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Maverick Buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

Texas Two Step 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler?
Page Views: 2,424
Submitted By: Hill on Mar 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Photo taken by Jeff Bevan. There is a nice rest a...

Description 

Texas Two Step is a very good route and possibly the easiest lead at Maverick Buttress. It's located about 200 feet to the left of Hot Toddy and starts on top of some large boulders. The route begins in a right face corner with a hand crack that leads to some great step like features for the feet on the face. Staying in the same crack, it becomes a left facing corner and the angle eases back. Jam away until the crack gets too wide and finish with some exciting moves to a good stance. Descent: Rap 70' to the boulders

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Protection 

3 #2 camalots, 3 #3 camalots and at least 1 #3.5 and #4 camalots. It gets wide up top so if you have more big pieces bring the


Photos of Texas Two Step Slideshow Add Photo
Self-portrait at the top of the ole Texas Two Step...
Self-portrait at the top of the ole Texas Two Step...
March, 2002
BETA PHOTO: March, 2002
Peter Metcalf givin it the ole two step
Peter Metcalf givin it the ole two step
The steps to the left help make the start mellow. ...
The steps to the left help make the start mellow. ...
The great Jim Donini mugging it up
The great Jim Donini mugging it up

Comments on Texas Two Step Add Comment
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By J. Buhl
May 6, 2003

A very good route that gradually runs from tight hands to fist. I have relatively small hands so I was doing hand stacks at the top. The gear can run from #1 camalot to #3.5 or #4 camalot. As of 5-4-2003 the anchor slings should be replaced as they are a bit of a rats nest - unfortunately I didn't have my usual load of spare webbing.
By Frances Fierst
Administrator
From: Munchweiler, Germany
Nov 9, 2004

For gear, I placed a .75 camalot off the ground, 2 #1s, 2 #2s, 2 #3s, 2 #3.5s , and the top can take a #4 if you want to drag it along. Calling this the easiest lead on Maverick may hold true if you have big hands. But since I have small hands, the whole second half of this climb was fists and stacks. Not real easy for me, but one hell of a work out.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Mar 23, 2009

Fun, interesting climb...that starts thin hands (#1 camalot) and widens to hands...and then fists (take the #4 camalot). It does offer a nice rest where it changes corners, so I would call it 10a, but I was following on TR. Certainly not harder than 10b.

A good climb if you don't have more than 3 cams of a given size.

NOTE: I replaced the anchor slings on 3/22/09. New slings and 3 oval biners. HOWEVER: the 2 bolts are slightly old 3/8", with loose hangers, a third bolt would be nice.
By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Nov 28, 2012

Frances Fierst's gear recommendation is spot on. I took more #3's since I don't have #3.5's. Took a #4 as well. Glad to have had it. Mark's anchor is holding up just fine, but the bolts need to be replaced. The left bolt was loose and sticking out of the rock about 1/4". Both bolts are rusty.
By klane
Mar 23, 2015

Really fun moves right off the deck--and the ledges to the left make it really fun and stress free. The real challenge is at the widest part of the crack near the top--good technique will get you through! Be prepared to do some hand stacks and fist jams. Also, awesome location on the wall.
By michael s...
From: Asheville, NC
Apr 30, 2015

On 4/29/15 we climbed this thing and noticed he left anchor bolt is loose. You can wiggle it with your fingers. Yikes.
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