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Upper Spire
Routes Sorted
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Arete Route T 
Beast of No Nation T 
Burnt Offerings T 
Char Broiled T 
Crispy Critters TR 
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 
Dot to Dot T 
Fear of Flying T 
Ginger Bread T 
Holy Smoke S 
Jugs Revisited T 
Lesbian Love S 
North Ridge T 
Robert's Aid Crack T 
Smokehouse Brown T 
Steppin' Stone T 
T-Bone T 
Thanksgiving T 
Up for Grabs T 

Thanksgiving 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Scott T on Feb 12, 2011

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Just past the lower (bolted) crux on Thanksgiving.

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the first 20 feet of Steppin' Stone, exiting the dihedral and turning the arete on the right at a bolt. Cruise up past a downward facing flake and continue easily to a rest and a small right facing ramp/corner. Bust left out of the corner to a splitter finger crack which continues to the anchor. This is the first belay of Desperado, just before the roof. Lower or rap off.

Moving onto the face at the bolt is the 9 crux...pretty insecure and barndoor-ish. Might be easier to step down to a break, then onto the face. Maybe a 9 move in the finger crack up higher.

Location 

East face of The Upper Spire

Protection 

Up to a #2 Camalot. Extra in the yellow alien to .75 Camalot size. Bring yer small/smallest wires for the final finger crack.

Long slings before and on the bolt will minimize a lot of drag and keep your rope off of a rough edge on the arete.


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By Aidan Maguire
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route now has it's own direct start. It now stays to the right of the Stepping Stone start. a small flake broke at the crux and is probably now rated 10a. A #3 camalot is handy for the roof after bolts
By Cam Parry
From: Calistoga, CA
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

No kidding on the small wires at the top! There is a placement for a blue (#3) Camalot down low - just before pulling over the corner - but all the rest of the gear is smaller. Think wires and 0.75 Camalots or below. Leave the heavy stuff at the base.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Oct 13, 2013

Is this route misnamed? Isn't this the "East Face"? It has a scary offwidth at the top.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Oct 14, 2013

^^^
No!