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Texas
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Texas 


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Location: 30.2875, -97.7261 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 23, 2006
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"Fear of Flying" at Enchanted Rock

Description of Texas 

James Crump, the "Godfather" of Texas climbing says, "Texas is BIG! Really big". It is faster to drive from Boulder, CO to Salt Lake City, UT than it is to drive from Enchanted Rock, TX to Hueco Tanks, TX. Fortunately for us though, Texas is virtually jam packed with different types of rock. All this rock just happens to be spread throughout a massive State, so we get an undeserved reputation for being flat.

From the Syenite/Ironrock of Hueco Tanks to the Limestone bluffs of the Central Texas Hill Country and the splitter Pink Granite of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area. Even the Dallas area is adjacent to many fine areas. Texas definitely has it all, especially if you count the Western border with Mexico which is just a massive long wall of limestone, largely unexplored. Speaking of Mexico, Texas is a very convenient launch point for many World class climbing destinations both developed and undiscovered in this magnificent Country as well.

Always be prepared for an adventure when climbing in the "Lone Star State". Most of the State is privately owned and negotiations for climbing are not always welcome. A polite attitude can go a long way.


1,579 Total Routes


['4 Stars',113],['3 Stars',641],['2 Stars',586],['1 Star',163],['Bomb',8]
['<=5.6',48],['5.7',59],['5.8',103],['5.9',127],['5.10',238],['5.11',188],['5.12',74],['5.13',20],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',140],['V2-3',246],['V4-5',146],['V6-7',94],['V8-9',72],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',27],['>=V14',2]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Texas:
The Melon Patch   V0 4     Boulder   North Mountain : Scary Boulder
The Maiden   V0 4     Boulder, 35'   East Mountain : Maiden Gully
Ghetto Simulator   V2 5+     Boulder   North Mountain : Ghetto Simulator
Nobody Here Gets Out Alive   V2 5+     Boulder   North Mountain : The Grenade
Sign of the Cross   V3 6A     Boulder   North Mountain : Sign of the Cross
T-Bone Shuffle   V4 6B     Boulder   North Mountain : The Morgue
Moonshine Roof (center)   V4 6B     Boulder, 25'   East Mountain : Moonshine Roof
Lobsterclaw, AKA:Mr. Negative   V5 6C     Boulder   North Mountain : The New Meadow
Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   East Mountain : Dragon's Den
See Spot Run   V6 7A PG13     Boulder, 25'   North Mountain : The Big Time
Baby Face   V7 7A+     Boulder   North Mountain : Trac II
Mushroom Roof   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder
Cave Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Sweat   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : News Wall
Cave Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 100'   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Eight Flake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Stranger Than Friction   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Main Dome : The Shield
Sea of Holes   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 2 pitches, 350'   North Mountain : Central Wall
Fear of Flying   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Liposuction   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Reimer's Ranch : Sex Cave
Browse More Classics in Texas

Featured Route For Texas
Into the upper crux.

Green Slime vs. Bag Of Devouring 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  TX : Monster Rock : Dungeons and Dragons Wall &...
This climb is a really fun and tricky to onsight! A fun lower crux gives way to easier climbing and an upper crux guards the anchors. A Monster Rock must-do!...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Photos of Texas Slideshow Add Photo
Be careful out there!
Be careful out there!
Georgetown Limestone
Georgetown Limestone
Little feat 5.9 <br />at Enchanted Rock <br />by sunrise
Little feat 5.9
at Enchanted Rock
by sunrise
Not the best photo, but this is the view from the top of Deep Prok.  Cheap Wine Wall and the Devils Slide are in the lower right corner, the Backside trail starts in the lower left corner.
Not the best photo, but this is the view from the ...
Lance on the Lonesome Wasp boulder in Palo Duro Canyon
Lance on the Lonesome Wasp boulder in Palo Duro Ca...
Texas Crash Pad
Texas Crash Pad
Silo climbing near Dallas. <br />Photo by Todd Gordon.
Silo climbing near Dallas.
Photo by Todd Gordon.
One of the Triple Cracks at E-Rock
One of the Triple Cracks at E-Rock
Leadon Meneke on a deep water solo in my back yard.  Note the hanging ice on the left side.
Leadon Meneke on a deep water solo in my back yard...
Comments on Texas Add Comment
Show which comments
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jan 24, 2007

Hueco Tanks In touble??

I got an e-mail from a friend
HERE's THE LINK

By kyber
From: Portland
Sep 29, 2008

killing time: austin google maps of climbing areas:

maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=115373301781539628600.000>>>

By Corey Morris
From: Fort Hood, TX
Aug 25, 2011

Moving to Ft. Hood soon...looking for partners...I'm 39 and have own gear...be great to run into some other climbers.

By Andre
Sep 16, 2012

Am heading to EP for work a few days and would like to check out Heuco. I heard that the park gate closes at 6 pm. Are there any areas one can still access for climbing or bouldering after 6 pm without issues, if one were to park outside the gate?