Ben trying hard not to swing off the laybacks on S...
Description
Some slabby face moves lead to a powerful undercling, then a BIG reach or deadpoint to the base of a beautiful, but short, arching fingercrack layback flake.
This route got an X in the original guidebook, although the crux is pretty protectable. The techy smears in the upper half make it a pretty heady lead, though.
Location
On the front side of Motorboat Rock, between two moderate cracks.
Protection
stoppers, tcu's, and a red camalot for the bottom. For an anchor you can use a variety of cams from .75 camalot down to fingers sizes.
I led this in 2005 on 3 pieces of gear (hand size in the undercling, small cam and a stopper above, then whatever for anchor.) and no groundfall potential. just hard to place gear while laybacking.
By Hank Caylor From: Eldorado Springs, CO Jul 17, 2008
Scott Harris did the FA, and yes, by todays standard it is not much of an X rated route. Still heady as you said and a great job by ya'll anyways.
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