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The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Dec 13, 2011
resole
kdavis105 wrote:
Anyone seen CCC lately?

Checked it this noon. Coors and lower pitch of Mickey's still have virtually no ice.
Chad R. Johnson
From Loveland, CO
Joined Dec 12, 2009
53 points
Dec 13, 2011
funkyicemonkey wrote:
Anybody been in Glenwood Canyon? How does it look? Im guessing not so good... Hidden falls possibly?


I was out there today. Glenwood falls was starting to fatten up but it looks like the the warm weather has taken a toll on what was there. Hidden looks fat from the road, but the tyrolean is gone due to the high runoff last spring so take your waders.
Josh8384
From Glenwood springs, colorado
Joined Nov 18, 2010
0 points
Dec 14, 2011
Climbed the east face gully on the first flatiron this morning. Verrrry thin ice. The ice doesn't reach the ground, so we traversed into the gully from the right side. Bring your sharpest picks and a ropegun. k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
Dec 14, 2011
me on my redpoint
Ice park opens this weekend! who is going to go for the opening? I may have to drive down from GJ for the day for some ice park goodness. Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Dec 14, 2011
Did the Third Flatiron this morning. Ice thin but doable. Probably enough for one more day before she melts away. The face comes back into the shade around 12:15pm. jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
62 points
Dec 14, 2011
climbed avocado gully in redstone today... thin but in, ice is super sticky - read: wet, only about 8 inches wide at the top of the 2nd pitch, bomber S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Dec 15, 2011
Has anybody seen the conditions going out to Jewell Lake, West Gully/BLS area? I was told that there was a fallen tree that was causing access issues. I guess the trail was not passable and alternate ways around were a no go as well.? An update would be greatly appreciated, or a contact with the Park Service so that it can get fixed.
Thanks!
rockclimber50
Joined Oct 23, 2009
26 points
Dec 15, 2011
Laura C. Mack wrote:
Has anybody seen the conditions going out to Jewell Lake, West Gully/BLS area? I was told that there was a fallen tree that was causing access issues. I guess the trail was not passable and alternate ways around were a no go as well.? An update would be greatly appreciated, or a contact with the Park Service so that it can get fixed. Thanks!


It is not so much a fallen tree as hundreds of fallen trees up to 3 feet in diameter. They start above Mills and Jewell Lake so you can still access Jewell Lake. The route is very much impassable on skis and somewhat passable on snow shoes but expect to take a lot of extra time going up there. There is no way the park service will be able to clean any of it until the spring/summer.
Brian Stefanovic
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jun 25, 2010
2 points
Dec 15, 2011
Clear Creek Canyon, Capitalist Crag
What do avy conditions look like around Martha/Flying Dutchman? Anyone been up there recently? The CAIC website just has a general "Moderate" for the entire front range. Any specifics are appreciated! Robert Buswold
From Longmont, CO
Joined Jul 5, 2010
55 points
Dec 16, 2011
preparing to rap over a crevasse; Mt. Waddington, ...


Robert Buswold wrote:
What do avy conditions look like around Martha/Flying Dutchman? Anyone been up there recently? The CAIC website just has a general "Moderate" for the entire front range. Any specifics are appreciated!


