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Maverick Buttress
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Texas Two Step 
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Texas Two Step 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler?
Page Views: 1,965
Submitted By: Hill on Mar 21, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Photo taken by Jeff Bevan. There is a nice rest a...

Description 

Texas Two Step is a very good route and possibly the easiest lead at Maverick Buttress. It's located about 200 feet to the left of Hot Toddy and starts on top of some large boulders. The route begins in a right face corner with a hand crack that leads to some great step like features for the feet on the face. Staying in the same crack, it becomes a left facing corner and the angle eases back. Jam away until the crack gets too wide and finish with some exciting moves to a good stance. Descent: Rap 70' to the boulders

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Protection 

3 #2 camalots, 3 #3 camalots and at least 1 #3.5 and #4 camalots. It gets wide up top so if you have more big pieces bring the



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March, 2002
BETA PHOTO: March, 2002
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By J. Buhl
May 6, 2003

A very good route that gradually runs from tight hands to fist. I have relatively small hands so I was doing hand stacks at the top. The gear can run from #1 camalot to #3.5 or #4 camalot. As of 5-4-2003 the anchor slings should be replaced as they are a bit of a rats nest - unfortunately I didn't have my usual load of spare webbing.

By Frances Fierst
Administrator
From: Manila, Philippines
Nov 9, 2004

For gear, I placed a .75 camalot off the ground, 2 #1s, 2 #2s, 2 #3s, 2 #3.5s , and the top can take a #4 if you want to drag it along. Calling this the easiest lead on Maverick may hold true if you have big hands. But since I have small hands, the whole second half of this climb was fists and stacks. Not real easy for me, but one hell of a work out.

By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Mar 23, 2009

Fun, interesting climb...that starts thin hands (#1 camalot) and widens to hands...and then fists (take the #4 camalot). It does offer a nice rest where it changes corners, so I would call it 10a, but I was following on TR. Certainly not harder than 10b.

A good climb if you don't have more than 3 cams of a given size.

NOTE: I replaced the anchor slings on 3/22/09. New slings and 3 oval biners. HOWEVER: the 2 bolts are slightly old 3/8", with loose hangers, a third bolt would be nice.

By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Nov 28, 2012

Frances Fierst's gear recommendation is spot on. I took more #3's since I don't have #3.5's. Took a #4 as well. Glad to have had it. Mark's anchor is holding up just fine, but the bolts need to be replaced. The left bolt was loose and sticking out of the rock about 1/4". Both bolts are rusty.