On the right hand side of the big roof. Work your way up the low angle face to a big prow on the side of the roof and pull up into the honeycomb holds, then work right along a crack to the chains. The direct start is 9+/10a and the right start maintains 5.9. Awesome route. The overhang moves are not hard, but can be scary if this is your limit.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Jan 3, 2008
If memory serves correctly (and I have to dig as the last time I did this was probably well before 2003), there is a large block shaped like a piece of pizza that should be treated with care - it's been there forever, but looks like it could fall anytime as it was separated along three edges.