Start up a thin seam to the right of Prototype (Sugar, 5.10, is located between Prototype and Bolt Talk). Strenuous moves lead up through the seam to slightly easier climbing above. The holds get thin again at the top. Look for a rounded knob up and to the right that leads to more small holds and the anchors.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Apr 21, 2007
Maybe I'm missing something, but this one seems to be poorly bolted. Falling in the middle of the route will put you right back at the belay with a nasty fall. But it does seem to be a one move wonder, with the difficulty being at the top.
Bolt count in the description is off, Bolt Talk has 6 bolts and Fixe sport anchors. Matt you may be thinking of Unnatural to the right which does have only 4 bolts and could seem runoutish.
This seemed like a really good warm up with climbing that got progressively harder as you got higher on the wall.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO May 4, 2009
Thanks, Lee. I think you are right - it's been a while since I have been on any of these.
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