
sink a stubby ice screw to the hilt... There was rock
gear near by though.

Cor

PS: Any word on conditions @ Loch Vale ice park?
Silk Road P1.
Silk Road P1.



Silkroad P2.
Silkroad P2.
Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,169 points
Jan 2, 2013
Did Lincoln today, like -5 with wind, ice is super hard and brittle a lot of dinner plates and some of the towers were pretty hollow. Enough holes already to just hook the whole way up though. John lewis
Joined Dec 5, 2012
0 points
Jan 3, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
Thanks for the beta Cor, looks good enough to try today and maybe some heat will lead to quick neve formation?
The word on Loch Vale this week from a friend: climbed Mo Flow than Go, as Crystal Meth and L of Lochluster don't seem to want to grow much. The ice was brittle and old.
Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,028 points
Jan 3, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
Dreamweaver is soft snow, no ice until May.
Lambslide is loaded with avi potential.
Martha is likely forming into a firmer snow and ice route under the current weather trend (sunny and warming).
Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,028 points
Jan 3, 2013
5.6+
Cotton Balls.
Cotton Balls.
Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Joined Feb 24, 2009
39 points
Jan 3, 2013
5.6+
The Sherman Climb from start of pitch 3. Pitch 4 w...
The Sherman Climb from start of pitch 3. Pitch 4 was WI-5.
Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Joined Feb 24, 2009
39 points
Jan 3, 2013
Rick McL wrote:

Hey Rick, cotton Balls looks awesome, but, ehmmm, where is it? Couldn't find it on Mountain Project...
Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Joined Dec 30, 2012
15 points
Jan 4, 2013
5.6+
Nina GJ wrote:
Hey Rick, cotton Balls looks awesome, but, ehmmm, where is it? Couldn't find it on Mountain Project...


Nina,
Hi.
We got the name "Cotton Balls" In Jack Roberts guide book "Colorado Ice" volume 1 on page 131. I believe that it was unnamed until Jack gave the route this designation at the time he wrote the book. The climb is a few hundred yards west of "Cotton Picker & Cotton Mouth", both a mile and a half up canyon from the mighty "Sherman Climb" in Sherman CO, 20 miles west of Lake City, CO.
Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Joined Feb 24, 2009
39 points
Jan 4, 2013
Profile Icon
Hey, I was curious too so I looked it up in Jack's book (and on the internet).

It's in the Lake City section of the book. Page 131.

Here's a link with a description:
books.google.com/books?id=iEFh...

Cuba Gulch is the name of the area. Here's a pin on Google Maps to Cuba Gulch

maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=2...
Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Joined Nov 23, 2012
10 points
Jan 4, 2013
Profile Icon
LOL. I wasn't quite fast enough. DOH. Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Joined Nov 23, 2012
10 points
Jan 4, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
Silk Road has ice and firm enough snow- likely improving conditions over the weekend. It was warm yesterday and we didn't see any water flowing and only minimal ice fall on the 1st Flatiron.

Art on the first ice section of Silk Road, 1st Fla...
Art on the first ice section of Silk Road, 1st Flatiron.


A full double rack of camalots up to #2 plus a #4 made it a sew-up where necessary. Recommended to leave the nuts and screws behind.
Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,028 points
Jan 4, 2013
Dry tooling near the shroud.
Any word on tenmile ice and avi conditions? Looking to go there tomorrow.

Thanks!
Jeremy Espinoza
From Denver, CO
Joined Jun 8, 2011
20 points
Jan 4, 2013
Crux Move
Can the north face of longs hold enough snow to 'lanche? It is on the most dangerous aspect for the problem we have right now. Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Jan 4, 2013
Rick McL wrote:
Nina, Hi. We got the name "Cotton Balls" In Jack Roberts guide book "Colorado Ice" volume 1 on page 131. I beleive that it was unnamed until Jack gave the route this designation at the time he wrote the book. The climb is a few hundred yards west of "Cotton Picker & Cotton Mouth", both a mile and a half up canyon from the mighty "Sherman Climb" in Sherman CO, 20 miles west of Lake City, CO.

Thanks guys! Found it now in the book. Hope to check it out when we are in Lake City in two weeks...
Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Joined Dec 30, 2012
15 points
Jan 4, 2013
Speaking of Lake City, does the ice park have climable ice yet? Is it open? Thanks. Darren D.
Joined Mar 11, 2007
28 points
Jan 4, 2013
@Phil: The North Face can definitely hold enough snow to slide, it's a popular ski descent and I've been up there post-holing up to my thighs in places. Wind slabs can form really quickly with the wind that Longs gets up there.

Having said that, I don't know how OFTEN it slides, and looking at the RMNP webcam the cables descent looks pretty dry.

nps.gov/romo/photosmultimedia/...
Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Jan 4, 2013
Hey Darren, I talked to Lake City Visitor Center a few days ago and they said that there is ice at thd park and the farming keeps going, so Im guessing yes... Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Joined Dec 30, 2012
15 points
Jan 4, 2013
Does anyone have any beta on Big Thompson Canyon conditions? I was thinking of getting a short day in next Thursday. Thanks! Chris L.
From Laramie, WY
Joined Jan 1, 2009
0 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 11 of 25.  <<First   <Prev   9  10  11  12  13   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!