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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Dec 30, 2012
Mt. Churchill, University Range

Just after the French pillar collapsed. People still flirting with detached, sublimated, cracked, shit ice!
Just after the French pillar collapsed. People still flirting with detached, sublimated, cracked, shit ice!

FYI/PSA: The Lincoln Falls pillars are always super dangerous in the winter. The French Pillar collapsed today with about half a dozen people directly below it and TRing that exact climb, along with a few other people in the vicinity of the falling ice. Iím so glad that no one was hurt. I know this forum is no place to rant, so I posted on a new forum the recipe for disaster.


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By George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Dec 31, 2012
Hip trouble ...

Bridalveil Falls near Telluride, 12/26/2012

Bridalveil Falls, 12/26/2012
Bridalveil Falls, 12/26/2012


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By Tammy Payne
Dec 31, 2012
I will do almost anything to stay out of one... even climb harder slab...

Buddy and I are looking at possibly doing Glenwood Falls this weekend... I've seen her from the Hwy... as have others... but anyone actually been on her yet? Would love some beta.


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Dec 31, 2012

Tammy Payne wrote:
Buddy and I are looking at possibly doing Glenwood Falls this weekend... I've seen her from the Hwy... as have others... but anyone actually been on her yet? Would love some beta.


start early on a cold cloudy day. that one loves to fall down midday. rumor has it the spring that feeds it is always ~52*

friends got on it this morning... we'll see how it goes


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By Tammy Payne
Dec 31, 2012
I will do almost anything to stay out of one... even climb harder slab...

Awesome! Thanks :o) If you hear from your friends, let me know how their climb went. Anything else in the area in and worthy of attacking?


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Dec 31, 2012

not quite yet... hidden is very close, redstone is shaping up but not there


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Dec 31, 2012

glenwood falls update... P2 was thin thin thin, and wet wet wet. Sun came out and those guys wisely bailed. Gotta catch that one on the perfect day to keep the safety margin manageable


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By funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Jan 1, 2013

Redstone: Drool pillar -nothing at all, not even a damp smear. Avocado Gully 1st pitch: nada. 2nd pitch is too thin and any ascent may blast it out for weeks.
Vail: thin but close. Dont bother with the racket club, very very incomplete.


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By RobC2
Jan 1, 2013
This..

Tammy Payne wrote:
Awesome! Thanks :o) If you hear from your friends, let me know how their climb went. Anything else in the area in and worthy of attacking?

I did Glenwood Falls solo maybe in 1995(?) leashes one piece suit etc. It was a cloudy day very cold one chunk of ice came down while I suited up but the clouds rolled in so I headed up. Right at the top of the steep ice there was a hole in the ice and when I looked down the hole I could see my own shadow against the ice there was nothing but flowing water under me and the thin pane of vertical ice I was on...

Before I had begun the approach from the road a CDOT worker had tried to talk me out of going he apparently didn't want to have to look for my mangled body. I stepped over the guard rail en route and nearly fell over the memorial to the two guys killed when the thing had collapsed.

This is one to avoid I would say. Absolutely not worth anyone's life...


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By Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Jan 2, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.

Anyone in Boulder see or climb ice/neve on Silk Road this week?

Cold in RMNP and no ice forming, mostly sublimating w/ 0 to 3' of snow depending on where you go.

And no Squid or Jaws yet?


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By Cor
Jan 2, 2013
black nasty

Hey Eli,

Did the silkroad a few days ago...
It was pretty damn thin, and all of the snow was
mostly loose. No good neve snow that I could find.

It may get better, but my guess is not. I suspect it
will all sublimate away with the current forecast.

There was many no falling zones. One useful piece of
gear was a whisk broom to dust off holds.
All the pitches required gloved crampon climbing.

I will say I found one (can you believe it?!) spot to
sink a stubby ice screw to the hilt... There was rock
gear near by though.

Cor

PS: Any word on conditions @ Loch Vale ice park?

Silk Road P1.
Silk Road P1.



