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Dragon Fly 

V5

   

FA: Mike Head
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V5 [details]
Length: 15 feet
Views: 649 page views

Submitted By: LeeAB on Apr 5, 2006


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  • Some areas require a guide.
  • East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only

  • Mark? Setting up for the gaston to gaston crux, or...


    Description 

    Once and still considered a mega-classic. Follow the left angling flake crack with good holds that are quite spaced and bad feet to its end on a monster jug. Make a huge move out left to an OK hold, heal hook right and go right hand to a gaston. Then swing the feet left to another heal and go to a left hand gaston, step up and top out.

    Alternately, go the the right hand gaston with the left hand as a side pull and make a big move straight up the blunt prow over a worse landing for a slightly harder and more direct finish. Seems to be rarely done, but it is actually quite good especially if you've done the original finish multiple times.

    Location
    Just left of Dry Dock around the corner following the sweet left arching flake/crack.


    Protection 

    crash pads and spotters, if you do the right finish you may want a few more pads as the landing zone then includes the rock shelf that everyone tends to sit on behind the problem.



    Comments on Dragon Fly Add Comment
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    By Joe Collins
    Nov 22, 2007

    2 stars??? C'mon, this is one of the best boulder problems on the planet.