Thai Stick  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 30 feet Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] FA:  Robert McGown-1979 Submitted By:  Adam Therneau on Jun 5, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Uber slick rock, cryptic sequence, reachy moves, over in a about thirty seconds...all these things would describe Thai Stick perfectly. Super popular route just right of Classic Crack, mostly because it is the only bolted route on the bottom half of the Red Wall's popular left side. Ascend via polished sidepulls and stemming until reaching the first ledge at twenty feet, at which point the climbing becomes 5.8. This route is very difficult to figure out on the onsight attempt, due to a surplus of unnecessary holds and very low friction to help you pop off. Once wired, it feels rather easy for the grade due to its brevity, particularly if you are tall. Makes for a logical, direct start to the route Critical Mass above it.

Location 

Immediately right of Classic Crack at the Red Wall.

Protection 

2 bolts, and chain anchors. The first bolt is pretty high and it would be advisable to stick clip due to a bad landing.