As the name implies, Middle Crack is the centerpiece of the Triple Cracks and is located between Owl and Becky's Cracks. Middle Crack is an excellent climb, and a must do for any E-Rock visitor. The start is more of a flake with good lieback moves than a crack. The crux comes early - about 10-15 feet up, the crack curves up and left, leaving a small 'bulge' on the right (protects well with a #2 Camalot). There is a second, smaller 'bulge' above the crux. Continue up the crack as it goes from fists to hands and eventually to fingers. The climbing gets easier as you get higher. Belay/rap from anchors at the top (single rope rap). Great route.
Coming from Colorado, I have to say in "Clintinesque" speak that Texas climbing is what it is. But this is a very nice pitch and like many routes at E-Rock, stout for the grade. It would be 9-, at least at many Colorado areas. You can jam the first part if you know how, rather than layback it. Watch the top part for a fall as it is run-out, and if anyone knows a good way off of this other than the long walk, post a comment.
If you set the belay up from the top of this route, in the big "Crevice" as the Dome Driver's Manual calls it, then just exit out of the Crevice towards a tree (Climber's Left). Just to the climber's right of the tree is a set of Metolius rap anchors (essentially, these anchors are at the top of Grass Crack). A 60 meter rope easily reaches the ground, a 50 meter probably would as well, but I've never tried it.
I would agree it is a stiff 8 or 9-. It is substantially easier after the initial bulge though weather done as a crack or layback. I found some descent nut placements higher. Convention is to traverse from any of the climbs to the grass crack bolts if you are comfortable or else you'll have to go over the top on 4th class.
By Craig Childre From: Lubbock, Texas Dec 5, 2007 rating: 5.8
IMO a solid 5.8 for Enchanted Rock. I think it is sandbagging to think it 5.9. Though, my buddy decked during his onsight attempt of this route, blowing off on the opening moves. Then last month he knocked off his first 10d, so who really knows for sure.
Triple Cracks Sanctuary
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