This area has access issues. Please read the note available on the Hueco Tanks page.
This area has access issues. Please read the note available on the North Mountain page.
BETA PHOTO: Malice Area at the Central Wall.
Description
The large wall on the west side of North Mountain. Scope it out as you drive into the park. The central wall is the section between Split Boulder and the huge corner with the tree in it.
Pretty good intro to the Hueco roped routes. Right off the Malice Boulder, jungle gym your way up big deep huecos to the first bolt (about 25' up), then move left and up the rounded arete past seven more bolts, working huecos and good edges. Head up and right at the last bolt to get to the two bolt anchor. There are some pretty good stretches between bolts on this route, so climb carefully!...[more]
North Mountain is one of the greatest climbing areas in the country for the 5.9/10b climber. The 11s look great too but I can't say first hand. Leaders should be solid at trad since bolt routes are sporty not sport climbs. I have climber over 60 days on North Mountain and loved them all. There is not really a bad climb on the wall. Now that park has restrictions its a ghost town. Most climbers boulder so you can have North Mountain to yourself. Window Pain, Sea of Holes and Indescent Exposure all rate an honest Mega-classic rating.