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The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Feb 10, 2012
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
This past Sunday, Redstone Pillar was in but much thinner than last year. Left side was very dry and funky ice, pro was reasonable; far right had much better ice but the start is fairly technical. Right side up top was running water; pretty chandeliery but better ice than it appears from the ground. Huge track beat in on approach. Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Feb 11, 2012
First morning at Indian Creek!!!
Lincoln Falls: Left side = Super Fat. However the pillar is a constant disappearing act.

Any beta on CCC - Hoping to get some apres work sessions in this week.
J Antin
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2009
1,069 points
Feb 12, 2012
the creek
Verne wrote:
Does anyone know what this climb is called? This is the view from the road (about 1.5 miles away so its big). San Juan Mountains.

Santa Claus Pillar - Hwy 110, WI5 75M
Adam Derick Andrade
From Silverton, CO
Joined Sep 6, 2009
81 points
Feb 12, 2012
mixed ice route
CCC routes are hammered. Brian Tessier
From Lakehood, Colorado
Joined Dec 7, 2003
320 points
Feb 12, 2012
Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully...
My friend and I climbed the Silk Road yesterday. Pretty good ice all the way up to the ledge where you meet up with the direct east face route. We continued up to the summit with the aid of a hand broom to sweep off the footholds.

Lets all please be mindful of crampon scratch marks once you've joined the direct east face. My friend led the pitch to the summit ridge with crampons on, being very careful to minimize the scratching. With the benefit of a top rope, I then followed the pitch without crampons, slipping on several occasions, but at least doing what I could to minimize our impact. We both went without crampons from that point on.
Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 18, 2006
1,635 points
Feb 12, 2012
OMG, I winz!!!
Agreed Chris. We took our pons off at the ridge last year. Obviously this is conditions dependent but scratches are visible if you know where to look. Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Feb 12, 2012
crevasse climbing on the Matnuska, AK
Having been off MP for a while, figured I'd jump back in with some sort of contribution! Hit up Hidden Falls in the park for some solo practice yesterday and it was VERY fat. Mixed line was filling in on the right and the small flow to the left is also very in. Went up to Rollinsville today and the north side flow was a bit brittle but fat as well.

Hidden Falls Left Flow, RMNP.
Hidden Falls Left Flow, RMNP.

Hidden Falls Main Flow, RMNP.
Hidden Falls Main Flow, RMNP.

North Side Flow, Moffat Tunnel.
North Side Flow, Moffat Tunnel.
Anthony Arena
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 12, 2010
105 points
Feb 13, 2012
Climbed on Grace falls in RMNP on Sunday. The falls are huge this year with everything from WI3 to hard WI4+. We approached the falls from the left side . The slope below the main falls is solid, but up and to the left there has been a slide as can be seen in the photo.
Grace Falls.
Grace Falls.

Hotdoggie is also in great shape.
Hot Doggie.
Hot Doggie.
Gordon Laurens
Joined Nov 18, 2009
58 points
Feb 15, 2012
Found quickdraw up at Haflin Creek in Durango. It has a sharpie "DW" written on the sling. PM me if you want it back TylerVaughan
From Glenwood Springs, Colorado
Joined Oct 26, 2010
243 points
Feb 15, 2012
me on my redpoint
Ice Park is still in great shape! Avi Danger in the San Juans is bad. The snowpack is very unstable. Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Feb 15, 2012
Thrill is Gone
TylerVaughan wrote:
Found quickdraw up at Haflin Creek in Durango. It has a sharpie "DW" written on the sling. PM me if you want it back

Upper Haflin or lower? I want to get on upper Haflin, but it hasn't been in that I've seen.
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
552 points
Feb 16, 2012
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp
anymore climbed Martha couloir recently or know how much snow has fallen up there in the last week or so? thanks Andrew Mayer
Joined Nov 14, 2010
113 points
Feb 19, 2012
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
I'm also curious about Martha. I'll be heading up there next week so can report back then but wondered if it was still more snow than ice since there have been a couple snow events and it hasn't been too warm in Estes.

