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Sunshine Wall Routes
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Tezcatlipoca 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Baker
Page Views: 10,298
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on May 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Rick Norman on T-Cat.
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is short, kinda silly, and the climbing is not particularly memorable. However, the approach is a nice hike, with great views, the glade/meadow where this feature is located is a very cute little spot, and the feature itself is a ridiculous shape; a penguin with a blindfold. Maybe it's a labrador puppy. it's very friendly anyway.Approach by hiking up a ledge/stratum from your car. Up and up and up, until you summit the highest point of the ridge. Then contour down (north) and around to enter the penguin's garden.The route begins up a short crack. This is allegedly 5.5, in Bjornstad's book. Hmmmm. You can avoid this by a runout face bit to the right; much more pleasant. I chose the wide crack, and struggled. The final short face is steep, ledgy and fun. See how far you dare step out onto the penguin's bill...Enjoy.


Protection 

A handful of quickdraws and a couple 4 to 5-inch cams for the start.



Photos of Tezcatlipoca Slideshow Add Photo
Tower on the way to Tezcatlipoca
Tower on the way to Tezcatlipoca
view straight down on Jerry Harder enjoying T-cat
view straight down on Jerry Harder enjoying T-cat
The route goes up the backside (not in the photo)
The route goes up the backside (not in the photo)
Lisa Foster on the somewhat awkward chimney start.
Lisa Foster on the somewhat awkward chimney start.
Shameless on the slabby face climbing near the top.
Shameless on the slabby face climbing near the top...
Tezcatlipoca April 29, 2012
Tezcatlipoca April 29, 2012
Comments on Tezcatlipoca Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 21, 2014
By Tradkelly
Jul 5, 2003

And this is located where in the park??? Assume I don't have the guidebook you've listed as a reference. Thanks.

By TuffGong
Jul 27, 2003

Get the guidebook! You will be supporting the climbing community and opening your mind to a world of classic climbs!

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Oct 1, 2003

Yes, of course... Get the guidebook and completely eliminate the purpose of this site. Get a job, man. I support the climbing community as much as I have the opportunity to (mountain clean-ups and the like), but it seems to me the purpose of this site is to provide concise information about climbs in/near Moab. For those of us who don't live there and can't drive there every weekend, a guidebook is hardly a worthy expenditure. Plus, having a print-out from this site and other like it means having something of a souvenir for an on-sight or whathaveyou. And finally TuffGong, you didn't have ANY qualms with posting three routes on the site with beta so far. Why the anxiety/reluctance to help out a fellow cragger/crack-er (no pun intended)?

By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mar 11, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Sorry, I thought Peter Gram wrote out some pretty clear instructions as to how to get to Sunshine Wall. This is not in Arches National Park, it is just outside, immediately north. Simplest thing is to drive 17 (?-I forget exactly) miles north of Moab on 191 to get to the turn-off. The main parking spot is pretty obvious, at the far left end of the wall (the road starts to get rougher after this, and soon becomes real 4x4 after a quarter mile or so, and the hike approach is up the obvious slanting ledgey strata from close to the car up and right, just like it says. You can see the tower when you hike the bottom of the cliff, but you cannot access it from here.

Maybe you don't want to spring for a guidebook, but I'd expect folks to read the Sunshine Wall page with Peter Gram's instructions before demanding more info here. The Visitor Center in Moab will give you a free Utah road map too. Browse the guidebook in Pagan or the Visitor Center and put it back on the shelf. Please, if you expect to get much out of desert climbing, be prepared to have to invest something. Either money in guidebooks, or else some time and effort. This ain't Shelf Road.

Beter to think of this website as another resource for finding and enjoying desert climbs. It's not a guidebook. I don't think it's a replacement for a guidebook.

By RoadTripRyan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 11, 2005

When I did this, I placed a #4 Camalot at the top of the crack, a couple of TCU's in a horizontal crack below the drilled piton, then a quickdraw for the piton.

Fun tower. Great setting.

-RoadtripRyan

By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
Oct 10, 2007

Funny "handful of quickdraws" seeing there's only one bolt. Though the one bolt protects the route pretty well.

By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
May 16, 2010

easy to get to, easy to find the start to the approach. stick close to the drainage on approach and decent. a bit confusing upon arrival because you can not see the overhang. your looking directly at the route. can be done with 3 or 4 peaces. a big hex, a small cam, and a draw. #1 camalot optional. circle around south to good drainages to enter garden. new red sling as of this date on top, with nice bolts. this thing doe's not see a lot of accents. the booze bottle for the summit register was a nice touch. mando for the oddball tower rat or someone looking to scoop an easy one.

By RIck Norman
From: Glenwood springs, co
Apr 16, 2011

Make sure you know where you are going before hand. Took me a bit to find... excellent view once on top and a great lead climb for a beginner like myself.

By Eric Odenthal
Mar 10, 2012

Finally ticked this cool looking tower. I parked at the naked women petroglyph, hiked 4 miles all the way around the bend, it's further than you think, then hiked half way back on the top. Made my way down into the canyon, felt way the hell out there. It's really short and I brought way to much gear. I rope soloed it, brought a #2,#3 camalot for the anchor at the bottom, worked my way up the OW, the then placed a .3 C3, clipped the bolt and was at the top. Other towers in the area look really good, and the climbs at the sunshine wall are fun. 8 miles total for 40' of climbing. Total adventure and great views the entire way. How much do you like hiking in sand??

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun climb and actually worth the hike, especially since it's such a nice hike. Watch the Crypto!

Have to agree with the guidebook on this one, definately the easiest offwidth/chimney I've ever climbed. The friction in the crack and on the slab is excellent. The crux at the top is a little technical so I'll split the difference. ;-)

By TLob
Mar 21, 2014

If you enjoy beautiful hikes this is a must do. The climb is okay but the formation is awesome! In order to avoid crushing cryptobiotic soil on the bench as you head up stay left in the wash until you reach the uppermost point of the hike then scramble over the ridge and down to the "squat tower" in the description.