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The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Feb 25, 2012
Went back to Drool in Redstone, the Drool has a two inch fracture running from the right about 1/3rd ten foot under the "rest" half way up. Still OK and great fun, but degrading fast. By the way if anyone heads up there I replaced the belay on the right by moving it back one tree and replaced the sun bleached (and actually quite weak) old tat with new red webbing... Please bring up a sharpie and mark the webbing tail with "Feb 12". I left my sharpie in the car - Doh! funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Feb 25, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: RJN
Thanks guys! Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
173 points
Feb 26, 2012
+1 on the Designator, all beat up. Centre line lots of fun though - developing a fracture at 2/3rd height. funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Mar 4, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Sitting back and enjoying the winter star's - disp...
Jaws RMNP - Photo 3/3/12
Rock Climbing Photo: Jaws - 3/3/12.
Jaws - 3/3/12.
Pine Sap
Joined Feb 26, 2007
1,601 points
Mar 4, 2012
Anyone...conditions in Ouray/Silverton fro next weekend?
Thanks,
L.
perropirana
Joined Nov 1, 2008
29 points
Mar 4, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
perropirana wrote:
Anyone...conditions in Ouray/Silverton fro next weekend? Thanks, L.


Fat with scary snow conditions.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
1,091 points
Mar 5, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Laps in Ouray
Climbed Vail 03/04, Seventh Tentacle is in good shape. RD looks pretty picked out. Spiral Stair Case it really picked out, however the left side near Secret Probation is steep and not to hooked out yet.

The fang shroom is huge!
Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Joined Aug 22, 2005
114 points
Mar 8, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: RJN
Any recent beta on lambs slide/kieners? Anyone done this before with just some general beta? A car to car average would be really helpful? Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
173 points
Administrator
Mar 10, 2012
FWIW, Hidden Falls at RMNP is changing a bit. The left side seems to be melting out a bit, the water has switched to the right side, but it sprays the middle of the flow, and the pillar to the right is really hooked out, making it harder to find ice to place screws.

Also, the S. St. Vrain flow is about as fat as it's been per a friend who drives by weekly.

Rock Climbing Photo: On 3/9/12, it took medium screws on the lower bit ...
On 3/9/12, it took medium screws on the lower bit and the steeper bit below the rap tree. The ice in the middle and above the tree was stubby terrain.
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,682 points
Mar 10, 2012
Did some climbing on the SE Face of flattop and got some good shots of Hallett Chimney and Dragontails. Hallett appears to be in great shape as well as the Dragontails.

Rock Climbing Photo: Hallett Chimney.
Hallett Chimney.



Rock Climbing Photo: Dragon's Tail.
Dragon's Tail.
Jon E.
Joined Aug 12, 2011
50 points
Mar 12, 2012
Leo Paik wrote:
FWIW, Hidden Falls at RMNP is changing a bit. The left side seems to be melting out a bit, the water has switched to the right side, but it sprays the middle of the flow, and the pillar to the right is really hooked out, making it harder to find ice to place screws.


I have a few friends in town who are looking to climb some ice. Any idea what to expect later in the week at Hidden Falls? Will there still be some ice to climb? I imagine, based on these temperatures, it'll be quite wet.
JonW
Joined Apr 30, 2010
9 points
Mar 12, 2012
hidden falls was fat as off last thursday, bring rock gear too, moderate mix on the left raoul
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 5, 2011
0 points
Mar 14, 2012
Hello, looking for conditions in Vail/Silverthorn as well as RMNP for this weekend. Flying in from Nashville, TN, if there is any ice.

Any help would be appreciated!
ToZion
Joined Mar 14, 2012
0 points
Mar 14, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: me on my redpoint
Vail looked pretty good last weekend while driving by. Wont have long up there though. Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Mar 16, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Hitchhiking in Arches
Hidden Falls Update; Conditions are very warm, but the main falls is hugh so it should be around for a while; The Dangler on the other hand is about done dangling!


Rock Climbing Photo: The Dangler.
The Dangler.




