Palo Duro Canyon State Park

Climbing Access Open - Keep a low profile. MORE INFO >>> Climbing in the canyon is legal, but please maintain a low profile. Please leave no trace to minimize the chances of the park closing to climbers. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Palo Duro Canyon is the second largest canyon in the country. At more than 800 feet deep and 120 miles long the canyon is a great place to escape the seemingly featureless landscape of the Texas panhandle. Landmarks such as the Lighthouse, Capitol Peak, Castle Peak, and Sorenson Point capture the imaginations of visitors and inspire the cherokee indians of old to come alive within the minds of tourists.

The canyon hosts arguably some of the best mountain biking in Texas. The Lighthouse trail is by far the most popular and makes an excellent day hike that should not be missed. Hiking in the canyon can be very exciting if you make it that way. The clay type dirt is easily excavated by torrents of water leaving the canyon with dozens of caves for the bold explorer. Scrambling in the canyon is sure to give a rush as all the footing is generally loose, as my good friend said, "Everything in the canyon moves!"

Palo Duro Canyon is pretty much the only local crag in the Amarillo/Canyon area. Rock quality is generally poor sandstone and holds are always likely to break. I'm no geologist, but there are really two types of climbable rock at the Canyon. The first is a very brittle and rough conglomerate type sandstone found in the boulder fields and a few select cliffs. The second is a much softer sandstone found on most of the cliffs in the canyon.

Most of the climbing is bouldering though there is also some top roping and trad to be found. Hueco Point and Horseshoe Cliff being the best.

Getting There 

A short 30 min drive from Amarillo makes the canyon easily accessed.
Follow I-27 south past Canyon and take exit 217 and turn left. Continue 10 miles on 217 to the park entrance (be prepared to pay $4 per person). Once past the gate, continue on what is now the very windy Park RD 5 down the big hill into the canyon. See individual areas for further approach information.
Approaches are generally short and in the 5-10 minute range.

The Classics

Featured Route For Palo Duro Canyon State Park

High on Fungi V6-  TX : Palo Duro Canyon State Park : ... : Mushroom Boulder

This is arguably the best problem in the canyon. Sit/campus start on the right side on two good pockets. After a campus move or two, move out left to the two good jugs, from there throw up to a sloper rail on the face. Traverse left then either dyno or reach high for an obvious pocket (crux) then climb straight up and top out. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX