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Smorgasbord Wall
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Texas Flakes T 

Texas Flakes 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Page Views: 2,065
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Pearl snap shirt casual on Texas Flakes

Description 

Texas Flakes is a great beginner's route located in the center section of the Smorgasbord Wall. It climbs a series of large, left angling flakes to a spacious ledge with a tree. There is good protection all along the route. Bring some long slings to reduce rope drag, and beware of the rope getting caught behind one of the flakes. Fun, easy climb.

Protection 

Cams up to a #3 Camalot. Long slings are helpful. Two bolt anchor at the top.


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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2007

for the grade, you just can't beat this route

I personally make a point to climb it every time I go to E-rock
By CalebSimpson
Mar 3, 2008

I side more with a 5.5 rating. There are two sections you just have to lay back the flake and use friction on the face. The top section also will not protect with a #3 as the beta says. You need at least a #5, but it can be run out fairly easily.
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Mar 12, 2009

I put a #7 Tri-Cam behind the top flake, but it pulled out with a single-length sling. Probably needed a triple-length.
By Superclimber
Feb 8, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

The novice leader should be aware that the top will be run out without a large piece and a long runner. Also, the route traverses to the left, so you have to think about protecting your second.