Also wanted some beta on a ski descent. I've been in the Chasm View/Long's Peak area plenty but not up Lady Washington. In the NP webcam it appears to have snow on it but I don't know how good it would be for a descent. Is it pretty continuous or mostly rocky? The terrain seems like it might get pretty wind hammered (it is The Park after all). The angle looks pretty mellow but specifics would be nice given the snow pack. The climbing is pretty easy but how is it in ski boots carrying skis?
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2008
305 points
Feb 19, 2012
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp
Climbed martha yesterday. Predominately soft, deep snow and rock. Very little ice.

jmeizis - there is not enough snow to ski the north or east faces of mt. lady washington. camel couloir on the southwest face might be filled in, but I don't know.
Andrew Mayer
Joined Nov 14, 2010
113 points
Feb 19, 2012
climbing in Valle di Mello, Italy
Went to the base of Jaws today. While it looked good from the trail,once at the base you saw just how wet and thin it was. There was a constant barrage of ice chunks from above that ranged to both sides of the falls. We did not feel it would be safe to climb or even to stand at the base. We got there before 9am.
Stephen Marsh
From Thornton, CO
Joined Apr 9, 2005
163 points
Feb 20, 2012
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jad...
TylerVaughan wrote:
Found quickdraw up at Haflin Creek in Durango. It has a sharpie "DW" written on the sling. PM me if you want it back

Hey Tyler,

Didn't realize I was missing one but I've been up in Haflin lately and I have written "DW" in sharpie on all my draws... Is it a black diamond with a hotwire wiregate on one end and some sort of keylock biner on the other? Blue sharpie DW?

Thanks for posting up!
Dylan Weldin
From Austin, Texas
Joined Dec 5, 2010
1,494 points
Feb 21, 2012
Redstone - Avacado is better than it was, 1st pitch still way harder than WI3, the ice is a bit thin on the first pitch but the crux can be protected by a 2 1/2 cam low and right. Second pitch is Terrific. Drool is superbe, but getting beaten up. funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Feb 21, 2012
Got on the ice in CCC yesterday and it is getting better. A little spase, a little hacked out, a little drippy in places but definitely climbable. It seems like the warm days are allowing some flow and the cold nights are freezing it up. It's tepmting to admonish people to stay off it till it fills in more but in reality, if you're in metro Denver with limited time it really is your best option. Probably better advice is "Get it while you can".
Dave Dunlap leading pitch one of "Mickey's&qu...
Dave Dunlap leading pitch one of "Mickey's".

Dave Dunlap solo at the top of "Mickey's"...
Dave Dunlap solo at the top of "Mickey's". There wasn't enough ice to protect, so this was the best option. "Coors Lite" is in all the way to the top.
David Sweet
From Moscow, ID
Joined Jan 30, 2007
221 points
Feb 22, 2012
Flatirons were great last week, but sadly that ship has sailed by now.

Jason Killgore
From boulder, co
Joined Sep 18, 2008
178 points
Feb 24, 2012
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
Phil Wortmann and I took advantage of a brief window of sunny, calm weather and made a ascent of Brain Freeze in RMNP last weekend . Route had scraps of ice on every pitch but was mostly steep snow and mixed at M5 or so.I imagine things will fatten up a bit later in the season. Some avi hazard on the approach slopes and descent. Fun route!
Ze Route.
Ze Route.

3rd pitch.
3rd pitch.
erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Joined Apr 3, 2008
370 points
Feb 25, 2012
Mountain Bandito
erikwellborn wrote:
Some avi hazard on the approach slopes and descent. Fun route!

What Avi Danger?
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,952 points
Feb 25, 2012
Jason Killgore wrote:
Flatirons were great last week, but sadly that ship has sailed by now. youtu.be/46t5-1MJZBE

Those conditions looked fabulous! I had been wanting to get on it a week and a half ago but couldn't get a partner. I've been on it a couple times in the past and conditions this last snowstorm seemed to be exceptional. Glad you enjoyed it.
David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
350 points
Feb 25, 2012
Powder day
If you are headed up to Vail to run laps on Pumphouse anytime soon, you have Rodney P to thank for installing the trough. Nice work today Rodney, thanks for yet another entertaining wallow. Sorry again about playing pin the tail on your new rope, please do save that piece for me when you tidy up. Buck
Joined Mar 19, 2005
35 points
Feb 25, 2012
Anyone have additional driving beta for avocado gully? I have a vague idea from the current mp beta but could use extra help. Thx! Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
173 points
Feb 25, 2012
take 133 south of carbondale for ~10 miles til the canyon around the road gets it's narrowest. park on the left, cross the road, approach is prolly 6 mins. if you hit the redstone campground you've gone too far. PM me if you need more info S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points

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