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East Face of Buzzard's Roost
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Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go) 

5.10b PG13

   

FA: Robert Price
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 40 feet
Views: 109 page views

Submitted By: Joshua Merriam on Jun 28, 2007


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Description 

A pebble pinching slabby bolted face. Balancy movement.


Location 

a few feet to the right of the hand crack (Little Feat) on the upper East side of buzzards roost


Protection 

3? bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is bad fall potential at the second bolt.



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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2007

Last time I got on this, it still had deacking potential while clipping, has it been retroed?

By patrick wild
Jul 9, 2007

I did this route 'bout a year ago and it seemed to me that the hardware was the original.
You could deck clipping the second bolt with an arms length of rope...
But, the stance is good. The move to establish the clipping stance is is a bit spooky and a fall could pummel the belayer if someone isn't paying attention.
If it hasn't been retroed in the past year I would leave it as is. You couldn't ask for an easier TR set up to prepare for the redpoint.