The main canyon houses the largest number of climbs and is where most people hang out. A lot of groups come here just to rappell this wall because the top is so easy to access. Routes range from 20 to 40 feet. There are a couple decent cracks that correspond with some of the best routes at Mineral Wells here. The routes in the middle are in the 5.9 - 5.10 range and the routes near the ends tend to be easier.
This wall is in the shade most of the day, but it also doesn't get any breeze.
Getting There
Follow the trail from the parking lot past the overlook and down the stairs. Stay left at the fork and it will be the long wall on the left after the scenic overlook in the obvious canyon.