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The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Chad R. Johnson
From Loveland, CO
Dec 13, 2011
resole
kdavis105 wrote:
Anyone seen CCC lately?

Checked it this noon. Coors and lower pitch of Mickey's still have virtually no ice.

FLAG
By Josh8384
From Glenwood springs, colorado
Dec 13, 2011
funkyicemonkey wrote:
Anybody been in Glenwood Canyon? How does it look? Im guessing not so good... Hidden falls possibly?


I was out there today. Glenwood falls was starting to fatten up but it looks like the the warm weather has taken a toll on what was there. Hidden looks fat from the road, but the tyrolean is gone due to the high runoff last spring so take your waders.

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By k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Dec 14, 2011
Climbed the east face gully on the first flatiron this morning. Verrrry thin ice. The ice doesn't reach the ground, so we traversed into the gully from the right side. Bring your sharpest picks and a ropegun.

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By Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Dec 14, 2011
me on my redpoint
Ice park opens this weekend! who is going to go for the opening? I may have to drive down from GJ for the day for some ice park goodness.

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By jack roberts
Dec 14, 2011
Did the Third Flatiron this morning. Ice thin but doable. Probably enough for one more day before she melts away. The face comes back into the shade around 12:15pm.

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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Dec 14, 2011
climbed avocado gully in redstone today... thin but in, ice is super sticky - read: wet, only about 8 inches wide at the top of the 2nd pitch, bomber

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By rockclimber50
Dec 15, 2011
Has anybody seen the conditions going out to Jewell Lake, West Gully/BLS area? I was told that there was a fallen tree that was causing access issues. I guess the trail was not passable and alternate ways around were a no go as well.? An update would be greatly appreciated, or a contact with the Park Service so that it can get fixed.
Thanks!

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By Brian Stefanovic
From Fort Collins, CO
Dec 15, 2011
Laura C. Mack wrote:
Has anybody seen the conditions going out to Jewell Lake, West Gully/BLS area? I was told that there was a fallen tree that was causing access issues. I guess the trail was not passable and alternate ways around were a no go as well.? An update would be greatly appreciated, or a contact with the Park Service so that it can get fixed. Thanks!


It is not so much a fallen tree as hundreds of fallen trees up to 3 feet in diameter. They start above Mills and Jewell Lake so you can still access Jewell Lake. The route is very much impassable on skis and somewhat passable on snow shoes but expect to take a lot of extra time going up there. There is no way the park service will be able to clean any of it until the spring/summer.

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By Robert Buswold
From Longmont, CO
Dec 15, 2011
Clear Creek Canyon, Capitalist Crag
What do avy conditions look like around Martha/Flying Dutchman? Anyone been up there recently? The CAIC website just has a general "Moderate" for the entire front range. Any specifics are appreciated!

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By OReid
From Denver, CO
Dec 16, 2011
preparing to rap over a crevasse; Mt. Waddington, Bravo Glacier Route


Robert Buswold wrote:
What do avy conditions look like around Martha/Flying Dutchman? Anyone been up there recently? The CAIC website just has a general "Moderate" for the entire front range. Any specifics are appreciated!


The Chasam lake cirque is pretty dry. Went up lambs slide on Sunday, and there was decent layer of snow low down, but up higher it was either bare bulletproof snice or that with a 3" layer of old wind slab clinging to it. You could see where that slab had fractured and slid, but it looked old. We stayed away from it as much as possible, and didn't witness any active instability, but it's something to be careful of. I assume Dutchman would be the same, but since Martha is a completely different aspect, I can't speak to that.

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By Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Dec 17, 2011
Has anyone climbed the Fang yet?

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By Vic
Dec 18, 2011
Gandalf's Beard is nothing but snow covered rock with a tiny amount of ice on the top pitch, as of a few days ago. This climb will likely not be coming in this season unfortunately - at least not anywhere near what it normally is.

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By Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Dec 19, 2011
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, weird roof since the curtain broke off. Photo by Cody Olsen.
There has been a high of the low 40's the last couple of days in Ouray. Needless to say it was really t-shirt climbing weather. Ice park is open and is doing alright. Skylight area is good in parts, extremely wet in other parts. Bird Brain is "in" along with the Ribbon. Snowpack is rather interesting. I don't think I'd get on the Ribbon now but that's just me. People are still getting on it. The Talisman is not looking so good. Only the top pitch looks kind of formed. Needs to get colder.

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By Joseph Wright
Dec 19, 2011
Anybody been up to Silverplume or Lincoln Falls in thelast couple days? I'm heading up tomorrow.

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By Jim Davidson
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Dec 19, 2011
Hey Joseph. To give you a heads up, we are heading to Silverplume with a gang of folks Tuesday am. Glad to share space if we see you there, but just thought you might want to know.

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By jack roberts
Dec 19, 2011
Went to Lincoln falls yesterday..............The place is going off!!

I don't usually don't say this but there is a ton of interesting ice. Also some mixed stuff that isn't extreme but good fun and well protected AND lots of room in case there are several parties there.
I had a fun day climbing hard ice and interesting mixed. And I didn't encounter an traffic problems..........

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By Hoag
From Littleton, CO
Dec 19, 2011
Me seconding the Hobbit Roof after Jarod Sickler's lead.
Climbed Three Tiers in Ten Mile today. Still fat. Still fun.

Tony's and The Shroud looked fat as well.

Great year for Colorado ice!

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By Stiles
From the Mountains
Dec 19, 2011
Rough
Ames Ice Hose looks fat and plastic-y, ice to ground

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By Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Dec 19, 2011
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.
AMU: Climbed the line in the center today. All ice, no need for rock gear.

AMU 12.19.11.
AMU 12.19.11.

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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Dec 20, 2011
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP.
Joseph Wright wrote:
Anybody been up to Silverplume or Lincoln Falls in thelast couple days? I'm heading up tomorrow.


Hey Joseph! Me and two friends are headed to Lincoln tomorrow. Apparently it is very much in, and as Jack has said, it's big enough to accommodate many parties (according to my friends at least). It's going to be chilly though for sure.

Hope to see ya there!

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By GR Johnson
Dec 20, 2011
The ribbon is in good shape. Bit thin on the bottom, but not too bad. Didn't have too much coming down.

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By Ray Hellinger
From Flagstaff, az
Dec 21, 2011
Chain station area by Wolf Creek is in good. Bigcicle and many of the mixed lines lef of it are in really good shape. Treasure falls is in FAT. Other climbs are also int, but, we've been getting a lot of snow and avy danger is still iffy...

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By jack roberts
Dec 21, 2011
Went to Lincoln two days ago.......Very much in. The upper column has shrunk some and is cracked in two spots so be gentle when leading or climbing on it. We brought some cams and small nuts for the mixed climbs.........a couple of Stubbies wouldn't hurt.
Found some dropped screws and 'biners while we were there. If people keep this up I'll be able to have a ice gear garage sale at the end of the season!!

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By Kevin Craig
Dec 25, 2011
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Ice report from the I70 drive...

Officers gulch is about the best I've seen it. 3 tiers is ice top to bottom instead of the usual snow covering most of the climbing. Tony's and Round the corner look great. Not much snow obvious up high but make your own assessment.

Vail - Desi looks good and Fang is well connected (guess the cable worked) and probably lead able depending on temps etc. Everything else looks very good.

FLAG
 
By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Dec 26, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
BoCan ice is barely in at the Upper Falls. If you climb it, please be gentle at the top so that it can still be led. Definitely not as fat as past years, boo :(

Is CCC forming at all?

FLAG


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