Russ after the improbable traverse on the second p...
Description
P1 - Start on stack of boulders and climb up 20 feet to first bolt. Climbing up and left of the arete using good features and slinging hueco's for protection before climbing past 2nd bolt and a small playing card size brass plaque. After the memorial plaque traverse right 15' to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.
P2 - Looking to the right from the ledge it looks as if the arete feature drops into no-mans-land and improbable path. But yes, this is correct. Move up and right from belay to a crack which can be protected using 3" camalot then drop your hands down and move over to a large flake that is towards the front of the buttress. Just above this flake/pillar is a bolt with well featured and amazing climbing ahead to the summit. The guidebook states something about a thin crack, which I don't recall seeing.
No rap stations so you'll be walking down.
Location
30' right of the Tree route on the left shoulder on Indecent Exposure buttress. Look for large stack of blocks at the start and a bolt out right. Anchor your belayer as a fall getting to the first bolt will probably finish you both off. A large nut should do it.
Protection
2 draws, 2-4 long slings and a medium size cam. P1 has bolted anchors atop a ledge, summit anchor is make/sling your own.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Apr 21, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
May want to stay off this route for a few weeks until nesting season is over! There is a nesting pair of hawks on a ledge in the middle of the first pitch. I did not see them until I got swooped when I came within about 5 feet of their nest. It wasn't bad enough that I was about 40 feet run out past my last piece of gear! It scared the hell out of me. It circled and screamed at me as I downclimbed the route all the way to the first bolt at the bottom. A bit unnerving to say the least.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Oct 17, 2007
Great exposure and fun climbing. Don't get sucked over towards the arete on the first pitch during it's 100+ run out. The second bolt is located high (like way high) and left of the arete by at least 15-20 feet.
Coming off of the belay you'll see 3 shiny and newer looking bolts that head up and left. Although enticing, I believe those lead to the headwall .11X variation.
~Susan
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Oct 17, 2007 rating: 5.9+ PG13
Cool-Ass-Hell! Go do it... just make sure your second doesn't whip on the traverse or you just might never see her again..... Communication with the leader on the summit will be minimal to non-existant. If you pop, you might be hanging there for a while. Make a plan before you go for the second pitch.
Indecent Exposure Buttress
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