Climb the first 20 feet of Steppin' Stone, exiting the dihedral and turning the arete on the right at a bolt. Cruise up past a downward facing flake and continue easily to a rest and a small right facing ramp/corner. Bust left out of the corner to a splitter finger crack which continues to the anchor. This is the first belay of Desperado, just before the roof. Lower or rap off.
Moving onto the face at the bolt is the 9 crux...pretty insecure and barndoor-ish. Might be easier to step down to a break, then onto the face. Maybe a 9 move in the finger crack up higher.
East face of The Upper Spire
Up to a #2 Camalot. Extra in the yellow alien to .75 Camalot size. Bring yer small/smallest wires for the final finger crack.
Long slings before and on the bolt will minimize a lot of drag and keep your rope off of a rough edge on the arete.
|By Aidan Maguire|
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This route now has it's own direct start. It now stays to the right of the Stepping Stone start. a small flake broke at the crux and is probably now rated 10a. A #3 camalot is handy for the roof after bolts
|By Cam Parry|
From: Calistoga, CA
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
No kidding on the small wires at the top! There is a placement for a blue (#3) Camalot down low - just before pulling over the corner - but all the rest of the gear is smaller. Think wires and 0.75 Camalots or below. Leave the heavy stuff at the base.
|By Darshan Ahluwalia|
From: Petaluma, CA
Oct 13, 2013
Is this route misnamed? Isn't this the "East Face"? It has a scary offwidth at the top.
From: Vacaville Ca.
Oct 14, 2013