This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Hueco Tanks page.
This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the North Mountain page.
Description
A clean line following a thin crack. It starts up a thin seam for about 15 ft. The crux is traversing 10 ft to the right to reach the bottom of another thin finger crack. It is mostly a mental crux, requiring good composure as you face a near groundfall. A few moves up the finger crack and the climbing becomes easier although still steep. Big huecos to either side of the crack provide rest holds and gear-placement stances. The crack ends by petering out next to a huge chimney. A very exposed move bridges the chimney at an obvious weakness, and traverses right for a few feet before climbing up to a ledge/bush and a bolted anchor.
An alternate start (also 5.10) is to climb the face 4 ft to the left of the chimney to a bolt 15 ft off the ground, and then make a few moves to the left to reach the upper thin crack.
Some delicate climbing involved, fun exposed moves, and good gear makes this route a worthy tick.
Location
Located on the cakewalk buttress to the left of a large chimney (Bitchin Chimney). Two-rope rappel from anchor, or finish up another route and walk-off.
Protection
Small wires and cams. A large wire or tricam can protect the exposed chimney move. Use long slings on gear near the chimney.
Central Wall
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