Rock Climbing Photo: Hidden Falls Left.
Hidden Falls Left.
Tom Willard
From Avon, CO
Joined Jan 5, 2005
174 points
Mar 17, 2012
Thanks Dave and Tom! We are here now having a great time! ToZion
Joined Mar 14, 2012
0 points
Mar 18, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: me on my redpoint
Ice Park will be closed as of this Wednesday. The place was falling apart today. Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Mar 19, 2012
i'm thinking with the succession of warm days and cold nights and no new snow for quite a while, skywalker might be safe to climb and ski already. at least early in the day. but i wouldn't mind hearing what others might think about that raoul
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 5, 2011
0 points
Mar 19, 2012
Climbed Martha Thursday, 3/15 and was surprised by the shape of the climb. No ice, mostly snow and the crux sections are entirely rock. The descent down the east slopes was completely dry. JonW
Joined Apr 30, 2010
9 points
Mar 19, 2012
eric bianciotto wrote:
i'm thinking with the succession of warm days and cold nights and no new snow for quite a while, skywalker might be safe to climb and ski already. at least early in the day. but i wouldn't mind hearing what others might think about that


heard 2nd hand it wasnt even filled in through the choke. It definitely is seeming pretty solid though on S. aspects in the front range.
Jason Killgore
From boulder, co
Joined Sep 18, 2008
179 points
Mar 19, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: One Way Sunset
Ouray Ice Park

I do not believe Ouray Ice Park is closing on Wednesday, March 21, 2012---as a poster upstream mentioned.

I am here now.

I believe they are shooting for the end of the month---March 2012.

Some lines that take a great deal of sun are closed.

The big areas are still mostly open. The ice seems quite nice, albeit a bit beat out.

I do not think they are spraying water at night any more (Monday, March 19, 2012), but the big freeze/thaw cyle seems to be working even better---less califlower.

The "conditions page" is useful: ourayicepark.com/travel-planne...

Have fun.

Scott Mc
Scott M. McNamara
From Tucson, Arizona
Joined Aug 15, 2006
78 points
Mar 19, 2012
I've been out of town for a couple weeks and looks like there is still some ice to go around. Where are the best condition with in 2hrs of Denver, RMNP, Vail? Sounds like the snow is stabilizing now so Offices? Any other suggestions? Thanks for the Beta. Spooner
From Denver
Joined Apr 21, 2010
0 points
Mar 19, 2012
Was at Vail on 3/16. Everything in Designator Ampitheater is still good. The RD and The Thang are still great, as well as the other mixed lines behind The Fang. Should be there for at least two weeks, more there are some clear skies at night with some cold weather. T Casey
From Lander
Joined Oct 3, 2011
18 points
Mar 20, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: me on my redpoint
Scott M. McNamara wrote:
Ouray Ice Park I do not believe Ouray Ice Park is closing on Wednesday, March 21, 2012---as a poster upstream mentioned. I am here now. I believe they are shooting for the end of the month---March 2012. Some lines that take a great deal of sun are closed. The big areas are still mostly open. The ice seems quite nice, albeit a bit beat out. I do not think they are spraying water at night any more (Monday, March 19, 2012), but the big freeze/thaw cyle seems to be working even better---less califlower. The "conditions page" is useful: ourayicepark.com/travel-planne... Have fun. Scott Mc


I hope your right, I was told that from one of the employees of the park. If it stays cold there is no reason not to stay open.
Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Mar 25, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully...
Well it was crazy dry up in RMNP today. We climbed the NE ridge of Notchtop as a dry (mostly), warm, sunny rock climb. There was still plenty of snow on the E face of Notchtop and a little ice, but hit it way early if your interested. Looking across the valley, there was about as much snow in the right Ptarmigan finger as there was when I climbed the route last July. And there were mosquitoes out. Really, in March!

Overall there's continuous snow from the trailhead, but the snow is very well consolidated and no floatation was needed. North Facing aspects have been swept clean of snow by the crazy winds we've had an overall look to have about as much snow as they typically have in June. East facing aspects are reasonably well filled in with good firm snowpack. Now might be an excellent time to climb route where a a good firm snow pack can make a lot of difference (E Face of Taylor comes to mind).

South facing rock routes are dry and ready to go, so if it stays warm, climbs like the petit will be just like your average summer day except the snow at the base.

North facing route that hold a lot of snow are likely coming into good shape(Hourglass couloir, Hallett Chimney). I didn't get a direct look, but based on stuff I saw at similar aspects and elevations, Hallett chimney would be worth a go. Unless we get some more spring snow, it likely woln't last long this season. Routes that don't hold a lot of snow (Vanquished, Sister Sweetly) probably have slimer than normal changes of coming in to shape at all this season.

On the drive home, I got a decent view of Meeker and Longs, Dreamweaver is just a thin line of snow. the upper half of Fields Chimney looks completely dry.
Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 18, 2006
1,656 points


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