Silkroad P2.
Silkroad P2.


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By John lewis
Jan 2, 2013

Did Lincoln today, like -5 with wind, ice is super hard and brittle a lot of dinner plates and some of the towers were pretty hollow. Enough holes already to just hook the whole way up though.


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By Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Jan 3, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.

Thanks for the beta Cor, looks good enough to try today and maybe some heat will lead to quick neve formation?
The word on Loch Vale this week from a friend: climbed Mo Flow than Go, as Crystal Meth and L of Lochluster don't seem to want to grow much. The ice was brittle and old.


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By Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Jan 3, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.

Dreamweaver is soft snow, no ice until May.
Lambslide is loaded with avi potential.
Martha is likely forming into a firmer snow and ice route under the current weather trend (sunny and warming).


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By Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Jan 3, 2013
Long day on the ice.

Cotton Balls.
Cotton Balls.


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By Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Jan 3, 2013
Long day on the ice.

The Sherman Climb from start of pitch 3. Pitch 4 was WI-5.
The Sherman Climb from start of pitch 3. Pitch 4 was WI-5.


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By Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Jan 3, 2013

Rick McL wrote:

Hey Rick, cotton Balls looks awesome, but, ehmmm, where is it? Couldn't find it on Mountain Project...


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By Rick McL
From Arvada CO
Jan 4, 2013
Long day on the ice.

Nina GJ wrote:
Hey Rick, cotton Balls looks awesome, but, ehmmm, where is it? Couldn't find it on Mountain Project...


Nina,
Hi.
We got the name "Cotton Balls" In Jack Roberts guide book "Colorado Ice" volume 1 on page 131. I believe that it was unnamed until Jack gave the route this designation at the time he wrote the book. The climb is a few hundred yards west of "Cotton Picker & Cotton Mouth", both a mile and a half up canyon from the mighty "Sherman Climb" in Sherman CO, 20 miles west of Lake City, CO.


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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Jan 4, 2013
Profile Icon

Hey, I was curious too so I looked it up in Jack's book (and on the internet).

It's in the Lake City section of the book. Page 131.

Here's a link with a description:
books.google.com/books?id=iEFhhtZ48okC&pg=PA131&lpg=PA131&dq>>>

Cuba Gulch is the name of the area. Here's a pin on Google Maps to Cuba Gulch

https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=215535635608246236418.0>>>


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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Jan 4, 2013
Profile Icon

LOL. I wasn't quite fast enough. DOH.


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By Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Jan 4, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.

Silk Road has ice and firm enough snow- likely improving conditions over the weekend. It was warm yesterday and we didn't see any water flowing and only minimal ice fall on the 1st Flatiron.

Art on the first ice section of Silk Road, 1st Flatiron. <br />
Art on the first ice section of Silk Road, 1st Flatiron.


A full double rack of camalots up to #2 plus a #4 made it a sew-up where necessary. Recommended to leave the nuts and screws behind.


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By Jeremy Espinoza
From Denver, CO
Jan 4, 2013
Dry tooling near the shroud.

Any word on tenmile ice and avi conditions? Looking to go there tomorrow.

Thanks!


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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Jan 4, 2013
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan

Can the north face of longs hold enough snow to 'lanche? It is on the most dangerous aspect for the problem we have right now.


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By Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Jan 4, 2013

Rick McL wrote:
Nina, Hi. We got the name "Cotton Balls" In Jack Roberts guide book "Colorado Ice" volume 1 on page 131. I beleive that it was unnamed until Jack gave the route this designation at the time he wrote the book. The climb is a few hundred yards west of "Cotton Picker & Cotton Mouth", both a mile and a half up canyon from the mighty "Sherman Climb" in Sherman CO, 20 miles west of Lake City, CO.

Thanks guys! Found it now in the book. Hope to check it out when we are in Lake City in two weeks...


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By Darren D.
Jan 4, 2013

Speaking of Lake City, does the ice park have climable ice yet? Is it open? Thanks.


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