The Chasam lake cirque is pretty dry. Went up lambs slide on Sunday, and there was decent layer of snow low down, but up higher it was either bare bulletproof snice or that with a 3" layer of old wind slab clinging to it. You could see where that slab had fractured and slid, but it looked old. We stayed away from it as much as possible, and didn't witness any active instability, but it's something to be careful of. I assume Dutchman would be the same, but since Martha is a completely different aspect, I can't speak to that.
OReid
From Denver, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2010
40 points
Dec 17, 2011
Has anyone climbed the Fang yet? Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 14, 2004
154 points
Dec 18, 2011
Gandalf's Beard is nothing but snow covered rock with a tiny amount of ice on the top pitch, as of a few days ago. This climb will likely not be coming in this season unfortunately - at least not anywhere near what it normally is. Vic
Joined Aug 12, 2010
544 points
Dec 19, 2011
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
There has been a high of the low 40's the last couple of days in Ouray. Needless to say it was really t-shirt climbing weather. Ice park is open and is doing alright. Skylight area is good in parts, extremely wet in other parts. Bird Brain is "in" along with the Ribbon. Snowpack is rather interesting. I don't think I'd get on the Ribbon now but that's just me. People are still getting on it. The Talisman is not looking so good. Only the top pitch looks kind of formed. Needs to get colder. Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
999 points
Dec 19, 2011
Anybody been up to Silverplume or Lincoln Falls in thelast couple days? I'm heading up tomorrow. Joseph Wright
Joined Jan 16, 2010
0 points
Dec 19, 2011
Hey Joseph. To give you a heads up, we are heading to Silverplume with a gang of folks Tuesday am. Glad to share space if we see you there, but just thought you might want to know. Jim Davidson
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Joined Nov 22, 2006
32 points
Dec 19, 2011
Went to Lincoln falls yesterday..............The place is going off!!

I don't usually don't say this but there is a ton of interesting ice. Also some mixed stuff that isn't extreme but good fun and well protected AND lots of room in case there are several parties there.
I had a fun day climbing hard ice and interesting mixed. And I didn't encounter an traffic problems..........
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
62 points
Dec 19, 2011
Me seconding the Hobbit Roof after Jarod Sickler's...
Climbed Three Tiers in Ten Mile today. Still fat. Still fun.

Tony's and The Shroud looked fat as well.

Great year for Colorado ice!
Hoag
From Littleton, CO
Joined Jun 29, 2009
49 points
Dec 19, 2011
Takin flight on the 'sky swing'
Ames Ice Hose looks fat and plastic-y, ice to ground Stiles
From the Mountains
Joined May 21, 2003
791 points
Dec 19, 2011
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.
AMU: Climbed the line in the center today. All ice, no need for rock gear.

AMU 12.19.11.
AMU 12.19.11.
Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 15, 2011
167 points
Dec 20, 2011
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP...
Joseph Wright wrote:
Anybody been up to Silverplume or Lincoln Falls in thelast couple days? I'm heading up tomorrow.


Hey Joseph! Me and two friends are headed to Lincoln tomorrow. Apparently it is very much in, and as Jack has said, it's big enough to accommodate many parties (according to my friends at least). It's going to be chilly though for sure.

Hope to see ya there!
Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2009
46 points
Dec 20, 2011
The ribbon is in good shape. Bit thin on the bottom, but not too bad. Didn't have too much coming down. GR Johnson
Joined Jan 15, 2010
111 points
Dec 21, 2011
Chain station area by Wolf Creek is in good. Bigcicle and many of the mixed lines lef of it are in really good shape. Treasure falls is in FAT. Other climbs are also int, but, we've been getting a lot of snow and avy danger is still iffy... Ray Hellinger
From Zion...for the most part
Joined Feb 2, 2006
378 points
Dec 21, 2011
Went to Lincoln two days ago.......Very much in. The upper column has shrunk some and is cracked in two spots so be gentle when leading or climbing on it. We brought some cams and small nuts for the mixed climbs.........a couple of Stubbies wouldn't hurt.
Found some dropped screws and 'biners while we were there. If people keep this up I'll be able to have a ice gear garage sale at the end of the season!!
jack roberts
Joined Oct 30, 2002
62 points
Dec 25, 2011
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Ice report from the I70 drive...

Officers gulch is about the best I've seen it. 3 tiers is ice top to bottom instead of the usual snow covering most of the climbing. Tony's and Round the corner look great. Not much snow obvious up high but make your own assessment.

Vail - Desi looks good and Fang is well connected (guess the cable worked) and probably lead able depending on temps etc. Everything else looks very good.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Dec 26, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
BoCan ice is barely in at the Upper Falls. If you climb it, please be gentle at the top so that it can still be led. Definitely not as fat as past years, boo :(

Is CCC forming at all?
Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points


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