Daily Dick Dose 

FA:  Jim Karn Type:  Boulder Consensus:  V7 [details] Views: 328 page views Submitted By: LeeAB on Mar 31, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: This is the short person beta for the start.

Description 

Start with both hands on the rail.

Normal Beta: Throw your left foot on a small sharp edge on a vertical section of rock. Throw your left hand out to catch the crimp half way between the starting hold and the big undercling. Match feet and backstep, throw across for the jug undercling. As you swing out make sure to keep the landing gear up or you will dab.
Shorty Beta: Start with both hands and possibly a healhook on the rail. Move out left to a small crimp gaston and rise off of your right heal to the crimp half way between the starting rail and the jug undercling with your right hand. Match feet and go left to a pinch near the undercling then into the undercling itself with your right hand.

Once in the undercling step on the edge and cross your right hand over to a hold above the lip. Toehook in the undercling and make a couple of moves up the face. then step out and top out.

Location
On the left side of the low roof that you walk by on your way to the Trac II boulder. Starting off of a low somewhat sloping rail near the back of the roof.

Protection 

The landing is a bit wierd, there is a deep channel that runs beneth the problem so while it is difficult to keep your feet from hitting in the first place it is still a good idea to fold a pad in half to fill this channel then lay another pad over the top to flatten everything out.