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 ADVANCED
The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

That's What She Said 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 19, 2011

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Half-way up the long arete.

Description 

"I hoped it would be harder"

"That's what she said!"


This line climbs the stunning arete, but due to the slabby nature of the upper left face, the line suffers somewhat from the "climbing near an arete, rather than arete climbing" syndrome common to many Shelf "aretes". As such, the route is not nearly as good or as difficult as it looks. However, there is still some authentic arete climbing in the cruxy lower third, with atleast one slap move, and some fancy arete footwork.

Stick clip the first bolt, then step onto the arete from the boulder. After a few easy moves, tackle the obvious overhang, eventually making a big reach to a poor 2-finger pocket. Bump up the arete, gunning for better pockets, ultimately arriving at a good stance right on the arete, below a small roof. Big but hard-to-see jugs lead over the roof to a no-hands ledge below the third bolt. Clear the easy roof to gain the slab, then cruise easily to the high ledge. Traverse the ledge either left or right to either of the adjacent routes' anchors (easier to clean from Unknown 1).


Location 

Climbs the obvious over-hanging arete left of Apogee Pending.


Protection 

5 bolts, 2BA (shared with Unknown 1). Stick clip recommended. The finish is a bit spicy (on 5.8 or less terrain), but all of the hard moves are well protected. Bring a few finger-sized cams to protect the last 30' if so desired.



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Near the end of the business.
Near the end of the business.
The arete.
The arete.
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