By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
May 10, 2011
| Ran up and down the Dragons Tail and Tooth this morning. We found somewhat punchy conditions on the apron and nice firm snow in the couloirs. Good solid freeze last night and it was still 29 deg at Bear Lake when we left the truck. The sun was out as we walked back to the car but the snow never softened while we were on it (sorry skiers).
Really well filled in so it's pretty much all snow except for some very easy scrambling near the top of the Tooth. It would be hard to keep skis on though for that one section. The big cornices still loom over the right exit to the Tail so we stayed in the left branch and near the left side while climbing. People have been skiing the right side judging by the tracks but I didn't want to spend time exposed climbing under them as they'll pop off eventually and they're large.
Anyway tonight and tomorrow's weather may change things but as of 5/10 they were good snow climbing. Spring is almost here. | 
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By J. Fox
From Black Hawk, CO
May 11, 2011
| Chris Plesko wrote: Holy f**k
+1...those are massive!!! |
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By Spencer Purvis
From Golden, CO.
May 14, 2011
| How is Lincoln Falls hanging in there? Anyone been up there in the past week or so? |
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By LIV
May 19, 2011
| Did Martha on th 14th of May - snow down below the constriction was solid. Through the constriction, it was bomber, with one mixed/ice pitch. Above the couloir, it is a mixed bag. We hit it on a very hot day, and moved up that slope to the top of Lady Washington very quickly. Go get it, but go early, early. |
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By JonW
May 20, 2011
| Anyone have a sense for how much snow fell in RMNP from this latest storm? I'm trying to get some first hand knowledge before the CAIC Friday evening report comes out. They no longer provide region specific updates. I would like to climb Martha this weekend if it's going to be safe. Thanks! |
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By Francis Kelsey
May 20, 2011
| up there you'll probably need something longer than a yard stick to measure |
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By Scott Bower
From Fort Collins, CO
May 20, 2011
| JonW wrote: Anyone have a sense for how much snow fell in RMNP from this latest storm? I'm trying to get some first hand knowledge before the CAIC Friday evening report comes out. They no longer provide region specific updates. I would like to climb Martha this weekend if it's going to be safe. Thanks!
www.wcc.nrcs.usda.gov/nwcc/sntl-datarpt.jsp?site=322&days=7&>>>
Looks to me like 16 inches over the last two days at Bear Lake. Probably more higher up. 90% chance of more snow today. |
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By Chacal
From Vail, CO
May 27, 2011
| Has anybody been up dreamweaver and martha last week? Shooting for both in a day on Sunday. Avy conds below the loft? Thanks |
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By Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
May 27, 2011
| Climbed Fields Chimney on monday May 23, pretty amazing up there right now. Alexander's looked pretty fat and the Eighth Route definitely looked climbable. Might not last long with this current warming trend.
| Heading into Fields Chimney, May 23, 2011.
Submitted By: Bryan Gilmore on May 27, 2011
| |
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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
May 27, 2011
| Ahhhhhhhh!!!! I can't believe I just jacked my ankle! |
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By JonW
May 27, 2011
| Chacal wrote: Has anybody been up dreamweaver and martha last week? Shooting for both in a day on Sunday. Avy conds below the loft? Thanks
Do you mind posting an update after your climb? Planning on climbing Martha on Monday. Thanks! |
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By jack roberts
May 27, 2011
| WOW! Looks like I need to get up there on monday. |
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By jack roberts
May 27, 2011
| WOW! Looks like I need to get up there on monday. |
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By Chacal
From Vail, CO
May 29, 2011
| JonW wrote: Do you mind posting an update after your climb? Planning on climbing Martha on Monday. Thanks!
So, headed up the Mills Cirque yesterday. Prepare to swim in snow if you get anything else than an alpine start. We started the approach on skis at 6am, and by 9 at the base labm's, now without skis, we were postholing. Heading up to Alexander's chimney decided to abort: lambīs slide had significant snow and would have been nightmarish, let alone the amount of unconsolidated snow up the 1st pitch, I thought would be not worthed, difficult to get past it. Maybe harder climbers find it great, that is my opinion, Field's chimney looked excellent. The good news is that it will be in late into the season (and pretty fat.)
