Texas Flakes is a great beginner's route located in the center section of the Smorgasbord Wall. It climbs a series of large, left angling flakes to a spacious ledge with a tree. There is good protection all along the route. Bring some long slings to reduce rope drag, and beware of the rope getting caught behind one of the flakes. Fun, easy climb.
Cams up to a #3 Camalot. Long slings are helpful. Two bolt anchor at the top.
|By Joshua Merriam|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2007
for the grade, you just can't beat this route
I personally make a point to climb it every time I go to E-rock
Mar 3, 2008
I side more with a 5.5 rating. There are two sections you just have to lay back the flake and use friction on the face. The top section also will not protect with a #3 as the beta says. You need at least a #5, but it can be run out fairly easily.
|By Stan Jones|
From: Benbrook, TX
Mar 12, 2009
I put a #7 Tri-Cam behind the top flake, but it pulled out with a single-length sling. Probably needed a triple-length.
Feb 8, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
The novice leader should be aware that the top will be run out without a large piece and a long runner. Also, the route traverses to the left, so you have to think about protecting your second.