Getting to the base of Martha was a pain, lots of powder! Yes, waist deep powder to the first constriction. From there, somewhat harder snow (very little ice) that we soloed al the way to the top (no mixed conditions at all.) Descended the gully east to the route to retrieve skies from lake. The ski down to the car sucked, particularly from the Mills morraine to the trail junction. (Again, would have been most likely OK if had started way earlier.) So, go up there early and down early and you will enjoy,
East and south facing slopes were having a good deal of point release avlanches in the cirque, so just a heads up with the snow pack. |
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By OReid
From Denver, CO
May 29, 2011
| Climbed Alexander's Chimney today. The only climbable ice is on the first pitch, and that is rotten. Good fun groveling up the snow-covered rock though!
In the pre-dawn light we admired a lot of different ice smears around the longs peak cirque. By noon when we were down, they were all gone. It was VERY warm and sunny up there today, and the snow didn't freeze overnight. Tons of large wet loose slides by afternoon. |
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By JonW
May 31, 2011
| Chacal wrote: So, headed up the Mills Cirque yesterday. Prepare to swim in snow if you get anything else than an alpine start. We started the approach on skis at 6am, and by 9 at the base labm's, now without skis, we were postholing. Heading up to Alexander's chimney decided to abort: lambīs slide had significant snow and would have been nightmarish, let alone the amount of unconsolidated snow up the 1st pitch, I thought would be not worthed, difficult to get past it. Maybe harder climbers find it great, that is my opinion, Field's chimney looked excellent. The good news is that it will be in late into the season (and pretty fat.) Getting to the base of Martha was a pain, lots of powder! Yes, waist deep powder to the first constriction. From there, somewhat harder snow (very little ice) that we soloed al the way to the top (no mixed conditions at all.) Descended the gully east to the route to retrieve skies from lake. The ski down to the car sucked, particularly from the Mills morraine to the trail junction. (Again, would have been most likely OK if had started way earlier.) So, go up there early and down early and you will enjoy, East and south facing slopes were having a good deal of point release avlanches in the cirque, so just a heads up with the snow pack.
Thanks, Chacal. We climbed Martha on Monday. The snow prior to the first constriction was well consolidated and quite firm. Very little ice and very filled in compared to last year. There's probably about 20 feet of ice in total. |
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By Mike Baetz
Jun 2, 2011
| Anyone have updates on conditions in RMNP? Dreamweaver or other? |
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By Mike Hasse
From Lebanon, NH
Jun 2, 2011
| We climbed Martha yesterday (6/1) and found it to be mostly steep snow with two ice steps maybe ten feet high each. It hadn't changed much since the condition reports above, with the major exception that now it's decorated with two twin ropes that I couldn't pull down after doing the rappel =( We chose not to descend the Camel because the postholing would be a nightmare, but it turned out to be an expensive decision. |
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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jun 2, 2011
| Thinking about going up that on Saturday morning. If the ropes are still there I will grab them for you! |
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By Mike Hasse
From Lebanon, NH
Jun 3, 2011
| That would be magnificent :) |
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By Noah8000
From Arvada, CO
Jun 3, 2011
| Oh my, Hallet is looking swwweeeetttt!!!!!To bad I can't get after it in the next couple of days! |
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By Jeff Shafer
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Jun 4, 2011
| Mike Hasse, was on Martha today. I have your ropes. Sent you PM. |
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By Tim Banfield
From Calgary, Alberta
Jun 17, 2011
| | Martha Couloir 13 June.
Submitted By: Tim Banfield on Jun 17, 2011
|
All photos taken 13 June on a climb of Martha Couloir. The ice in Martha's was very hollow and I doubt it will be there much longer. Was able to get in a stubbie just before the crux/top out. I didn't have much faith in it though. |
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